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How long does it normally take (the air presure, none remove heads method?) I have done seals when i did valve jobs before (20 years ago). With the correct spring compressor, how long can a guy plan on for this project? Do you guys all make sure the piston is TDS on each cylinder when doing this?
the smoke on starte up while nothing really is embaresing.
Jim, You have an 87. How did you deal with the EGR pipe? DId you remove the exhaust manifold as the FSM suggests, or did you wrestle with the clamp? I've got everything to do the job, and I'm hesitating because of that one thing.
Same here - I'd estimate I took 8 hours this spring. Booked a couple of days vacation that I had to burn up or lose and spent them - just me and the vette in my garage. Took my time, and played things doubly cautious, by rotating the crank so each piston was just a bit before TDC and used air. Once the valve springs were removed, I just shut the compressor off and let the valves sit on top of the pistons while I puttered away. Clamped a set of vice grips with rubber hoses on the jaws on the crank pulley and wedged against the front cross bar otherwise the crank would rotate when I put the air in the cylinder. I seem to remember using about 70 lbs when tapping the retainer to loosen it from the keepers and about 35 lbs when re-installing the seals, springs, keepers etc. A very rewarding job when it's done!
Last edited by pletzvet; Aug 13, 2008 at 11:18 AM.
Jim, You have an 87. How did you deal with the EGR pipe? DId you remove the exhaust manifold as the FSM suggests, or did you wrestle with the clamp? I've got everything to do the job, and I'm hesitating because of that one thing.
When I did mine getting the clamp off the egr pipe was a PIA but I was able to knock it off with a long punch. I never did put it back on, I straightened it out and put in in my tool box in case i had a problem but I haven't so far. I just set the pipe in place and tightend the manifold bolts so far so good.
I haven't done this but the rope trick is stuffing a quality length of rope into the sparkplug hole until no more rope will fit easily and then squishing an extra inch or so in. If the crank turns and the valve falls it will be on soft rope fiber and not on a hard piston top.
I haven't done this but the rope trick is stuffing a quality length of rope into the sparkplug hole until no more rope will fit easily and then squishing an extra inch or so in. If the crank turns and the valve falls it will be on soft rope fiber and not on a hard piston top.
Just a slightly different theory...I've only used the rope trick on small engines to keep the crank from rotating when removing a clutch or flywheel (e.g. lawn mowers, sleds). My understanding of the rope trick is to insert some rope through the spark plug hole, when the piston is approaching TDC, then when there is a sufficient amount of rope in the cylinder, turn the crank a little more until it stops because the rope is now compressed against the head and the valves. This will keep the valves from dropping when the keepers are removed and then the seals can be changed with the full length of the stem accessible to you. A bit tedious because you have to turn the crank in reverse to release the pressure on the rope in order to remove it from the cylinder - but it will work!