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85 battery drain issue

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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 07:13 PM
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Default 85 battery drain issue

hello i have a 85 c4 that webt from draining the battery from several days to overnite.here is what i have done so far put a volt meter in line and draws 12.55 i pulled all the fuses and relays but the draw is still there.unplugged the ecm,alt,antenna,headlight motors and 3 relays under the hood.any ideas?
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Old Aug 12, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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You have pulled the fuses for just about everything. Do any of the wires feel warm? Check hot lead from batttery to starter? Hot lead to distributor?
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by specky19
hello i have a 85 c4 that webt from draining the battery from several days to overnite.here is what i have done so far put a volt meter in line and draws 12.55 i pulled all the fuses and relays but the draw is still there.unplugged the ecm,alt,antenna,headlight motors and 3 relays under the hood.any ideas?
Did you pull the horn fuse that's behind the DIC panel on the upper dash?

Could be your factory alarm system.
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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To measure current, you use an ammeter, or a milliammeter and connect it in series with a disconnected battery cable, preferably the negative battery terminal. You do not use a voltmeter!!!!!!!!!!
GM says leakage current shouldn't exceed 50 milliamps. My 87 draws 27 ma. Watch the ammeter while your pull each fuse and the one that makes a dramatic drop in current is the circuit that you need to inspect.
Also, behind your battery is the jump start terminal that has 8 red wires on it that use a fusible link, and these wires should be disconnected one at time while watching the ammeter if you don't find any leakage by pulling fuses.
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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there is a relay above the radio that was warm when i put the radio in everything else is cool to the touch.where is the horn fuse can i get to it from under the dash or pull the cluster dic?
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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its all coming back to me know shop class was 20 years ago on the 20m scale it cycles 42.8 31.9 23.0 15.6 and drops i asume as it takes power from the battery. also i noticed mt security light doesnt flash any more. also i have no door or under dash lights but have hatch lights only when hatch is open. when i started today the battery was unhooked and it read .006 i hooked it up started the car then shut the car off and did t dest again and thats when i noticed it cycling. any ideas what to test next?
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Old Aug 13, 2007 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by specky19
there is a relay above the radio that was warm when i put the radio in everything else is cool to the touch.where is the horn fuse can i get to it from under the dash or pull the cluster dic?
Take the DIC/Radio trim panel off, then remove the DIC.
The horn/security system fuse is right behind the DIC. The relay is probably also
for the horn/security system. If it's warm, the coil is probably going bad, or the alarm is constantly running, but the horn ain't beeping because the fuse may be blown (15 amp)
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 12:44 AM
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Make sure you don't leave your key in the ignition when you park your C4 because that keeps the theft detterent circuit on and will discharge your battery.
With the battery disconnected, your milliammeter should read zero! Also, your information is inadequite for us to provide any help. If your milliammeter is set to 20m (I am assuming 20 milliamps full scale), then you won't see any reading over 20, so why do you even have any meter readings exceeding 20? You need to better explain your meter connections and conditions.

Last edited by jfb; Aug 14, 2007 at 12:50 AM.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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the key is out it reads 0 after i hook up the battery but after i start the car is when it cycles the numbers i listed. the way im testing is pulling the postive battery cable and probing between the wire and the battery. what should my mulitmeter be set on?i am rust with my electrial repair skills
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 08:12 AM
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i pullrd the dic there were 3 relays no fuse
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by specky19
the key is out it reads 0 after i hook up the battery but after i start the car is when it cycles the numbers i listed. the way im testing is pulling the postive battery cable and probing between the wire and the battery. what should my mulitmeter be set on?i am rust with my electrial repair skills
Your multimeter should be set on its highest amp scale because the courtesy lights will come on when you complete the circuit and I would expect several amps to flow. If you set your multimeter for say 2 amps full scale, you will damage your ammeter or blow an internal fuse. What multimeter do you own? If you pull the courtesy fuse and connect your ammeter in series with the battery, (hood down so the hood lights don't come on) I would expect normal leakage current under 50 milliamps.
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 04:36 PM
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Default Something to think about...

Consider buying a schematic of the wiring harness (maybe they're on the net somewhere for free).

This will give you a bird's-eye-view of the entire sustem. It will allow you to isolate systematically.

And would be a much more efficient use of your time and efforts in your endeavor.

Your job once you get the schematic is to prove what it is not. A little at a time narrow it down and then voila.

Just one man's opinion.
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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i have the factory service manual just need the time and cooler weather to work on it

Last edited by specky19; Aug 18, 2007 at 10:10 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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well i guess i should have started with the battery but it was almost new. i know i know keep it simple i screwd up but its holding now atleast over nite time will tell
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