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Sorry for the poor image resolution, but I got this page from the May 2003 edition of "Corvette Fever" magazine. It lists a step (No. 25) that repairs floppy 1990 and up door panels, too.
The author put an added lip of aluminum at the rear of the door on the bolt for the rearmost window rattle-snubber.
Don't make it so high that it prevents the interior door panel from seating properly. It might take a few tries to get that "just right" fit. I think I'll give it a shot myself.
Very good ideas on a what must be a very common problem. I just bought my 95 and 2 days later noticed the dreaded flop. Read all the suggestions here and am always looking for an easier way. I have used JB weld in the past, very good product but I recently did a repair job with a product called "Gorilla Glue". It works on many different substances so I just layed a thin layer of it on metal ridges of the door and pushed the door panel back down, didnt clamp, let it sit overnight and for the past week, it hasnt budged a bit. If it does, next time I will clamp it but so far so good. This stuff is really easy to use. No mix, no fuss, just squeeze a little out and you're good to go.
I am tempted to try this my only thought is could I completely pull the rib from the panel as the gap between the rib and strip edge has become quite large and there would be a significant amount of pull on the ribs to narrow that gap. From the pictures you posted the ribs on your panel look like they are quite a bit larger than the ones on my 92. Any thoughts on this
Very impressive write-up Louisville LT4. I must thank you highly, as the loose panel on my '92 was extremely annoying, and getting worse. This repair worked perfectly on my driver's door. I added the ties to 5 ribs as all were cracked, and also repaired the connection in back, between the black armrest and the colored upper section. This was reinforced with a metal clip to replace the cheap plastic tab that broke. The side screw on my vehicle was previously replaced with an enormous bolt that enlarged the hole and did nothing to anchor the panel laterally. I replaced it with a black nylon fascia retainer that is pushed in place, with a smooth face, from NAPA (665-2856), grand total: $9 for retainers and ties. BTW, my panels are ABS not fiberglass, and ABS while thicker, is less rigid, and IMV worse than fiberglass as far as strength, It did allow for the ties to be made super tight, pulling the top down 1/4" more than originally, to firmly hook the tabs. Thanks again.
Images below in order: (1) 3/4" gap, flopping enlarged side screw hole, also allowing noise in cabin. (2) Ties pulling top edge down, 2 on 1st and 3rd below, to strengthen ribs. Note how wavy and pliable abs plastic is. Note broken clip under hex screw on right edge. (3) Broken clip between black armrest and colored panel top. This is stress break from panel flopping when closing. (4) Metal clip in place to pull black armrest panel edge back into allignment. Do NOT overtighten this. (5) Reinstall complete, total time 1 hour. (6) Close-up of fascia retainer plug, smooth and will not snag clothing. Looks better than a screw too!
The screw you refer to was standard until (I believe) '95. There is a plastic insert the goes onto the bracket on the door frame and the screw bites into the insert. My door panels don't have the sag problem but the driver side would become unattached. The screw alone fixed my problem. Passenger side didn't have the problem but only because it gets used so infrequently. I installed the screw in both doors. Highly recommend it.
I dont have screws in the rear of the door panels, so my door panels have pulled out so much that I can see the fiberglass piece you refer to in putting a screw in. My question is: what type screw do you use that wont look out of place, and where could I get the metal piece that fits over the tab and allows the screw to be tightened without stripping out/
The screw you refer to was standard until (I believe) '95. There is a plastic insert the goes onto the bracket on the door frame and the screw bites into the insert. My door panels don't have the sag problem but the driver side would become unattached. The screw alone fixed my problem. Passenger side didn't have the problem but only because it gets used so infrequently. I installed the screw in both doors. Highly recommend it.
Mark, I know this is an old post, but my 94 has the door problem of lifting up and off the supports. I can see the molded plastic inner door bump that the screw held on to, but there is a gap between the outer door and the inside bump. I don't see a bracket on the door frame although you could be referring to the same "bump" I see.
Did you just put a screw, like a metal screw or a wood deck screw into the bracket (bump)? I'm thinking that possibly I would like to super glue a nut on the bracket and screw a door panel screw into that.
I dont have screws in the rear of the door panels, so my door panels have pulled out so much that I can see the fiberglass piece you refer to in putting a screw in. My question is: what type screw do you use that wont look out of place, and where could I get the metal piece that fits over the tab and allows the screw to be tightened without stripping out/
What did you end up doing with your door? My 94 doesn't have the screw hold either.
I don't know if this may help someone regarding door panel flop, but I finally had to resort to an adhesive. GOOP was the strongest option, remaining both flexible and clear. The zip ties worked initially, then ultimately tore through the holes in the ribbed ABS door panel. So without any way to strengthen or reinforce those ribs, I decided to try GOOP dotted on the top rear interior of panel where it hooks the top edge of the door. Don't use too much so it drips, instead place it strategically in 2 or 3 spots. Then after reinstalling the panel, run a bead between the panel and the painted part of door. Either mask off where glue is not desired, or smooth edge quickly with cloth dipped in lacquer thinner, or use finger just to smooth. Let dry at least 24 hours, for a permanent, invisible bond. Of course, now if access to inside of door is required, the GOOP must be cut with a razor blade or box cutter. This has taken care of it once and for all. Also, if your year does not have the retaining screw, you wont need to add one.
I don't know if this may help someone regarding door panel flop, but I finally had to resort to an adhesive. GOOP was the strongest option, remaining both flexible and clear. The zip ties worked initially, then ultimately tore through the holes in the ribbed ABS door panel. So without any way to strengthen or reinforce those ribs, I decided to try GOOP dotted on the top rear interior of panel where it hooks the top edge of the door. Don't use too much so it drips, instead place it strategically in 2 or 3 spots. Then after reinstalling the panel, run a bead between the panel and the painted part of door. Either mask off where glue is not desired, or smooth edge quickly with cloth dipped in lacquer thinner, or use finger just to smooth. Let dry at least 24 hours, for a permanent, invisible bond. Of course, now if access to inside of door is required, the GOOP must be cut with a razor blade or box cutter. This has taken care of it once and for all. Also, if your year does not have the retaining screw, you wont need to add one.
Thanks Scott,
I only have the closest rib to the door edge cracked. Since I don't have the retaining screw, I think I will drill a hole through the platform and expoy a nut on the other side and put a screw through the platform into the nut. I suspect there also should be a spacer installed between the platform and the door panel to take up the slack and keep it tight.
Here are some pics of the hardware I used to secure the panel to the edge of the door after my zip tie fix. All off the shelf at AutoZone.
Note placement at top of slot . No modification needed. Used mid size plug from package.
Off the shelf from AutoZone. Mid size plug indicated by screw pointing. $2.99 per package.
Here are some pics of the hardware I used to secure the panel to the edge of the door after my zip tie fix. All off the shelf at AutoZone. Note placement at top of slot . No modification needed. Used mid size plug from package.
Off the shelf from AutoZone. Mid size plug indicated by screw pointing. $2.99 per package.
Final appearance.
That looks pretty good and probably something that can be done without taking off the panel.
Nice fix! I went to the local AutoZone and got the same parts. My 96 Coupe driver's door had the same problem - so much so that the upper edge of the panel where it "hangs" on the window rail had cracked and separated some. I'll try this solution -- it should help keep that panel from rattling so much.
Nice fix! I went to the local AutoZone and got the same parts. My 96 Coupe driver's door had the same problem - so much so that the upper edge of the panel where it "hangs" on the window rail had cracked and separated some. I'll try this solution -- it should help keep that panel from rattling so much.
The picture shows you have the hold down screw. (?) Take pictures and let us know your steps. I'm going to start gathering parts.
Last edited by Scooter94; 10-25-2016 at 05:03 PM.
Reason: Adding content
The picture shows you have the hold down screw. (?) Take pictures and let us know your steps. I'm going to start gathering parts.
Hey Scooter94 - not sure what retainer screw you mean. My 96 has basically a one piece panel at the rear edge of the door. See photo.
From posts above, older models had two-piece door cards that not only had the problem of not staying hung on the upper door rail, but also suffered from separating the two pieces of the door panel. The 96's basically have a one piece door panel that also would not stay hung on the door rail.
Nice fix! I went to the local AutoZone and got the same parts. My 96 Coupe driver's door had the same problem - so much so that the upper edge of the panel where it "hangs" on the window rail had cracked and separated some. I'll try this solution -- it should help keep that panel from rattling so much.
before...
finished...
I'm thinking some Locktite for Vynil or plastic first to try to repair the split would be the first thing to try to close that gap then use some straps to bind and hold it in place while it sets. I also read somewhere that someone had cut away a bit of the weatherstripping so the panel would sit a bit lower on the "lip" of the door, and I indeed did a little of that myself... just "notched" it a bit.
Hey Scooter94 - not sure what retainer screw you mean. My 96 has basically a one piece panel at the rear edge of the door. See photo.
From posts above, older models had two-piece door cards that not only had the problem of not staying hung on the upper door rail, but also suffered from separating the two pieces of the door panel. The 96's basically have a one piece door panel that also would not stay hung on the door rail.
Does that answer your question?
Joe C. In NorCal
I have a 94, so it is likely newer. I was referring to the lone screw just above the rear hatch switch on the door panel.
I just did mine with the screw. The slot is already in the door frame. If you buy the exact packages listed above by RLowindy it works great. One of the inserts fits exactly into the slot. The only thing to be concerned about is putting the screw in the right spot. Look at the pictures above, you won't have any problems.
06-09-2009, 08:07 AM
