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Stainless Long tubes

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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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Default Stainless Long tubes

Anyone try these and know how they fit? Are they a PIA to install, I mean more than any other header?

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...7&dept_id=2020

Is there another option for stainless headers?
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 12:20 AM
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Dang, those are expensive. I'm sure they'd fit just fine, but I have not seen anyone use them before so I cant say for sure.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 12:59 AM
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Ouch, thats crazy pricing "Corvette Tax" - you can go with Elites and Y for about $500 total + shop to finish welding... if you don't already have it you'll have to consider the rear (magnaflow w/hi-flow cat) or whatever your preference, but the Maga add + $550 on top of that...but that give you a complete system new from engine to rear bumper...
Please include YR of C4 in post...
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jsup

Is there another option for stainless headers?
Stainless Works makes a very nice set of longtubes that bolt right up.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:26 AM
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Those look like my LPE stainless headers that I got in 2002. A bit more expensive though.

I'll have to take a closer look at mine now, but it looks to me like either a copy or the real deal with the 2 1/2" stepped collectors just like the old LPEs. Its good to know that they exist in case I need replacements someday.

The egr tube on mine snapped off, due to being unsupported and capped off with a block off plate, after I removed the egr when I installed the SR. The 304 ss may be fragile.

I had mine installed by a pro???. They were a PIA according to the installer. It was something like a 14-16 hour job with fabbing up brackets, and welding up flanges to connect to my existing duals etc. I think I was robbed, but what can you do.

Installer told me to pray I never need to replace the starter. So far so good.

Close fit at the oil filter, plugs are a PIA especially #8, some of the bolts are hard to reach. Ground clearance is reduced. Mine drag sometimes and have a few dents where they made contact with road bumps etc (car is lowered).

I just went out and checked under the hood of my car. From the pics shown, they seem to match mine, same convoluted tube configuration (for nearly equal length, I never measured though) and the fittings and collectors all look the same to me.

You may want to cross post this thread in Tech/Performance to get more views.

Last edited by tequilaboy; Jul 28, 2007 at 10:34 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by pletner
Stainless Works makes a very nice set of longtubes that bolt right up.
I thought the Ecklers ss longtubes are the Stainless Works LT's?

Both Ecklers and Stainless Works say (with exact same words) that their LT's need cutting and welding to connect to factory and aftermarket exhaust systems.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ToniH
I thought the Ecklers ss longtubes are the Stainless Works LT's?

Both Ecklers and Stainless Works say (with exact same words) that their LT's need cutting and welding to connect to factory and aftermarket exhaust systems.
Yes those are Stainless Works headers. Buying direct from SW would be cheaper. There was a group buy for them on here a long time ago. As far as I know they are the only SS headers. Exotic Muscle headers are known to fit well. If you want the most expensive, check these:

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20New%20Drag.htm
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
Yes those are Stainless Works headers. Buying direct from SW would be cheaper. There was a group buy for them on here a long time ago. As far as I know they are the only SS headers. Exotic Muscle headers are known to fit well. If you want the most expensive, check these:

http://www.stahlheaders.com/Frame%20New%20Drag.htm
No way those are SW headers. I know because I have SW headers. As mentioned, they look like the LPE design. My friend has LPEs on a C4 race car and they look like the ones pictured, although his are not stainless. LPE made them both ways but I didn't know they were still making C4 longtubes at all.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 04:00 PM
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No way those are SW headers. I know because I have SW headers. As mentioned, they look like the LPE design. My friend has LPEs on a C4 race car and they look like the ones pictured, although his are not stainless. LPE made them both ways but I didn't know they were still making C4 longtubes at all.
LPE doesn't make a L98 stainless header anymore.

Ecklers stainless headers:


Stainless works headers:


Look at the tube shapes and routing. To my eye its looks exactly the same.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 07:15 PM
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I don't mind having custom pipes made to mate the headers to the cat back, I have Power Effects, I am going to install myself and I'm not much of a fabricator, so I'm looking for something that will bold up with minor adjustments that I can fabricate.

I am looking for SS as even the coated ones tend to lose the coat after a few years. I am also considering havnig them chrome plated. Just for the hell of it.

I am trying to dress up under the hood a bit. This is one peice of the master plan. I hate doing things twice, so I want to do it right.

What is the cahepest pair of SS headers I can get that will bolt up without fabrication?
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ToniH
LPE doesn't make a L98 stainless header anymore.

Ecklers stainless headers:


Stainless works headers:


Look at the tube shapes and routing. To my eye its looks exactly the same.
If that's the case, I stand corrected. They must have changed their design drastically. They appear to be as close as practically possible now to equal length long tubes. I haven't been in touch with them for a long time. I need to get updated.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
I don't mind having custom pipes made to mate the headers to the cat back, I have Power Effects, I am going to install myself and I'm not much of a fabricator, so I'm looking for something that will bold up with minor adjustments that I can fabricate.

I am looking for SS as even the coated ones tend to lose the coat after a few years. I am also considering havnig them chrome plated. Just for the hell of it.

I am trying to dress up under the hood a bit. This is one peice of the master plan. I hate doing things twice, so I want to do it right.

What is the cahepest pair of SS headers I can get that will bolt up without fabrication?
As I posted above, the SW SS headers are the only SS headers that I know of so I hope they are cheap enough. For coatings, go with Swain tech but it might not be pretty enough.

http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/i...5ad0c0eb74cf26
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
As I posted above, the SW SS headers are the only SS headers that I know of so I hope they are cheap enough. For coatings, go with Swain tech but it might not be pretty enough.

http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/i...5ad0c0eb74cf26
I think those are the same ones Ecklers carries. They are cheaper in Ecklers considering the Y pipe comes with it.

Can you tell me if there's any fabrication necessary to get these installed. I don't mind some minor grinding and such, I'm talking real fabrication.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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From what I have read, many headers require some minor work in fitment. I have read that EM headers are the best direct fit. Most installs go pretty well but I have read some where many things needed minor clearancing. Hookers are one that need some fabrication but that I consider minor as well, just a spacer tube for the alternator, etc. I don't know for sure how long the Swain tech coating lasts but I bet it's decades. I have an older pair of TPIS tubes.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Just wanted to let ya know,if you wanted to,you could get your stock factory shorty headers chrome or coated,and leave the heat sheilds off.
It would dress up the engine bay on the sides and look great.

Thats just another option one can do,to clean it up nicely and have a headers look without the price tag and install problems.

That being said,most headers should bolt in,but its the adding of the rest of the exhaust where fabricated is needed.Like cutting welding or etc of the mid pipes.Some cars,the fuel lines end up very close to headers when the pipes are installed and moving the fuel lines is a good idea too.Dont forget about that.Dont want to heat the lines up too much from exhaust heat.

Just throwing some ideas around.Hope you find the pipes youre looking for if having headers is a must have.

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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Aggravated4life
Just wanted to let ya know,if you wanted to,you could get your stock factory shorty headers chrome or coated,and leave the heat sheilds off.
It would dress up the engine bay on the sides and look great.

Thats just another option one can do,to clean it up nicely and have a headers look without the price tag and install problems.

That being said,most headers should bolt in,but its the adding of the rest of the exhaust where fabricated is needed.Like cutting welding or etc of the mid pipes.Some cars,the fuel lines end up very close to headers when the pipes are installed and moving the fuel lines is a good idea too.Dont forget about that.Dont want to heat the lines up too much from exhaust heat.

Just throwing some ideas around.Hope you find the pipes youre looking for if having headers is a must have.

I am reading that there are dipstick issues with clearance, ect....There's a local welding shop that has done some work for me, I can have him weld a tab on for the dipstick.

I guess my question is how much BS (other than removing the original exhaust and putting on the headers) is there with "incidentals"?

I like the idea of taking out the pre-cats and using the stock manifold.

What kinds of gains will I see with long tubes vs. stock with no pre cats and a high flow main cat?

I like the sounds of headers.....

If I can get the headers mounted to the heads and in place, there's a custom exhaust shop locally that can bend pipes and complete the connections. It's just between the headers and the cat or cats depending on what I do.
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jsup
I am reading that there are dipstick issues with clearance, ect....There's a local welding shop that has done some work for me, I can have him weld a tab on for the dipstick.

I guess my question is how much BS (other than removing the original exhaust and putting on the headers) is there with "incidentals"?

I like the idea of taking out the pre-cats and using the stock manifold.

What kinds of gains will I see with long tubes vs. stock with no pre cats and a high flow main cat?

I like the sounds of headers.....

If I can get the headers mounted to the heads and in place, there's a custom exhaust shop locally that can bend pipes and complete the connections. It's just between the headers and the cat or cats depending on what I do.
I see where you are coming from,and agree headers sound the best,and do make the best of power.

I ran the stock shorties but bought the front Y pipe that had no precats.Was a little louder than stock,not much.Made changing starters a breeze too.Not sure if there was ever a power gain though.The catalogs say at least 10HP by replacing the cat Y with a no cat one.But thats the catalogs eh?


Anyways If you want to see a picture of my old shorties with a polish on them,PM your email.Just for ideas,thats all.
Im not sure what type of emissions you have out there,so thats something to consider if you wanna run a main cat or hollow point.Cant beat headers though for sound though...

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To Stainless Long tubes

Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Aggravated4life
I see where you are coming from,and agree headers sound the best,and do make the best of power.

I ran the stock shorties but bought the front Y pipe that had no precats.Was a little louder than stock,not much.Made changing starters a breeze too.Not sure if there was ever a power gain though.The catalogs say at least 10HP by replacing the cat Y with a no cat one.But thats the catalogs eh?


Anyways If you want to see a picture of my old shorties with a polish on them,PM your email.Just for ideas,thats all.
Im not sure what type of emissions you have out there,so thats something to consider if you wanna run a main cat or hollow point.Cant beat headers though for sound though...

I really want to do the headers, as long as I'm not getting into a cluster **** in terms of "odds and ends" that make it more difficult.

Some say you have to cut away a piece of the frame, others problems with the dipstick, ect.

How much BS is attached to doing headers.

As you point out, I can go with a cat-less "Y" pipe which is cheap and easy.

It's more of a bullcrap issue, and I'm trying to figure it out.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jsup
I really want to do the headers, as long as I'm not getting into a cluster **** in terms of "odds and ends" that make it more difficult.

Some say you have to cut away a piece of the frame, others problems with the dipstick, ect.

How much BS is attached to doing headers.

As you point out, I can go with a cat-less "Y" pipe which is cheap and easy.

It's more of a bullcrap issue, and I'm trying to figure it out.
Different brand headers have different issues. I hear the best fitment from SW and EM. The most issues I hear about are Hooker. Also it can depend on your cars year, as older years had the large starter etc. You could try asking about a specific header brand on a specific year, over in tech.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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TPIS look great and go on so easy
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