Can someone point me in the right direction on removing a dash pad? I have a 88 35th anniversary that I want to replace the bread box with the flat panel. To do it the correct way involves removal of the dash pad. I am not sure what is all involved to remove the top. I also want to make sure that when I put it back into place I don't have any rattles or squeaks. It has been pretty solid without a problem and I don't want to start with problem noises now. If you have any pics on how to do it, that would be great. Thanks in advance!

 

Removing the dash is a pretty simple job, just have to be careful not to break anything, stuff gets pretty brittle after 20 years so go easy. There should be 5 screws under the front of the dash pad 3 above the speedo/tach bezel and 2 above the center defrost vent bezel, I removed both of those pieces and also the a-pillar trim I think some will say you don't have to do that but it made access to the phillip screws a lot easier and also sliding the dash out, there are also 2 long screws in the dashpad defroster vent in the center of the dash close to the windshield. Also check under the dash on pass side some models have a screw there too, mine didn't but it's an 86. There's 4 clips on the bottom of the dashpad that slide into retainers in the dash so when you pull the dash out you can't lift up on it you have to pull it straight toward you, if you put upward pressure you'll snap the front clips there plastic and it don't take too much pressure to break them, (rattle waiting to happen) if the dash has never been out it will take a good pull to release it. At this point it's just a matter of sliding the dash pad out past the steering wheel and getting it out of your way. Your right that will give you good access to the breadbox and pretty easy to cut the rivets and get it out. When your putting the dash back in a little grease on the spring clips will help a lot make sure you get them all in the slots or guess what (rattles). Sorry no pics. Good luck, hope this helps maybe someone else will offer some tips.

 

Thank you Rich. How hard was it to remove the a-pillar?

 

I'd like to hear/see this also, mine is bought and waiting to go in....

 

It is kind of a pita because the ends slip under the center moulding so that means you have to loosen that, I would probably try it without removing the a-pillar mldgs but when I did mine it seemed like it was a tight fit so I just took them off.

 

When you have the dash top off, you might want to look at the nut holding the dash sub-structure to the 'A' pillar at the extreme left above the headlight switch....bet its broken or at least cracked. If it is, let me know, I have a fix that seems to work well (for me anway).

Lloyd

 

I didn't take any pics but when I replaced my breadbox it only took me an hour or two. Was a pretty simple job. Just make sure you get all the screws out that hold the dash pad to the dash. Some of them are hard to find.

 

I must be doing something wrong. I located all the screws going into the dash top, but I need to remove the bezel over the speedo and tach. The problem is I don't know how to get the headlight **** out without breaking. Plus I have a radar detector that was installed when the car was delivered, the kind mounted under the dash pad right between the speedo and tach. I am not normally this dumb when it comes to this. I work on cars all the time, but being the age of this one and I have not had any rattles or noise you become a little skitish. Am I just being to cautious or am I missing something...

 

The headlight **** is held on by a triangle retainer inside the ****. This gave me trouble too. I just pulled it to get it off. Getting it to back on tight was a little difficult.

 

It can be difficult as Wayne said held on by a metal spring clip, if you look at the back of the **** you'll see a slot if you put a hook pic or some kind of tool in that slot and pull towards you the **** should pop off, don't feel bad it is a pia to get off.

 

I tried pulling it off, but felt like I was going to yank the entire switch through the bezel.

 

There are 8 screws holding the pad to the dash sub-structure. If your dash has never been removed, they will all be there. To repeat from previous posts: 2 above the center a/c ducts, 2 above the gauge cluster, 2 long ones in the defrost outlet and 1 on each end of the pad. You should be able to remove all the screws without removing the bezel. If you have these off, the dash will come off.....it may be stuck the first time removed. The headlight switch **** is removed as follows: disconect the battery(to keep the headlights from cycling open), pull the headlights on and reach your finger down between the dash sub-structure and the light switch...you will feel a little spring loaded button like every GM headlight switch in the last 50 years. Push this in and pull the **** and shaft out of the switch, you can then remove the cluster bezel...trying to pull the **** off the shaft is hard and you may break the bezel.

 

Thanks Lloyd and everyone else for all your help with this. I can see all the screws except for the 8th one you say is on the other side of the pad. I am assuming you are talking the passenger side. 3 above the speedo area, 2 above the vents, 2 in the defrost vent, but I don't see the other. The screws on the driver side are just past the top bezel and not allowing to get a philps in there to unscrew them unless you know of a way. Thats why I can't get to the light switch on the inside to remove the stem.

 

I must admit that I just pulled the headlight **** hard enough to get it to come off. Pretty much a bubba move. I much prefer the sound of the advice given above though. I can see where depressing the point of the triangular spring clip would completely solve the problem of removal and make it easier to reinstall successfully without it being subject to coming off in your hand when you turn on the lights in the future. I just bent the spring clip out a little and it reinstalled tightly.

 

If you can't get to the screws above the cluster bezel....take it loose and pull the headlight switch all the way on (battery disconected to save the headlights from cycling up and down everytime you move the switch). Then with the bezel pulled away from the dash, you should be able to get a long phillips or a 90 degree phillips on those pesky screws.

As for the one way over on the end on the passenger side, remove the fuse box cover and door. You should see it up there. To remove the cover (after you remove the door) take the screws out and rotate the cover out and down counterclockwise...it will slide out of the weatherstrip in front without the chance of breaking it.

 

Bullseye Mine is cracked! What fix do you recommend? Thanks