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I've posted about this. Take a trip, throw an egr code. 2 days later, replace the catback with a Magnaflow. The car runs like crap after that. I mean really bad, bucking, and stalling. I drive it to work 2 days later, still running bad. A guy at work recommends a mechanic who does work on the side. I take it to him on Saturday. The car ran so bad at first I put the flashers on and wasn't sure I'd make it. As we went along it ran better. A 12 mile trip, get it there, hand it over.
So, today I hear that the car has been fine. He can't find a problem with it. I can't tell you how irritating that is. What the heck is going on?
Have you determined that there isn't something wrong with the EGR Valve or the channels? What code are you getting?
Well, I saw the code, and looked at what it took to replace the egr, and decided to have this guy diagnose and fix it. He has experience, tools and time. I don't have much of any of those 3.
To his credit, he didn't just start replacing things. A dealer definately would have replaced something by now. But, he didn't find anything wrong. I'm going to pick it up tonight, but now I'm really confused.
Well from my experience with my car, it doesnt take much to throw these cars out of whack. Plain and simple, the electronic systems on these cars is complete crap.
It sounds like you have an intermittent problem so maybe you should try driving it around with it hooked up to a computer so when it starts running like crap you can see whats happening.
Well from my experience with my car, it doesnt take much to throw these cars out of whack. Plain and simple, the electronic systems on these cars is complete crap.
It sounds like you have an intermittent problem so maybe you should try driving it around with it hooked up to a computer so when it starts running like crap you can see whats happening.
You mean a scan tool through the aldl? Or software on a laptop?
Well from my experience with my car, it doesnt take much to throw these cars out of whack. Plain and simple, the electronic systems on these cars is complete crap.
It sounds like you have an intermittent problem so maybe you should try driving it around with it hooked up to a computer so when it starts running like crap you can see whats happening.
Dude they weren't always crap, the cars are just old.
The code scanners for the old system OBD1 are not very good.
They work and you can't fix an emissions problem without one, but the OBD2 scanners are much simpler to use and they're more accurate in my opinion.
These cars are old, old cars have problems. If you can't fix it yourself eventually the cost of repairs will exceed the value of the car.
It costs the same to have a 07 worked on as it does a 85, 07's are in warranty.
Theres two rules when it comes to owning a car.
1. Pay the bank
2. Pay the mechanic
Buy a manual and a scanner, your wallet and your car will thank you.
dale did you replace fuel filter also does it run bad after its warm or all the time if its runs ok when cold might be your ign, control module in the distb.
A bad EGR valve, among other things, could give you the symptoms you're having. But you'd have to check it to see if it's stuck, clogged up and capabale of holding vacuum. Not sure if you can get your finger at it without pulling the plenum. Keep in mind a bad EGR valve does Not set off a trouble code.
Your mechanic is a tard, what code did it give you when it was acting up ? He doesn't know how to check an EGR valve and he's a tech
If you have a code 32 I would test the EGR system first. It may or may not be the EGR though it could be a number of things throwing the code 32 but that is where I would start.
dale did you replace fuel filter also does it run bad after its warm or all the time if its runs ok when cold might be your ign, control module in the distb.
Replaced the fuel filter just after I got it, in March.
It runs worst when it's left out in the heat, but hasn't run for a long time. So, the motor isn't hot, but the car is... if that makes sense?
Your mechanic is a tard, what code did it give you when it was acting up ? He doesn't know how to check an EGR valve and he's a tech
If you have a code 32 I would test the EGR system first. It may or may not be the EGR though it could be a number of things throwing the code 32 but that is where I would start.
This is my first dealing with the guy, he's a good guy. He's a tech in a shop where the oldest cars they get are about 95s. He does this on the side at home. I consider it a favor and don't hold him to the standard I'd hold a dealer who is beating my wallet up.
He cleaned the TB, checked the injectors, put a scan tool on it, drove it, and it seemed good. I picked it up today, and it's never run better. Go figure. He charged me $25.
He did find one thing, there is a tube for the egr where there is a sensor. There's a wire coming off that sensor, it's broken off. He tried to solder it back on, but it wouldn't hold. Not sure what the sensor does, or if it could be causing this problem.
The good news is the car runs good.
The bad news is I don't quite trust it right now.
That broken wire is what's triggering your intermittent code 32. I'm assuming that's what you were getting? SES light coming on once the car's warmed up and eventually going off?
It's an EGR temperature sensor. From what I've read on the forum and personal experience, they are notorious for breaking at the porcelean. Just buy a new one, they're cheap. Try Rockauto.com And here's a discount code to boot 697484453749
That broken wire is what's triggering your intermittent code 32. I'm assuming that's what you were getting? SES light coming on once the car's warmed up and eventually going off?
It's an EGR temperature sensor. From what I've read on the forum and personal experience, they are notorious for breaking at the porcelean. Just buy a new one, they're cheap. Try Rockauto.com And here's a discount code to boot 697484453749
Great, thanks. It looks easy to replace.
Aside from the 32, could the temp sensor cause other problems? Like running like crap?
No. If I remember correctly, the sensor just reads the temperature of the recirculated ex. gas that runs through that metal tube. It feeds that info back to the ECM. When replacing the sensor, be careful screwing it in so you don't break the porcelean & wire during install.
After reading this below a couple of months ago in the testing section they talked about "inspect all passages and moving parts for plugging, sticking and deposits" is when I took a water hose to the egr and cleaned it up. It was very dirty back there and even though I previously had a new egr installed before getting code 32 lately, cleaning the egr with the water hose seemed to clear the code for the meantime. Don't worry I didn't hose the front part of the engine block just the rear end of it back there.
No. If I remember correctly, the sensor just reads the temperature of the recirculated ex. gas that runs through that metal tube. It feeds that info back to the ECM. When replacing the sensor, be careful screwing it in so you don't break the porcelean & wire during install.
Sure. Maybe 10 ft/lbs? It's more of being careful with the wire and insulator.
IMO, I wouldn't really hose down an EGR valve. When they go bad, it's usually a leaky diaphragm or a stuck pintle. External cleaning shouldn't do anything. Though I wouldn't want to take the slim chance of getting water recirculated back into a cylinder.
That broken wire is what's triggering your intermittent code 32. I'm assuming that's what you were getting? SES light coming on once the car's warmed up and eventually going off?
It's an EGR temperature sensor. From what I've read on the forum and personal experience, they are notorious for breaking at the porcelean. Just buy a new one, they're cheap. Try Rockauto.com And here's a discount code to boot 697484453749
That wire broke off my 87... and i was getting code 32 also... ive since deleted the egr system and i dont get a code 32 anymore.... just my .002c