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Is it possible to connect a wet/dry vac to a hose of sorts and pull the engine coolant water rather than the traditional removal of the knock sensor, opening the petcock, etc. ? I need to replace the ECT and I don't have the jack/stands so I'm looking for an alternate method...
It would seem that if you did this with a hose attached to the vac. you would probably only get to the lowest point in the radiator and the points between the block and the radiator. I don't think you would be able to remove the coolant below these points.
If you don't have jack stands.....what about driving it up onto wood blocks (2x6's stacked) or something like that. All you have to do is raise the car up far enough to be able to get a wrench on the plug and knock sensor.
I think it would work if you pulled from the lower hose and you need to remove the T-stat so you get CFM. It would take a while and you need a hefty Vac motor 6 HP or so. Not sure if this is easier or not......
But I've pulled out a lot of _ _ _ _ with my shop vac in the past. just be sure to clean it out prior to starting the operation...ask me how I know
Last edited by jhammons01; Sep 1, 2008 at 04:25 PM.
You are on the right track. Put the hose on the blow side, open radiator petcock, place bucket under it and put the hose over the fill opening.
In less than 90 seconds you've drained the system of all the old coolant. No jacks, no knock sensor hassle.
Thanks to all for the reply and especially the encouragment! Is the petcock located on driver or passenger side? Is it accessible from the top or bottom? Is it on the motor side or outside? I looked and all I can see is the fan shroud and lower hose. Should the surge tank cap be hard to remove. This puppy is on tight!
The drain petcock is on the bottom right side and can be tight. Careful don't break it off. The radiator cap is on the passenger side next to firewall. Push down and turn Lefty Lucy. If you don't feel confident take her to a dealer or get help from a mechanic type friend. And keep the old coolant away from dogs and cats or any critters. They love it and it's curtains.
You'll see in order, The radiator cap, the Oil cooler line, the coolant sensor, the lower radiator hose, the lower oil cooler line, then the petcock.
It is hard to reach, I can only get mine with a pair of channel locks from underneath......kind of contorted. and be careful not to break it 'cause it is plastic.
You'll see in order, The radiator cap, the Oil cooler line, the coolant sensor, the lower radiator hose, the lower oil cooler line, then the petcock.
It is hard to reach, I can only get mine with a pair of channel locks from underneath......kind of contorted. and be careful not to break it 'cause it is plastic.
PAPER or PLASTIC? Why on earth would Chevy use a plastic petcock for this operation? Unreal!
Might as well be plastic the tanks are.
Druther break the valve than the tank.
Any one know for sure the valve opens counterclockwise or backa$$wards like some of them do.
Opening the wrong way would definitely break something.
I know for a fact that it loosens counter clockwise.
And like I said, the only way I can break it loose is with a small size set of channel locks from underneath.......I reach up there..... get my channel locks on it and get just enough umph on it with the channel locks....then I can use my fingers from the top. But trying to break it loose is difficult cause you can't get your hands in the right position.
I'm not sure why that petcock is plastic.....but it seems all the makers use plastic for that part.
You are on the right track. Put the hose on the blow side, open radiator petcock, place bucket under it and put the hose over the fill opening.
In less than 90 seconds you've drained the system of all the old coolant. No jacks, no knock sensor hassle.
Yup. That's exactly how I flush my complete cooling system. Reverse-thrust your Shop-Vac and let the air pressure do the work for you by BLOWING the coolant out.
You'll need a vacuum with a minimum of 2 peak horsepower to be effective, though.