Wiring Problem ?
The air bag light is on and stays on steady (maybe air bag moduleor need to be reset at dealer?)
The door pins were removed and when I put them in you here the door lock motor try to lock periodically.
The cruise control doesn't work (looks like a new switch wires are connected also) and the pwr mirror fuse #31 (5 amp) keeps popping.
The electric fan doesnt kick on wired it up to a hot and ground and it runs great but would like it to work like it should.
Any one else ever had any of these syptoms or know any solution? Thanks in Advance for any help
Last edited by cdreece; Sep 23, 2007 at 01:48 AM.
1.The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint sys operation is: The "AIR BAG" warning lamp should flash 7 times when the ignition is turned on. It should remain on during cranking. After cranking, it should flash 6 times then go "OFF".
This test checks for the proper operation of the "serial data" line. This test differentiates warning lamp stays on condition from a warning lamp does not come on condition. It also test checks the proper operation of the serial data line. This test also identifies the stored diagnostic trouble codes and whether they are current or in history.
WHEN TROUBLESHOOTING THE SIR SYSTEM, DO NOT USE ELEC. TEST EQUIPMENT SUCH AS BATTERY POWERED OR AC POWERED VOLTMETER, OHMMETER, ETC... DO NOT USE A NON-POWERED PROBE TY TESTER, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT.
Last edited by jsavoy; Sep 23, 2007 at 06:15 AM.
21. Take the ignition key out of the ignition.
2. Press DOOR on the x-mitter until the door locks cycle (~2 sec.)
This should stop the locks from cycling.
To turn it on, just repeat the steps.
3If the power mirror fuse keeps blowing, it means something is amiss in that circuit. The wiring should be checked along with the components in the circuit to determine if there’s a short or other problem. {an electrician, auto mech or someone who understand elec. circuits & can read schematics-not recommended for the novice}
I'm not trying to scare you, just don't want you to create more of a problem... dash/column fires suck.
Last edited by jsavoy; Sep 23, 2007 at 06:16 AM.
4
I'm guessing the electric fan(s) don't kick on when wired hot? Don't replace the fans until you've checked the circuit! If not, you'll be throwing parts at the car and they're expensive enough.
To check the circuit - First check the fuses. If the fuses are good, turn the A/C on. Does either fan come on? [The main fan comes on w/ coolant temp is 228 deg F and the second fan @ 238 deg F. The A/C has a pressure switch that turns on the fans when the refrigerant pressure gets to @240 psi.]
If neither fan comes on: check the connections / With engine OFF, disconnect both fans and pull the wiring above the radiator shroud. Check for power @ the connections w/ the AC ON. If you have power, the fans are bad. If you don't have power, check the fuses/relay - replace the fans.
CAVEAT LECTOR ^^ All of the above information was provided while in a prescription drug-induced stupor.^^**Don't worry, by the time you read my replies others will have corrected any inadvertent mistakes and added anything I missed!!!
BTW, welcome to the forum!
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The door switch has a plastic 'nose', which is supose to self-adjust in/out of the switch plunger. It is also supose to contact a plastic 'button' on the car's door frame.
Unfortunately, the self-adjusting feature does not work, and the 'nose' pushes in too far, causing the switch to think the door is openning and then closing.
The easy fix is to install 2 small o-rings between the 'nose' and the switch plunger, which will keep the switch properly pushed-in while the door is closed.





