I have a 95. When my doors are closed, the interior lights will sometimes stay on and the door ajar light will be lit. When driving down the road, the lights (both interior and dash indicator) will flicker when I hit bumps, or just at random. Sometimes while this happens the door locks will start trying to either lock (if in the unlocked position) or unlock (if in the locked position). A Corvette shop suggested that I replace the door switch that lets the car know when the door is open or closed. I replaced that switch and the problem still occurs. Now the lock mechanism on the drivers side door is starting to bind up and I have trouble unlocking it with the key. When the car is parked, the interior lights will sometimes turn on and then the alarm will start going off, as if someone has broken into the car. The shop is telling me that it's the switch, but I don't think it is because the old switch I took out tested good on a multi meter. Could my power door lock mechanism be causing this problem?

I forgot to mention: Also, when I go to unlock the drivers side door i feel resistance both with the key, and when I try to lock/unlock it manually from the interior

 

I just had the identical problem with my 95 vert. It was the passenger side door ajar switch. You said switch not switches. I would check both door switches. I don't own a coupe so I don't know how it's wired but check and see if the rear hatch ajar switch is on the same circuit as the door switches.

 

One other thought -- sometimes the door switch's self-adjusting 'nose' gets pushed in too far and doesn't allow the switch to be pushed in enough when the door is closed.

What worked for our 94 was to carefully pull the self-adjusting nose out a small amount, and then place 2 small rubber o-rings behind its 'face'. It then causes the switch to contact the door jam plastic button earlier and keeps the door switch depressed the correct amount.

 

Regarding the lock that doesn't want to turn - it couldn't hurt to spray some graphite in there. It may not cure the problem, but it sure can't hurt anything.

 

had the same problem. Replaced the passenger door ajar switch which fixed the problem. Lights would flicker, locks would cycle, same issue....

 

hi
95 LT 1 had the same problem, lnterior lights would come on when driving, flicker,VAT worked some times - darned horn went off at midnite. Checked passenger door switch - yup it was bad. Our club hosted Gordon Killebrew. He found the bad switch, so i changed the passenger switch to driver side - with his careful eye. Be careful there is a self tapping washer inside the door when you take out one bolt use a paper clip or some thing to hang on to it. Of course i found that out after it dropped but there is a hole in the bottom of the door - use an extention magnet and you have it. I used fishing line and a magnet tied to it dropped it in from where the switch goes and pulled it back up put one of the bolts in it and felt good. Tie wired the harness and taped when the new one came in could find it.

All was great for about 3 days and battery dead ---0 charge....
put a trickler on it no luck - so I jump started it no problems other then darned lights flickering when driving. After 3 days of that I brought it to a shop with Vette mech. explained the problem, went right to the rear hatch and there was the problem. About 6 or 8 switches connect - think 3 in each door, steering column, Fob, and rear hatch --
I'm am ole gear head - give me nuts and bolts, 1 wire goes here and i am fine. Long story short $800 later it works like new..

the manuel didnt guide me, no one in our club had a clue so when it says CORVETTE - it means $$$$ -- dont think I go screwed kinda sound like it - but i saw all the parts he replaced, sure enough bad connections, burnt ends. If I'da known that i would have unplugged the darn thing adn just use the fliippen key - not worry about inside lights
Oh well gotta love um --

 

Wow, well it's 2024 and this started happening to me. I actually just replaced all the inner bits of my 94 after someone smashed the window out. Replaced the window and regulator myself, and bought a brand new switch while I was at it. Well for some reason it started happening but here is the kicker and a question - in parallel my antenna was not going down all the way, so I removed the antenna and thought I could open it up and take out the likely broken piece, but could not so reinstalled and just trimmed the white plastic piece with teeth. I may have trimmed it too much bc now when car was on, I could hear the motor inside still trying to do something (extend the antenna) while driving. Then this door ajar light started. So, I disconnected the antenna wire from up underneath the rear plastic panel under the hatch, so it does not ride up when car aux turned on, however the interior lights are still on - and then my driver door actuator starts vibrating - so disconnected battery and called it a day. Any thoughts? Could all this be related? Thanks.

 

I think you’ve got separate, yet annoying issues. In order to open your antenna motor unit you have to drill out the plastic rivets and throw them in the trash. Get a new antenna mast kit with ribbon for $30. Clean out the gear box by removing old grease and grime and broken mast ribbon pieces. Pay mind to the orientation of the mast ribbon teeth when you take apart. After you clean and grease the gears reinstall them in the correct order. Be minduld and take photos when disassembling because the washer spacers and all that have to be where they need to be for the gears to rotate freely from one another. Reinstall the cover with short stainless screws. Put unit back in without the new mast. Turn the radio and car on or at least key on so the motor turns as if sending antenna up. Have someone turn radio off as you feed the mast ribbon in the hole. Reinstall the nut and grommet and you’re done. 2-3 hours of work and a bit of swearing is all it takes. You will need to remove your plate and tail lights to gain access to the ground strap screws but seems you probably know this already. The other issue is probably the new door ajar switch. Plunger is not going all the way in when door closed. Pull the body pin from the door frame, get a new one and install a plastic washer behind it so it sticks out a bit more. This will send the plunger in further when the door is closed so the switch is not sitting on the breaking point of the car not knowing if the door is closed or open.

 

thank you so much! I may try to fix the antenna. For now I bought a $30 antenna unit that I plan to place in the interior trim for reception and just leave the mast down all the time. I also think I had either a defective door switch or it was not seated in the connector all the way. I ordered a new one. Thanks again for the valuable tips!

 

No problem. Both are somewhat common issues that have definitely been discussed before. There are good videos on YouTube with detailed information on both including part numbers for the door parts I referenced. They are Dorman parts available at advance auto and other places.

 

That’s the door ajar switch video. Figured I’d make it easy for you.