I am having trouble with a 1993 not starting. I think something caused the battery to loose its charge. If I open the door and shut it, there is a "clicking" noise that starts in the area of the glove box. I checked and pulled a fuse for the CCM and the clicking noise stopped. The fuse looks OK, but I guess I'll try to replace it anyway.

The car will not even turn over, but the battery shows good charge. I think the problem might lie in the CCM. I know I have needed to replace the heater core and the CCM lies in that area. Could the need for a heater core cause an issue with the CCM?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

I don't think there's any connection between the two. I would get the battery a load check to see if it is ok or failing. There are relays in the area you describe that click when the battery is low.

 

I did get around to checking the battery and it was low so I got a replacement. The previous one was less than a year old. However, when I hooked up the battery, it still will not start. No crank at all.

The control panel will show various messages, like normal. The gauges seem to work...battery gauge shows about normal.

The security light that normally flashes does not and the speedometer area does not light up.

I tried my back up key, but that did nothing.

Its in the garage and sure don't want to tow it if I can help it!

Any thoughts?

 

Next step would be check for DTC"S. Are you familiar with the procedure? If not the site below will get you started.

http://www.corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/index.htm

 

The clicking you hear is a relay that cycles when the battery voltage is really low. Measure your battery voltage at the battery terminals, 12.0 volts and below, discharged, 12.9 volts and above, fully charged. Most likely you have excessive leakage current that discharges your battery. Charge your battery up first with a battery charger. Use the search function for leakage current, I have typed diagnostic instructions for this problem well over 100 times and the following diagnostic for no cranking I have typed more than 350 times and I copied it from an answer I gave earlier today. Good luck, ask more questions AFTER you measure your battery and go through the following diagnostic:

Unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw if auto) and jump the connector and measure the voltage on the jumper when you hit crank position. If you have 12v and no cranking, then you have a defective starter solenoid or starter, bad battery connection, discharged or a battery at the end of its life. If no 12v, then pull the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from above the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector and unplug. Insert ign key and measure the resistance across the 2 wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as the pellet. If more than 4% from the pellet or over 13k ohms, you need a new ign lock which will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS until you can get the new lock by connecting a fixed resistor across the two wires from the wiring harness (goes to VATS module) the same value as your pellet. You can use 1/4 watt 5% resistor/s from Radio Shack. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.

 

Well, I found the problem. I had checked the fuses when all this got started a few weeks ago and left the cover to the fuse panel lying on the passenger floor. When I picked up the panel to put it back in place, low and behold, there was a 5amp fuse lying on the floor that just happened to be the CCM fuse. I pu the fuse back in and she started right up. Is it my lucky day or what!

Thanks for all the feedback and dedication to helping all of us newbies rolling!

 

Interesting, considering that is exactly what you said in your first post.