trulytex

Well, a couple years ago, I had a VATS Issue with my '90 Vert. I replaced the Starter Enable Relay, as well as grounding it to the IP frame as to Bypass it. I got the fix from Gordon Killebrew. He told me to ground the Purple wire to the Instrument Panel Frame. It worked like a champ.

Well, now the Fuel Enable Relay doesn't work about every 5th start or so. I am going to replace the Relay, but I wonder if anyone knows which wire should be grounded to bypass it as well.

FICINJECTORS

HERE YA GO

http://www.vatssucks.com/

All2kool

Grounding wires to bypass VATS? Don't think that can be done. I've disabled VATS before in an '89 Trans Am. Here's how:

The VATS is controlled by the ECM. Changing locks (PITA) will only work if the key stays the same VATS number, of which there are 15 possibilities. Disabling your VATS would be a solution. Go to a locksmith, they will test your key and be able to sell you a module to disable VATS. Remove the underdash panel on the driver side. You should easily spot a two-wire grouping, I believe yellow/orange/green and white, just to the right of the steering column (as it was on my 1989 TA). You should notice that it disconnects in the middle. Disconnect it, insert the module you got from the locksmith into the wire going towards the firewall. Voila, VATS is now disabled. The module will cost you $25 - and your car will never not start because of VATS. It actually took me longer to remove the under dash panel than it did to locate the wire and insert the module.

spatz406

After being stranded more than a few times, whenever I drive my Vette, I don't turn it off. Will the VATS system activate If I don't use the key or manually lock the doors? Can anyone speculate?

WVZR-1

You tagged a 8+ year old thread and maybe you need to explain a little better. Have you attempted to by-pass VATS at all? Does your car just NOT CRANK if you shut it off and then rotate the key expecting CRANK?

Theft, locks and VATS is all separate but often discusses in combination and that's not the way to approach it.

Is your car an A4 or an M6 - do you know if you have a valid key for the car that matches the CCM or have you maybe done a key & cylinder and now don't have or don't know if you have a valid resistance.

spatz406

Haven't done any by pass work. Original lock cylinder and keys came with car. Every 2-5 months, when I turn the key, dash lights come on, but starter won't engage. I then keep turning the key over and over(which I have learned from reading here) which resets VATS 5 additional minutes per turn), and bout 30 minutes or so, it starts right up.

spatz406

What does M6, A4 mean? As far as I can tell, I have the base model..?

WVZR-1

Automatic or manual transmission and what does the car do?

The rest of what I mentioned doesn't relate to A4 or M6

spatz406

I have the 6 speed manual trans.

WVZR-1

I'd say you first need to address the starter relay and the clutch operated safety switch. I'd think it's very likely you don't have a VATS issue at all. You've much to diagnose.

hcbph

If you have a manual, here's 2 things I've run into that can cause a starter not engaging.

First is the resistor on the key not being read. If you have a lack of contact between the key and the switch itself, that will keep the starter from engaging. You can either make your own resister pack or pick up on from many vendors that plugs in. I'd recommend not cutting the wires because of potential future issues. Read the key resistor and get the 'dongle' with the right value and the existing wires come out of the bottom of the column and has 2 wires and there's a connector about 12" out. Unplug the connector and plug the dongle into the wire that continues up the dash. IIRC one of the wires is orange but I can't swear to it.

The other is the clutch switch. It's up high on the clutch by the pivot. Pull off the connector and jumper the connector, bypassing the switch. If it's the switch, it's no longer in play so that's no longer a possible cause. Be sure when doing this, remember that you can now engage the starter with the car in gear and the clutch not depressed.

Hope that helps, good luck

spatz406

Thx for yr reply. Not trying to be funny, but what is the actual name of this part that I should ask for? Is it available at auto stores or only at the Chevy dealer?

MrWillys

To learn how to bypass the starter enable relay see here:

www.vatssucks.com

You may also need it programmed out of your memcal (AKA PROM or calibration module) or it won't allow injectors to pulse.

hcbph

Dongle - old term for something that plugged in to supply license, functionality,etc.

Take a peak here, this is what I'm talking about:
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/catal...bypass&x=0&y=0

The dongle replaces the functionality of the switch reading the code off the key and passing it to the vats system with a hard wired unit that supplies that resistor value outside of the ignition column. These are also plug-and-play, you cut nothing other than just unplug the connector and plug this in.

spatz406

O.k., thx for the reply. One last question: how do I determine the code number of the unit that I need?

PatternDayTrader

The lock cylinder is a pattern failure item on every one of these cars with tilt steering. It's failure can cause symptoms like those that you are suffering from.

spatz406

Thx for your reply. Is the dealer the best place to take the car to have the lock cylinder replaced, or can a locksmith do the job for (presumably) less money?
😃

WVZR-1

This is a '90 M6 that is known for both clutch operated safety issues but more widely starter enable relay issues. There's no way it's reasonable to replace a key cylinder without knowing it's actually the failure that needs addressed. If you've a starter enable relay issue even after the key/cylinder you'll still have the issue.

It needs diagnosed correctly ...............

A search from "SEARCH THIS FORUM" button on the C$ Generation link above "threads/posts" for starter enable bypass should get you maybe 25 or 30 reads that include the enable and clutch switch PLUS VATS

Do your search from this link:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-1984-1996-19/

Replacing a VATS lock cylinder means that your current keys become "trash" and will no longer work, you'll need the cylinder and then keys that aren't inexpensive when doing the buy local. They're not inexpensive anywhere, although some will argue eBay does well. Depends what you're rewarded with in the purchase. Not understanding what's going on makes you very susceptible to some very high repair prices.

spatz406

K..thx for yr reply. Will start with the relay. Btw, assuming I know my key "chip" resistance, how do I get the code in order to get the correct VATS by-pass plug in that I saw in Eckler's catalog?

WVZR-1

How many keys do you have? I'd think the safest most realistic thing for you to do is take your key (s) to a GM parts department and ask them to "drop the key" or check the VATS CODE. They'll know what you mean. If you have multiples have them all validated.

I didn't mean to start with the relay but RATHER MEANT read and maybe try to get a grasp of the possible diagnostics.

Maybe if you generally have someone/shop work on your car for you - you could maybe discuss what you read with them and devise a plan to actually diagnose your real issue.