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The wire is broken off of the end of my egr switch. Got the part, went to change it, and found that the connector is under the distributor. Not much luck, so I went to take the back piece off of the plenum. It has 3 small torx screws in it. 1 of the 3 is stripped.
So, my problem/questions are:
Do I really have to pull out the distributor to get to the plug for the egr switch?
The wire is broken off of the end of my egr switch. Got the part, went to change it, and found that the connector is under the distributor. Not much luck, so I went to take the back piece off of the plenum. It has 3 small torx screws in it. 1 of the 3 is stripped.
So, my problem/questions are:
Do I really have to pull out the distributor to get to the plug for the egr switch?
And, how do I get out a stripped torx screw?
Thanks.
Can't answer all your questions, but to get the stripped screw out pry up gently on the part it is holding down while turning the screw. You may need an extra set of hands but this usually works.
-Tim
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Originally Posted by DaleD
The wire is broken off of the end of my egr switch. Got the part, went to change it, and found that the connector is under the distributor. Not much luck, so I went to take the back piece off of the plenum. It has 3 small torx screws in it. 1 of the 3 is stripped.
So, my problem/questions are:
Do I really have to pull out the distributor to get to the plug for the egr switch?
From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
I had the same problem with my EGR sensor wire on the '88, and the Check Engine light of course was ON.
Once I saw that the other end of the wire disappered behind the distributor, I just soldered the wire into the top of the sensor. Problem solved.
I figured if it didn't work, I'd have only wasted 7 extra minutes soldering before I had to do it the right way (which does not require pulling the distributor BTW).
Another way out is to unscrew the old sensor and then screw in the new one and splice the wires together with solder and shrink tubing.
You might get away with butt splice,obviously some have.But technicly,these sensors run on a millivolt signal,splicing can,and does create some resistance,and should be avoided if possible.
I have changed it without removing the distributor.It is a pain.
Patience grasshopper,patience.
You might get away with butt splice,obviously some have.But technicly,these sensors run on a millivolt signal,splicing can,and does create some resistance,and should be avoided if possible.
I have changed it without removing the distributor.It is a pain.
Patience grasshopper,patience.
You have? How in the world did you do it. I can see the connector, but can't get my hand on it from either side?
I admit it wasn't easy,and I don't have baseball gloves for hands.
Disconnecting the weather pack is harder than reconnecting.
I used a string with a loop in it to pull the connector up and as far to the right side of the engine as I could.Pulled the string with one hand ,and with the other reached in and raised the tab on the weatherpack and pulled it apart.
If I can do it,anybody can,it just takes a little time,and patience.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly.I think you have all heard that part before.
Last edited by GIMMESOME; Jun 25, 2007 at 12:01 AM.
I admit it wasn't easy,and I don't have baseball gloves for hands.
Disconnecting the weather pack is harder than reconnecting.
I used a string with a loop in it to pull the connector up and as far to the right side of the engine as I could.Pulled the string with one hand ,and with the other reached in and raised the tab on the weatherpack and pulled it apart.
If I can do it,anybody can,it just takes a little time,and patience.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly.I think you have all heard that part before.
Sounds like a job that requires a cool day, and lots of time.
I did get the screw out. I went to the body shop I use, I think the guy there is taking pity on me for the amount of stuff I have had to fix on this car.
Anyway, it's a simple fix, too bad I didn't think of it. He took a fiberglass cutting wheel and turned the torx screw into a slotted screw head. Got it out with a flat blade driver.
You might get away with butt splice,obviously some have.But technicly,these sensors run on a millivolt signal,splicing can,and does create some resistance,and should be avoided if possible.
I have changed it without removing the distributor.It is a pain.
Patience grasshopper,patience.
I don't know of any ECM reference voltages that are less than 5 volts and this one happens to be system or battery. When grounded by the switch, it drops to 0 at the ECM and it then assumes the EGR event took place. No milivolts involved when the ECM is simply monitoring an event - it's either there or it isn't. Shouldn't be any problem with a splice as long as you don't accidently connect it to ground.
I don't know of any ECM reference voltages that are less than 5 volts and this one happens to be system or battery. When grounded by the switch, it drops to 0 at the ECM and it then assumes the EGR event took place. No milivolts involved when the ECM is simply monitoring an event - it's either there or it isn't. Shouldn't be any problem with a splice as long as you don't accidently connect it to ground.
Your correct about the egr switch being go or no go.I still would shy away from splicing if I could avoid it.It comes with a wire and connector so I say use it. the ox sensor ,for one is, a millivolt signal,but it is a sensor,and not a switch.Both come with a lead for a reason.