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I'm gonna work on my car tomorrow and need to jack it up for the first time. I have to jack up the front and try to find my annoying coolant leak (never leaked until I had a service :mad ), and I need to jack up the rear to adjust my parking brake. The manual I have just has instuctions for the supplied jack, but I have a floor/trolley jack and some jack/axel stands to support it once it's up.
My question is, where should I jack up the car and place the jackstands to avoid damage and provide the best safety (both front and back). The jackstands are V shaped at the top and that worries me.
I too have a cooling leak. Taking the radiator in Monday. I usually drive the front end up on the ramps then Jack the rear. If you need more romm in the front jack it after its on the ramps. I removed my spare so I jack from the spring purch in the rear. I use the cross member up front. I place a couple 2x4s on the jack first. I truely hate jacking C4s. The stands are another issue..........
My leak appears to be caused by a failed gasket on the end tank. Use a presure tester.
look for the arrows. there is an arrow in front of rear tire and also in back
of front tire. look along the lower trim panel.
i like to use the jack-a-vette ($75) at 1 800 666 7728 it goes on your
floor jack and has a notch to fit under your differential housing.
have a good day
Thanks for the help guys. Unfortunaltley I found out today that my car has locking wheel nuts, and I don't have a keyed socket for them, so I'm screwed :mad :cry
I have finally, after over 2 years, figured out a safe and easy way to jack my car. But of course, I can't seem to get the jack out of the way of the stands.
:rolleyes: :mad
I'm pretty sure any tire shop will be able to remove the lock nuts for you. I would buy 4 (or more) replacement lugnuts from the dealer, take them with you to the tire shop, and have them put them on in place of the lock nuts.
Or you might be able to give your VIN to the dealer and see if they can order a new key for you.
Hey Chas,
I tried to call that number you gave for the Jack-A-Vette. It didn't work, maybe because I am out of state. Do you have another number? Thanks
Hey Chas, I tried to call that number you gave for the Jack-A-Vette. It didn't work, maybe because I am out of state. Do you have another number? Thanks
Bad news, they've gone out of business. Too bad, too.. the Jack-a-Vette works extremely well for getting the back end up. I have one, bought it a year ago, just after I picked up my GS.
I'm surprised one of the supporting vendors hasn't jumped on the bandwagon and had a similar device produced. If you have a C4, you need one of these puppies... :seeya
If you don't have ramps, another trick you can do is nail a few 2x4's (in a stepped fashion, i.e. a shorter piece on top of a longer piece) and drive the car's front wheels on top of them. This will give you enough clearance for the floor jack to get to the front cross member (with 2x4 on the jack pad) without hitting the front air dam.
Jacking up the rear is always a PITA. Just be careful around the brake lines and use a shorter piece of 2x4 (about 4-5" long) and it's not too bad once you've done it a few times. You can also place jackstands at the base of the rear end assembly (where the cross links join at the bottom).
The pain in the **** about jacking up a C-4 is that the lower valence panels hang lower than the metal rail. What I have to do most of the time is remove the lower screws on the panel and then I can pull the panel out a bit, just enough for the jack pad and/or jackstand to engage the rail without contacting the valence panel. I'm going to try and buy or fabricate a spacer (door edge protectors might work) to take up the slack so I won't have to go through this every time.