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'96 CE AC controller removal

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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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Default '96 CE AC controller removal

Problem: No air thru dash vents. They used to come on after 5-10 minutes of driving, but no more.

Read a ton of threads. I checked the vaccum connector under pass. side fuel rail cover. Everything looks fairly new and most everyone that said replacing it, fixed their problem, said it fell a part in their hands. Also it did not rattle when shaken and seemed to seal and release just find when blown on. I found the AC controller and removed the one nut keeping it in place. But I'm not sure how to remove the peice that the lines are attached to on the outside corner of the box. I don't see it in the pictures I've looked at. It's a soft rubber bluish piece that appears to be over the black nipples that everyone says to trim back. Also I've heard that the electrical connection is hard to remove. Thanks for any the help.

Side note: If I can get in and out from under that dash almost anyone should be able. Last week I had shoulder surgery and can't use my left side at all.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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and props to you for getting under there after shoulder surgery. I hope you took the seat out!! Rotator cuff?

Anyway, it's been about a year since I did this, but there was not anything covering the rubber nipples, if memory is correct. Are you trying to remove the rubber nipples and replace it with a pre 96 controller that is plastic?

I fixed mine by just trimming the nipples back about 1/4 of an inch. The rubber is very flexible at the top, but stiffen up as you cut them back as the material thickens. The cause of your problem is that the nipples are collapsing. This cost $0 and fixed my old 96 LT4 and the previous owner of the one I have now did the same thing right before I purchased it (part of the deal). Both work like a champ after doing this.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 04:49 PM
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Yes, rotor cuff. First I pulled the cover under the dash. I didn't think I would get very far. I pulled the seat cushion out but left the track. In the pictures I've seen there is the nipples and their numbered. Are you saying that the colored vac. lines are connected directly to the nipples? Because I have a bluish piece of soft rubber in that spot with the vac lines connected to that. It looks OEM. Might be a modification. I've read a lot of threads and can't find any reference to it. Any tips on removing the electrical connection?
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by '96 Collector's
Yes, rotor cuff. First I pulled the cover under the dash. I didn't think I would get very far. I pulled the seat cushion out but left the track. In the pictures I've seen there is the nipples and their numbered. Are you saying that the colored vac. lines are connected directly to the nipples? Because I have a bluish piece of soft rubber in that spot with the vac lines connected to that. It looks OEM. Might be a modification. I've read a lot of threads and can't find any reference to it. Any tips on removing the electrical connection?
I just took another look at it. The vac. lines fit into the "nipples" of this "plug" and it looks more green than blue(not that it matters). I pulled on it and so far it won't come loose. I also tried to pull the individual vac. lines, nothing. I'm sure if I pulled hard enough on something it will give. But I'd hate to break something that isn't already broke. Anyone know how the black main line is attached on the other end? I can feel but I can't see it because its obscured by something, maybe part of the lower heat vent. I'm thinking if I un-hook it and don't have any vaccum then the problem is up the line and not necessarily the controller box.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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I believe what you're refering to is a pressed on fastener that is under the nut you removed. This holds the vacuum manifold to the controller and without removing this fastener you cannot remove the controller. I replaced this controller on a friend's '91 Vert a few months back and it's a real PITA. I'd say I was inverted under that dash for over 30 minutes working that fastener off with my fingers (I could not find any tool that could fit up in there).

Once I was done, we both agreed to not replace that $%ing fastener and just put the nut back on.
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jimg's'93
I believe what you're refering to is a pressed on fastener that is under the nut you removed. This holds the vacuum manifold to the controller and without removing this fastener you cannot remove the controller. I replaced this controller on a friend's '91 Vert a few months back and it's a real PITA. I'd say I was inverted under that dash for over 30 minutes working that fastener off with my fingers (I could not find any tool that could fit up in there).

Once I was done, we both agreed to not replace that $%ing fastener and just put the nut back on.
Thank you for your help. I have not removed a nut. I have only removed the screw that held the controller to the fire wall. I'm going to try and get picture posted tomorrow if no one can figure out what is going on.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 01:01 AM
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I would be interested in any info on this as well,my 96 auto climate system is doing the same thing no AC at the dash vents, anybody got pitures or a link to this job?
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 01:09 AM
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[QUOTE='H[]R^Cuda;1566468417']I would be interested in any info on this as well,my 96 auto climate system is doing the same thing no AC at the dash vents, anybody got pitures or a link to this job?[/QUO

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...=ac+controller
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 96 Collector's;1566468461][QUOTE='H[]R^Cuda
I would be interested in any info on this as well,my 96 auto climate system is doing the same thing no AC at the dash vents, anybody got pitures or a link to this job?[/QUO

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...=ac+controller
Great link. That's the post with the push-on fastener I was referring to. The problem I had was trying to dig in between that nest of vac tubes to be able to pry the fastener off (The fastener and tubes have been removed already in those photos.).
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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[QUOTE=jimg's'93;1566471072]
Originally Posted by '96 Collector's

Great link. That's the post with the push-on fastener I was referring to. The problem I had was trying to dig in between that nest of vac tubes to be able to pry the fastener off (The fastener and tubes have been removed already in those photos.).
The fastener is on the silver nut? Are the vac tubes connected directly to the numbered nipples?
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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If memory serves me right, the connector with the tubes slides over the threaded post on to the nipples being shown in the pictures. Next was the nut, then the push-on fastener to keep the nut from working off.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jimg's'93
If memory serves me right, the connector with the tubes slides over the threaded post on to the nipples being shown in the pictures. Next was the nut, then the push-on fastener to keep the nut from working off.
What did the connector look like?
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 01:45 PM
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PM sent
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by '96 Collector's
What did the connector look like?
Thank you to jimg's'93 for the pm.


Thank you for the diagram. Now I know that the connector I've been having trouble with is the standard item. This is the first time I have seen a picture of it. Everywhere else, all you see is the programmer with the place that the connector goes empty. I know you said it took you about 30 minutes to remove. Any ideas that will help this one arm man (for the next few weeks) remove the push nut. If it's a push nut, I'd think I could just force it off?
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 03:51 PM
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It's been too long and I forgot many of the details, but the piece you are referring to is a bird dog to get apart. I tossed the old hardware and put a regular nut on it to retain a snug connection between the two pieces.

Could you take some pictures of of the details you are describing?
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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Now all that stands between me having the AC programmer in my hands is this push-nut that looks like a washer. I've pried at it with a tiny screw driver, I've gotten a hold of it with needle nose plyers and still nothing.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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Now that, I remember. I know this sounds bad, but I just gave the box a good tug and mine poped out. I would recommend to get a lock nut to replace that thing. You are getting very close!

I still cannot believe you are doing this after surgery!!
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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I talked again with the friend I helped on this and although I thought it was just 30 minutes, he says it was over an hour that I worked on getting that press-nut off. All I can say is to have patience. I found no tool (And I'm pretty good at 'wingin' it') that helped.

BTW...if it helps, I was only able to get one hand up there.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jimg's'93
I talked again with the friend I helped on this and although I thought it was just 30 minutes, he says it was over an hour that I worked on getting that press-nut off. All I can say is to have patience. I found no tool (And I'm pretty good at 'wingin' it') that helped.

BTW...if it helps, I was only able to get one hand up there.
Thanks for all the encouragement. Of all the projects I've taken on with the help of this forum, this is the first time that all everyone can say is how hard it was to complete one of the steps, but without any advice on how to do it. I fear that when I get this pos nut off, I won't have any better advise either! One thing I did was remove the metal lower part of the dash for a little more room. I probably wouldn't have if I could use my left arm. Now I'm going to use the best way I know to fix a pita job. Sleep on it and try again tomorrow.
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Old Jul 27, 2008 | 11:53 PM
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Default Hope you took the seat out !

I took out the entire driver seat, tracks and all. laid a blanket on the floor to even out the bumps a bit, and stuck my feet up in the rear window area. It was still mighty tight in there, but I finally got everything out & back in after repairing. Easy to see and fix the vacuum problems with the little vac relay box out of the car. The vents respond instantly now with the suction going to the doors now instead of bleeding off to nowhere.
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