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I need some advice on how to remove a stuck and stripper bolt from the base of the L98 manifold, everything was going well till the very last bolt on the intake . I tried vicegrips, then I squared the edges best I could then tried the grips again. I tried to JB-weld a nut onto the bolt but it didnt harden overnight. I tried an ez-out but it felt like it was about to break so I stopped... what can I do?
I need some advice on how to remove a stuck and stripper bolt from the base of the L98 manifold, everything was going well till the very last bolt on the intake . I tried vicegrips, then I squared the edges best I could then tried the grips again. I tried to JB-weld a nut onto the bolt but it didnt harden overnight. I tried an ez-out but it felt like it was about to break so I stopped... what can I do?
Just a thought. If you were to grind off the head of the bolt, could you get the manifold off? If so there should be enough of the bolt to get a good grip with vice-grips. Soak the bolt with "Aerokroil" Much better then WD-40.
Just a thought. If you were to grind off the head of the bolt, could you get the manifold off? If so there should be enough of the bolt to get a good grip with vice-grips. Soak the bolt with "Aerokroil" Much better then WD-40.
hmm good idea, it should come off, it's the verrrry last bolt on the base. not enough room to grind though, maybe a lil drilling.
I always use a torch to heat the area the bolt is threaded into. I do this for about a few minutes. This makes the metal around it expand. Then I use a vice grip to get it out. It always works for me.
I always use a torch to heat the area the bolt is threaded into. I do this for about a few minutes. This makes the metal around it expand. Then I use a vice grip to get it out. It always works for me.
it's right near fuel lines though so I don't want to risk that, I'll try breaking the head off...
I have broken every screw extractor I have ever bought..you know the kind that look like a reverse threaded drill bit. The craftsman ones that grab the outside the bolthead work. Of course, if you break the head off the bolt then you'll need to resort to head/welding/vice grips.
I know you're concerned about the fuel lines, but unless you lines are rusty (leaking?) or you're using a cutting torch I wouldn't be (concerned).
Get a little MAPP torch up in there. Put a piece of tin (like an old license plate) between you flame and the fuel lines. Heat that bolt up then clamp the vise grips on it before it starts cooling. Don't crank it all at once, just start twisting it (wiggling it) back & forth until it breaks free.http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomat...rnzoProd100072
i agree with Dan, although the main goal of heat is to expand the manifold and not the bolt, with that in mind every little bit helps so I'd put the vise-grips on first to extract heat from the bolt to keep it cooler. Use MAP like Dan explained and it will come out no prob. Also go slow, wiggling first, use lots of oil on it too.
I don't know if you have the room to get an Impact Driver in there, but it will do the trick. I don't mean an impact wrench, I mean a manual impact driver. It would work even better with one of those nice new Craftsman gripper sockets and the impact driver. Just a thought.
Try this.It should be a torx head bolt,T-45 if I remember.Get the next size up,T-47 I think,with a 3/8 square drive.Put an extention on it and drive that into the striped out bolt with a hammer.Give it a couple of good wacks.You will ruin the torx bit,but so what.Jarring the bolt with the hammer will help loosen it.It should break free.Good luck.
When this happended to me I used my dremel to cut off the head of the bolt and when the intake was removed it was alot easier to removed the bolt with some vice grips