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Is there body adhesive in a caulking type tube with the hardener also you can buy from the auto body supply shops? Reason I ask is I tried bonding a new quarter panel on the car with no sucess. First time added too much hardener and it dried too quickly on me. Second time I didn't put enough hardener in it and I had to pull the quarter panel back off for the second time. I'm not a real good body man so that's why I asked if anyone has ever heard of anything like this. That way it will mix correctly and I can shoot it right on the bonding strips with no problem with the correct ammount of hardener in it. THANKS FOR ANY HELP Pipe
I picked up a tube at Fleet Farm that has two tubes side by side so when you press the plunger it shoots out both then you mix it up. They should have it at other stores to.
The best way to mix any kind of two part chemical adhesive is with an accurate scale . Once you have both parts weighed out separately, you can mix and apply rapidly and get predictable results. You can also cool them in a fridge which will slow the cure but they get stiffer. The main problem with "twin tube" dispensers is that the two components are usually different viscosity and flow differently. Even used with a static mixer tube (which wastes material and mixers unless flushed after use which presents disposal problems) the mix ratio is still a bit suspect but gives you the "squirt-it-on" capability.
On another matter, you mentioned "bonding strips"! Are the bonded panels in the C4 actually bonded to the steel frame or to riveted fiberglass strips like the C2 was . GM has not released the assembly manuals for the C4s so I'm not real sure how they did it. The only reference I've seen in in McLellans book which doesn't mention bonding strips.
I bonded a set of hood louvers to my ZR1 2 years ago. I didnt want to buy the $50.00 2 part adhesive mixing gun that the instructions suggested, [knowing I would probably only use it one time]. My body shop that painted the parts told me to use a 1 part adhesive that they use to bond fiberglass and has never failed them. It is made by Dow and called Bateseal U-418 [urethane adhesive] about $20.00 dollars a tube. It worked very well for me, just need a caulking gun. To clean fiberglass before painting or to take off excess adhesive use Ultra Clean R7k 158 made by Sherwin Williams, About $22.00 a quart it also works very well and won't harm paint. Both can be gotten at auto paint supply stores.
Thanks guy's for the help. I got to get this thing bonded on soon it's holding up progress. If I wasn't so stupid about fiberglass and body work I would be way ahead of the game. I'm gonna check on some of the stuff that you guy's reccomended. Pipe