Hello all,

I am in the market for a C4 corvette. budget is $6000. Looking in the local craigslist there looks to be quite a few options. I have several questions and concerns I was wondering if you all could fill me in on.

My first criteria is it is a post '86. My understanding is post '86 You have ABS and the key code. ABS is very important to me, because that is all I have driven for all of my life. My first impulse in a situation requiring brakes is simply sink the pedal to the floor (this is how I was taught). Much to my friends Hyundai's tires chagrin (no abs, had to buy new tires....).I think they also changed to TPI for '86? I've heard crossfire is no good.

Next I would love a manual. I have not heard many good things about the 4+3 trans. So I would like to get a ZF6 if at all possible. Which means we have to at least be 92+. '92+ ALSO brings the LT1.
Now considering that you get 300HP, and a engine that every camaro in the world seems to have, I think that this is a really good option. Spare parts are cheap for LT1's as are rebuilt engines on craigslist. As are performance parts.

You also get traction control on the '92+. Can you turn it off? I think I actually do want traction control ( I know I know I know) because without it I will get into trouble. I am a 21 year old with 5 years of driving under my belt. Not Ken Griffith Jr. In the C6 I often drive I leave it on as it has helped me a few times.

My next question involves suspension. I know Z51 is the way to go (hehe, especially on the C6) however I'm having problems tracking that option package down. Did Chevrolet offer it all years of the C4? I can seem to find it quite often on 1980's cars....but not so much '90's+.

Also how hard to would it to retrofit into a C4 with out the Z51. on the C6 I know you just throw the different springs, sway bars and brakes and your good. You miss the additional cooling,but thats ok.

My final question is about auto to manual conversion. I did search on this one, so I understand its gonna be pricey. but in the event I cannot find a manual, I understand it will possible to convert. I have seen kits for the C3, but does anyone make a kit for the C4? I have browsed Summit racing and it looks like the D44 rear end is quite easily obtainable ( and I could put a detroit mechanical gear trutrack LSD in it )

I am really into handling, which is why I am looking into Corvette. I can get a nice camaro for a similar price, but they do not handle as well, and...well....everyone has a camaro in the college town that I live
Really I think my ultimate car is a 1992 C4 Corvette with LT1 and a 6 speed manual. For under $6k. Good luck right? lol

Sorry for the long post, But I have spent quite alot of time researching, and I am hoping you guys will have some responses that will be helpful. I know everyone hates the people that come along and ask the same stupid questions which they could have found if they had spent 2 minutes looking


Thanks for your time

 

Well first no way do a conversion just look long enough and you will find one you want. You might have to up your price a little depending on what you are gonna do with this vette. All I would buy is a 95 or 96 all the bugs were pretty much worked out by then but that is just my 2 cents.

 

I was just planning on using it as a DD.

 

Well you say that now but before you know it you will sink a ton of money in it. So why not start off with one in good shape but it depends on the money also.

 

Yes, spend more $$$$$$$$$ initially and you won't be spending $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ later. Trust me, I have read a many a story on this forum about that. I spent 10K for a 95 with the Z07 option in 2004 and it had 97K miles. It was money well spent as I have not had to spend much $$ in repairs. I have just done the basic maintenance like a $900 tune up. Just spend the money bro.

Yes, on my 95 I can turn traction control off.

You might look for a Z07 if you are interested in a suspension package. Mine has performance springs and actuators on the shocks so that you can select (from the cockpit) the ride level: touring, sport, and performance. Performance is for aggressive driving and gives a really really good feel for the road. Good luck.

 

Perfectly said that is exactly what I did and well worth it.

 

Ok, well, unfortunately, I only have $6, so i guess thats what we will go with. I mean, I can get a '85 that has a rebuilt motor, AC converted to R134A, 4+3 etc etc etc and it sounds like the owner took really good care of it for $5800. or I can get a somewhat beat up 92....I'm just not sure its worth the 220HP no trac control, etc etc for reliability sake...I'm a mechanically inclined college student who can wrench, so *shrug*

 

I bought my first vette when I was 19, and felt like I waited years to find the right one. When in reality it was only a matter of months. My price range was low, like yours at the time, (7 years ago). My father convinced me to take a reasonable loan and buy the car that I wanted, instead of spending money I needed for insurance. I ended up with a bone stock 95, and loved every minute of it. It had absolutely no extra bells and whistles, and thus no extra costly repairs. Take your time, save your money and get the car you want.

 

I bought my car when I was 18, having never bought a car that was test driveable. I thought, "Oh, I'll find a Vette that needs some work on the cheap." After looking online at several cars in the fix it up bracket, I realized to make them minty in the cosmetics department would cost me more than buying a maintained car in nice shape, so I went the route of a minty car versus a project car.

If someone is selling a Vette because it needs mechanical repair, most of the time it looks, drives like(if it drives) and seems like a piece of s*** it probably is. Say the engine blows on their car; even if the block isn't reusable(say the bore is screwed from a thrown rod) but the car is in good shape, the owner most likely would fix or pay to fix the car. Cosmetics are where the money is spent, mechanicals on the Vette are quite inexpensive.

I bought an 87 Convertible with the automatic transmission(didn't want the 4+3). Why? Perfect paint(there is still not a rockchip anywhere 4 years after the paintjob), low miles(45k), recent top and windshield(roofing shingle f'ed it up in 03), brand new wheels and tires, recent stainless exhaust and receipts showing maintenance was done from day 1 with quality parts. I have had little stuff break, stuff with rubber seals in it failed because they degraded over time and I had several small sensors go(coolant level sensor, MAF, oil temp gauge sensor). I'm still happy with my purchase 2.5 years and 13k miles later.

Don't buy a car with a s***load of miles because if you drive it, that high number gets higher and the pool of prospective buyers(should you sell later) gets smaller and smaller as will the value.

Don't bother with an auto to manual conversion; it will be cheaper to buy a stick shift car than convert an auto. As far as the 4+3, that was 84-88, 89-96 offered the ZF6 as its stick shift.

Regarding the $6k, spend more money.

 

89 first year for the ZF6 spd. better brakes, window regulators, etc. Last year for "Star wars" dash.90-91 still TPI...90-newer interior, old front and rear bumper. 91 Last yr for TPI-New front and rear bumper. 92 first year for LT1, used the LTx block, optispark ign.


You can find one (A TPI car) for 6k, just gotta be patient and look. Dont buy a major project if you can help it even if the price seems tempting.

 

Your talking about trans swaps, and what not your all over the place, Spend the money !

 

Well I know where you are comming from with the price range. Alot of people will tell you if you cant afford a good one, you cant afford to fix a bad one, probebly true. I recently bought one in your price range (is also my price range). Since I bought I it have put maybe close to another grand into. Mind you none of the stuff i have done is stuff that HAD to be done to drive it, its stuff like Fixing cracked dash, replacing trim pieces, etc.. The parts on the motor so far seem pretty normal priced, but vette only parts (body, interior, etc) are not cheap in any sence of the word. For your price range make sure you can "WRENCH' on it, and I mean really have the ability, becuase you will be working on it some. The buy the "best one you can afford" is great advice and I agree 100%, but some of us have alot less income then others.. and somtimes $6000 is all you can really spend. I myslef think you can get a good car for that price, I dont think your going to get a showcar, not even close. But if its what you can afford, and you want one. The other advice giving here alot is alos GREAT, keep looking till you are sure, it took me 2 years (unfortnatly, but that is my loacation, just not alot of them around here).

Good luck, keep asking questions and let us know if you do get one.

Oh, i have the 4+3 and was also worried about it, but if you do lots of reading, they are not so bad if they have been maintained (but how do you know that?).

Clok

 

With that budget I would eliminate convertibles. Buy the straighest car you can find. Might find nice 92-94 car straight but with higher miles! Avoid projects unless that is your thing. If you really want a stick I would recommend the 89-91 cars. Most of all enjoy the hunt and don't get in a hurry! JMHO but have bought about 50 Vettes since 1969.

 

Quoted for truth.

I learned this with the first Vette I ever had. A beautiful 1980 that was the ultimate $ pit. Unless your willing to be turning wrenches quite often maybe save up a little more and get something that willnot need as much attention.

 

Well the search continues, all the cheap vette's seem to be automatic *scratches head* its usually the other way around. my friend let me borrow her 2005 C6 4a vette for over a month, and I hated that automatic the entire time. so I really want a 6m


I know, I should just give in a buy a 2000 Nissan or honda, about the same price...but what fun is that lol

 

Actually, since you're on a limited budget, I'd still consider the early C4's with tune port since they're about the cheapest to work on. These cars are old, and there's a good chance the traction control won't work anymore on a 6K car approaching 20 years old anyway. Most car guys would rather NOT have that option, just drive it correctly and don't rely on an old computer to do it for you.

Regardless of what you buy be prepared to work on it and spend $ on it. Ditto on what others have said about buying the best car you can find for the money. This is a good time to buy, just be patient. Also check out autotraderonline, lots of vettes there.