Could anyone let me know if there is anything special about changing the rotors/pads on my 96. I don't want to start a project that I can't finish or do it safely.
Thanks, Ed

 

The brakes are very easy, you should be fine.

 

The fronts are fairly simple. Before starting, use a "turkey baster" to remove about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Because you wil have to push the pistons in the calipers back into their bores, some fluid will be returned to the reservoir. If it's full, the fluid can spill over.

The calipers are held in place by a pin with a "C-clip" at one end. Use some needle-nose pliers to remove the clip by pulling straight out, then slid the pin out. The caliper will lift out and the pads can be removed with your fingers.

The front rotors can be removed after you remove the caliper mounting bracket. There are two large bolts that hold the bracket to the steering knuckle. IIRC, the heads are 21 or 22mm so you need a large socket. These bolts are torqued to about 166 ft-lbs so you need a 1/2" drive socket with a failry long breaker bar to loosen the bolts.

Once the bolts are removed, the bracket lifts off. Then simply slide off the old rotor and slide the new one on. Make sure you clean the rotor surface with non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner. You don't want any oil or grease to contaminate the new pads.

Clean the threads of the big bolts with a wire brush to remove any traces of the old threadlocker. You should use some Loctite "Blue" on the threads when installing the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 166 +/- 15 ft-lbs of torque. Push the caliper piston back into the caliper body, and replace the calipers with the new pads inside. Slide the pin back in to hold the caliper down and re-attach the C-clip.

The rears are similar except the calipers are attached with two small bolts that hold guide pins. Remove the small bolts, and lif the caliper away. You may have to use a large C-clamp to push the piston back.

The caliper bracket has two bolts similar to the fronts. Remove them and pull the bracket. Swap rotors like the fronts. Clean the bolt threads and apply the blue loctite and reinstall the brackets. Tighten the bolts to 70 ft-lbs.

Place the new rear pads into the caliper so that the springs on top fit thru the gap in the top of the caliper. These have to be in place as you slide the caliper over the rotor. Clean the small caliper mounting bolts, apply threadlocker and torque to 26 ft-lbs for the upper bolt and 16 ft-lbs for the lower bolt.

Refill the master cylinder with fresh fluid, start the engine and apply the brakes a few times to get the caliper pistons to come back out against the new pads.

Depending on the pads you get, you should bed the pads. This is a simple operation; make about 5-6 complete stops from 30-35 using medium pedal effort. Then make 3-4 stops from 40-50 with firm pressure. Let the brakes cool for 15-30 minutes or so and you are good to go (or stop )

 

Thank you very much for the info. I'm sure it will help alot.
Ed

 

Did mine over the winter and found it very easy. No problems. Get the FSM or a Haynes. Go for it!!

 

c4cruiser - that was an outstanding write-up, thank you! It's better than the service manual. I printed your instructions, and will have them guide me when I do my J55 upgrade.

Thanks for the great info.

 

If the bleeder screws open easily, open the bleeder as you compress the pistons and relieve the fluid that way. Then tighten as you are finishing compressing the pistons. Backflowing the fluid thru the master will work but is not great for the seals/valves in the master. Thats how I was taught back in the dark ages, unless things have changed since then.

 

While you are in there doing all that work, flush out all the brake fluid with fresh stuff.

 

If I keep saving these gems to my HD I'm gonna run outta space soon

 

While getting new tires attention was brought to me that my rear brakes were almost gone. Wanted $170.00 with new rotors. I felt it was worth it so i had it done.

 

Do you all trust most tire shops (ie Big O Tires) to do your brake work or is this something I should take to a Chevy dealer?
Kim