95 won't start
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Enid Oklahoma
95 won't start
I have a 95 coupe with starting problems. Car wants to turn over but seems to be getting no fuel. Took it into the dealer last year with the same problem and they replaced my starter...twice!! Seemed to work...for about one year, then started all over again. Took it to a different dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They did replace the key and said bring it back if it happens again. Coming home today and stopped to pick a few things up, got back in the car and wouldn't start. After a few mintues it idled real bad and moved down the road, shuddering all the way, then quit. Wan't to turn over but won't start. Any ideas before I go back to the dealership?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
Put the battery on a charger while sorting this out because even if we get the root cause, the battery will suffer from the repeated start attempts. Check the battery first to make sure you’ve got 13-13.5 volts with the key off.
Rotation, compression, fuel, air, spark.
Does the engine turn over at its normal speed when you’re trying to start it?
I don’t see how the engine could lose compression from one start to the next so let’s assume that’s ok.
Are the fuel rails pressurized? Even without a gauge one can do a simple test by pressing the pin on the shredder valve on the rail. With a rag ready to catch the gas, there should be a nice squirt out of the valve.
I don’t see how either the exhaust or the intake could get clogged from one start to the next either so let’s give air a check too.
Check for spark at an easy to reach plug. There are many ways to do this and spark testers are only a few dollars at Harbor Freight and elsewhere. If no spark, check the codes for 16 and 36 (opti)
Rotation, compression, fuel, air, spark.
Does the engine turn over at its normal speed when you’re trying to start it?
I don’t see how the engine could lose compression from one start to the next so let’s assume that’s ok.
Are the fuel rails pressurized? Even without a gauge one can do a simple test by pressing the pin on the shredder valve on the rail. With a rag ready to catch the gas, there should be a nice squirt out of the valve.
I don’t see how either the exhaust or the intake could get clogged from one start to the next either so let’s give air a check too.
Check for spark at an easy to reach plug. There are many ways to do this and spark testers are only a few dollars at Harbor Freight and elsewhere. If no spark, check the codes for 16 and 36 (opti)
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Enid Oklahoma
Opti!
I don't understand. This has happened to me several times over the past two years and after a while it starts. If the opti is the problem why would it go for almost a year and start again? I was at the dealership six months ago and they ran a thorough check and couldn't find anything, should I mention the opti to them?
I just had it towed home and tried to start it in the garage. Wants to turn over but won't. Seems to have plenty of spark and juice but doesn't want to turn on.
Are there any fuses I should be looking at? Could the fuel filter or fuel pump be bad?
Thanks for all your help
I just had it towed home and tried to start it in the garage. Wants to turn over but won't. Seems to have plenty of spark and juice but doesn't want to turn on.
Are there any fuses I should be looking at? Could the fuel filter or fuel pump be bad?
Thanks for all your help
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
I don't understand. This has happened to me several times over the past two years and after a while it starts. If the opti is the problem why would it go for almost a year and start again? I was at the dealership six months ago and they ran a thorough check and couldn't find anything, should I mention the opti to them?
I just had it towed home and tried to start it in the garage. Wants to turn over but won't. Seems to have plenty of spark and juice but doesn't want to turn on.
Are there any fuses I should be looking at? Could the fuel filter or fuel pump be bad?
Thanks for all your help
I just had it towed home and tried to start it in the garage. Wants to turn over but won't. Seems to have plenty of spark and juice but doesn't want to turn on.
Are there any fuses I should be looking at? Could the fuel filter or fuel pump be bad?
Thanks for all your help
Are you saying the engine won't turn over, or does it turn over but not start?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Ok. That rules out a VATS problem. Turn on the key and listen for the fuel pump running. Anything? Shrader valve, on fuel lines top/rear/pass side on engine--got pressure there? Still suggest you
take a paperclip and scan it for codes.
take a paperclip and scan it for codes.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Pull the error codes first!!!!
Engines require spark and spark at the right time, fuel and air and in the correct ratio in order to start and run. Use your timing light during cranking to see if you have spark and the timing is correct. Pull a plug wire and bring a grounded wire close to the plug wire while someone cranks a few revs. You should see at least a 1/2 inch snappy bright spark. Measure the fuel pressure on the shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail. Use a noid light (available at parts stores) or a low power 12v lamp like a 194 side marker lamp and unplug an injector and put the lamp across the injector wire. During cranking you should see the light pulse showing that the injectors are being pulsed. Pull a spark plug after cranking and see if it is wet with gasoline, you might have a leaky injector/s. Also, while measuring the fuel pressure, after turning the ign off, see how long it takes to lose fuel pressure. If it drops rapidly, you most likely have a leaky injector/s. Smell the exhaust during cranking, a strong smell of raw gas is also a sign of leaky injectors.
Engines require spark and spark at the right time, fuel and air and in the correct ratio in order to start and run. Use your timing light during cranking to see if you have spark and the timing is correct. Pull a plug wire and bring a grounded wire close to the plug wire while someone cranks a few revs. You should see at least a 1/2 inch snappy bright spark. Measure the fuel pressure on the shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail. Use a noid light (available at parts stores) or a low power 12v lamp like a 194 side marker lamp and unplug an injector and put the lamp across the injector wire. During cranking you should see the light pulse showing that the injectors are being pulsed. Pull a spark plug after cranking and see if it is wet with gasoline, you might have a leaky injector/s. Also, while measuring the fuel pressure, after turning the ign off, see how long it takes to lose fuel pressure. If it drops rapidly, you most likely have a leaky injector/s. Smell the exhaust during cranking, a strong smell of raw gas is also a sign of leaky injectors.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Enid Oklahoma
I'm going to check all of these in the morning. Great comments! Any thing else I should consider? By the way, could the fuel pump or fuel filter be bad? If so, where is the fuel pump located and how do I get to it? I know where the filtler is. You guys/gals are great.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,066
Likes: 3
From: Milpitas ca
Fuel Pump is in the gas tank.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
jfb gave some good advise. You will have to find out where you are missing the ingredients to start an engine.
Check at least 2 plug wires and make sure your getting spark.
Listen for the fuel pump within 2 seconds of turning the key on. You should hear a humm. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, press the schrader valve and see if fuel squirts out under pressure.
If you have both fuel and spark, you will need a noid light to check for injector pulses while cranking.
For a quick test before any of these, you can take the air duct off the throttle body and spray some starting fluid in the throttle body while someone cranks. If the engine starts and runs while spraying, you need to diagnose a fuel delivery problem.
The fuel pump is in the fuel tank. Easy to get to and pulls straight out once the rubber boot and 9 bolts are take loose.
Check at least 2 plug wires and make sure your getting spark.
Listen for the fuel pump within 2 seconds of turning the key on. You should hear a humm. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, press the schrader valve and see if fuel squirts out under pressure.
If you have both fuel and spark, you will need a noid light to check for injector pulses while cranking.
For a quick test before any of these, you can take the air duct off the throttle body and spray some starting fluid in the throttle body while someone cranks. If the engine starts and runs while spraying, you need to diagnose a fuel delivery problem.
The fuel pump is in the fuel tank. Easy to get to and pulls straight out once the rubber boot and 9 bolts are take loose.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Enid Oklahoma
Jumped in the car and turned the key enough to hear if the fuel pump would turn on...nothing. I usually here it right before it starts. Could this be the culprit? If so is it wise to change the fuel filter and fuel relay switch? Where's the fuel relay switch?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,066
Likes: 3
From: Milpitas ca
The fuel pump relay is located under the dash on the passenger side. You will have to remove the lower dash panel. Start by removing the air/heat vent by popping the center of the vent out and there will be two screws (Torques head) holding the vent in place, once the screws are removed the vent will pop out. Remove the side panel around and covering the fuses open and remove the fuse panel door you will see three screws that hold the side panel under the side panel there are two screws. After the side panel and the two screws are removed there are three nuts (10mm) where the air/heat vent was once removed the under dash panel can be removed carefully. Once the panel is loose disconnect the light and the panel can be set aside, you will see a small black box you will have to remove the cover and it does not tell you which one of the relays is the fuel pump relay. Good Luck.
PS. Your Fuel Filter should be changed every 2 years anyway as regular maintenence.
PS. Your Fuel Filter should be changed every 2 years anyway as regular maintenence.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Enid Oklahoma
Received my new fuel pump today and installed it...pretty easy task. Put the keys in the ignition, heard the fuel pump, and started right up. Cranked it a few more times, and fired right up. I will gave it a shake down run tomorrow, hopefully I won't have to call another wrecker. Thanks for the advice, I'll keep my fingers crossed.
