Clearcoat coming off.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington NC
Clearcoat coming off.
My 94 has started to lose the clearcoat, I know a paint job is in its future but what can I do short term to stop this? It is only coming off on the pillar, no where else on the car. I guess 14 years in the southern sun will kill any paint job.
I have kept the car waxed, probably too often, so the paint has been taken care of.
I've tried spraying the spots with aerosol clearcoat from an auto paint store, didn't help.
Any ideas?
I have kept the car waxed, probably too often, so the paint has been taken care of.
I've tried spraying the spots with aerosol clearcoat from an auto paint store, didn't help.
Any ideas?
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
From: Bruce WI
I had same thing on top of back on my 86. Had to have local bodyshop remove and sand,repaint,reclear. Turned out great, now 2 years later the "roof" that is between the hatch and the top is doing the same thing.........back to the shop
PS, they only charged $300 to do the back, was really suprised at the low cost
Good luck
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,624
Likes: 2
From: Canandaigua New York
Two things come to mind.
1.)On a car with a lot of curves, no NOT use a sanding block.
You'll create flat spots.
2.) Never use your 'finger tips' to sand out spots.
You'll create 'grooves'.
Put the sand paper in your hand and sand like you where wiping a window.
Side to side.
3.) Sand until you break the surface of the paint. Try not to sand through the primer.
If you use a DA sander, be very gentle and don't apply very much downward force.
Let the sander and the sandpaper do the work.
Oopps! That was THREE things.
Hope this helps.
1.)On a car with a lot of curves, no NOT use a sanding block.
You'll create flat spots.
2.) Never use your 'finger tips' to sand out spots.
You'll create 'grooves'.
Put the sand paper in your hand and sand like you where wiping a window.
Side to side.
3.) Sand until you break the surface of the paint. Try not to sand through the primer.
If you use a DA sander, be very gentle and don't apply very much downward force.
Let the sander and the sandpaper do the work.
Oopps! That was THREE things.
Hope this helps.
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Instructor
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 202
Likes: 1
From: boise id
Two things come to mind.
1.)On a car with a lot of curves, no NOT use a sanding block.
You'll create flat spots.
2.) Never use your 'finger tips' to sand out spots.
You'll create 'grooves'.
Put the sand paper in your hand and sand like you where wiping a window.
Side to side.
3.) Sand until you break the surface of the paint. Try not to sand through the primer.
If you use a DA sander, be very gentle and don't apply very much downward force.
Let the sander and the sandpaper do the work.
Oopps! That was THREE things.
Hope this helps.
1.)On a car with a lot of curves, no NOT use a sanding block.
You'll create flat spots.
2.) Never use your 'finger tips' to sand out spots.
You'll create 'grooves'.
Put the sand paper in your hand and sand like you where wiping a window.
Side to side.
3.) Sand until you break the surface of the paint. Try not to sand through the primer.
If you use a DA sander, be very gentle and don't apply very much downward force.
Let the sander and the sandpaper do the work.
Oopps! That was THREE things.
Hope this helps.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 322
Likes: 1
From: Muskego Wisconsin
I'm doing it right now! 3" peal on the hood of car of all places. I used 400 grit to get down thru clear coat then 1500 grit to prep for clear. In the process I hit primer I think, so I used black paint in a can I had laying around. I used scotch tape taped to typing paper leaving about 1/8 inch of sticky hanging off edge. figured this would minimize paint edge.
so far the paint looks really good as far as color match. I'm currently letting paint cure for a day or two. Then will sand, clear, sand, clear, sand and buff I guess.
I also have been practicing on a scrap piece of sheet metal. "I Think" I should be able to buff out scratches left from 1500 grit paper but will test that theory on my scrap piece.
planned to post pics after it's complete.
I took it to a body shop and they said "repaint hood, anything eles I wouldn't be happy with results" Price = $1369.00
For a couple hours of patients I am pleased with the results so far. Wallet is too!
so far the paint looks really good as far as color match. I'm currently letting paint cure for a day or two. Then will sand, clear, sand, clear, sand and buff I guess.
I also have been practicing on a scrap piece of sheet metal. "I Think" I should be able to buff out scratches left from 1500 grit paper but will test that theory on my scrap piece.
planned to post pics after it's complete.
I took it to a body shop and they said "repaint hood, anything eles I wouldn't be happy with results" Price = $1369.00
For a couple hours of patients I am pleased with the results so far. Wallet is too!
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 10
From: King George Virginia
"OK" repair
Without blending and clearing the entire panel the best you can achieve is an ok repair.
Water sand the area that is peeling with 1500 grit paper. Sand about 6 inches beyond where the clear is lifting. Be VERY careful when sanding the exposed base coat. If you cut through this you are going to need some professional tools to repair it. Use a wax and grease remover such as PPG 330 and thoroughly clean the area.
Automotive paint supply stores carry a high grade aerosol clear. You will also need a blender such as Melt-Down.
Once it is all good and clean and the rest of the car is masked off, start by putting VERY dry coats of clear over the base area. Too wet may cause the edges of the clear to lift. Once you have 2 or 3 coats over the base area put a coat or two into the 6 inch area stopping shy of the edge. Give this about 20 minutes to flash over and then VERY VERY LIGHTLY spray a light coat of the melt down over the edge between th new and old clear. Let dry overnight, wet sand with 2000 grit and carefully buff. It won't be an invisible repair, but it will look tons better than the missing clear.
Water sand the area that is peeling with 1500 grit paper. Sand about 6 inches beyond where the clear is lifting. Be VERY careful when sanding the exposed base coat. If you cut through this you are going to need some professional tools to repair it. Use a wax and grease remover such as PPG 330 and thoroughly clean the area.
Automotive paint supply stores carry a high grade aerosol clear. You will also need a blender such as Melt-Down.
Once it is all good and clean and the rest of the car is masked off, start by putting VERY dry coats of clear over the base area. Too wet may cause the edges of the clear to lift. Once you have 2 or 3 coats over the base area put a coat or two into the 6 inch area stopping shy of the edge. Give this about 20 minutes to flash over and then VERY VERY LIGHTLY spray a light coat of the melt down over the edge between th new and old clear. Let dry overnight, wet sand with 2000 grit and carefully buff. It won't be an invisible repair, but it will look tons better than the missing clear.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
From: Texarkana TX
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 194
Likes: 10
From: King George Virginia
Normally you would apply the clear so it is wet and shiny, but not so much to cause it to run. In this case, that would probably cause the edge of the clear to lift as the wet solvents will get under there. Putting it on dry can be accomplished by holding the can a little further back. It will look a little grainy. You can go a little heavier on the other coats. Just let the first coats flash well to lock the edge down. Wet sanding and buffing will bring the lustre up.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 269
Likes: 1
From: Anniston BAMA
Without blending and clearing the entire panel the best you can achieve is an ok repair.
Water sand the area that is peeling with 1500 grit paper. Sand about 6 inches beyond where the clear is lifting. Be VERY careful when sanding the exposed base coat. If you cut through this you are going to need some professional tools to repair it. Use a wax and grease remover such as PPG 330 and thoroughly clean the area.
Automotive paint supply stores carry a high grade aerosol clear. You will also need a blender such as Melt-Down.
Once it is all good and clean and the rest of the car is masked off, start by putting VERY dry coats of clear over the base area. Too wet may cause the edges of the clear to lift. Once you have 2 or 3 coats over the base area put a coat or two into the 6 inch area stopping shy of the edge. Give this about 20 minutes to flash over and then VERY VERY LIGHTLY spray a light coat of the melt down over the edge between th new and old clear. Let dry overnight, wet sand with 2000 grit and carefully buff. It won't be an invisible repair, but it will look tons better than the missing clear.
Water sand the area that is peeling with 1500 grit paper. Sand about 6 inches beyond where the clear is lifting. Be VERY careful when sanding the exposed base coat. If you cut through this you are going to need some professional tools to repair it. Use a wax and grease remover such as PPG 330 and thoroughly clean the area.
Automotive paint supply stores carry a high grade aerosol clear. You will also need a blender such as Melt-Down.
Once it is all good and clean and the rest of the car is masked off, start by putting VERY dry coats of clear over the base area. Too wet may cause the edges of the clear to lift. Once you have 2 or 3 coats over the base area put a coat or two into the 6 inch area stopping shy of the edge. Give this about 20 minutes to flash over and then VERY VERY LIGHTLY spray a light coat of the melt down over the edge between th new and old clear. Let dry overnight, wet sand with 2000 grit and carefully buff. It won't be an invisible repair, but it will look tons better than the missing clear.
