hey guys, I know this has been covered many times but I can't find it in the archives. My 89 decided it will only start when it gets real good and ready. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil and still it won't start all of the time. I've replaced the battery and checked all of the connections. It will turn over but won't catch. I took it to the garage that I have been using for over 30 years and would trust with anything I own. He checked it out and concluded it had to be in the VATS but told me he wasn't comfortable trying to fix it. I know I've seen other threads but can't seem to find one for my 89. It looks like it has to be different from the 84 to 86 or 87 models. Anyway, what do I have to do to get this thing fixed or just bypass the whole thing all together. My wife drives my car sometimes and I hate the fact it might leave her stranded somewhere. It really frost my butt to think I might have to take this to a dealer, THANKS.

 

If you think its the VATS buy the by-pass www.corvettecentral.com
For me it was the old key......the spare key fixed it.
You'll hear folks say if you bypass that joke VATS that someone will steal your car.
So what.........

 

Last year I had two new keys made and generally use the same one and keep the extra for "just in case". When I started having this problem I switched keys to see if that helped. It didn't. I drove the car today and it started right up but when I parked it and tried to restart, it wouldn't. Motor turns over fine and it sounds like it is trying to catch but doesn't.

 

Try this floor the gas pedal, if it starts faster its a leaking injector causing a flooded condition.

 

silly question but have you checked the fuel filter ?

 

Before we blame the VATS...or anything else...let's do some troubleshooting, shall we?

OK...An internal combustion engine requires three things to run. Just 3.

1. Suitable compression.
2. A suitable air/fuel mixture
3. A suitably strong spark delivered at the correct time.

Everything else is fluff. If those three conditions are met, it runs. Period.

Now...what needs to happen is during a no-start condition (I gather that the problem is intermittent), you need to run some tests to determine which of the three above is at fault. I'll help by eliminating the first right off the bat. If it runs sometimes, it has good compression.

That leaves us with the fuel and ignition/emission systems. We need to eliminate one. Sooo...when it won't start, hook a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Turn the key to the run position and leave it. The ECM will cause the fuel pump to run for approx 2 seconds and then shut off if the engine isn't cranked. The gauge should read between 38-44 psi. The pressure should also hold for a reasonable amount of time before bleeding off....ie....several minutes. If you have fuel pressure between 38-44 psi, and it holds, and the car still won't start, the problem is either ignition or ecm related (which, of course, includes VATS). But let's eliminate a fuel delivery issue before we go poking around elsewhere. If the pressure is flaky or doesn't hold, we need to look at a pump/regulator/pulsator/filter issue.

I would hope your trusted garage already tested this during a no-start condition. Ask the mechanic for the results of the test.

If the fuel system tests out OK, then we look at ignition system. Since you've already replaced so many components with no change, I would next have the ignition module tested. Also ensure that it has a sufficient coating of the module grease under it. Check all distributor connections....remove, clean, reinstall. Once you've ruled out anything distributor related, use a noid light and verify that the ECM is firing the injectors.

Have you checked for any stored codes in the ECM?

If you've gone through all of this and it still won't start, you have an (intermittent) open circuit somewhere in the ignition system, or a VATS issue. Try cleaning the resistor on the key and / or using a different VATS key. You can, of course, bypass the VATS completely.

This should get you started. The problem is there....hiding from you. A little detective work and it will rear it's ugly head....

 

Dude you never told me all the f------k rain as coming?

 

You never asked. Welcome to desert old friend

 

Thanks a lot to FRIZLEFRAK for all of the help.
I put a meter on the fuel rail and had 42 lbs. I also put the gas to the floor after i tried unsucessfully to start it and after turning over a couple times it started. The fuel filter was recently changed along with the battery. It also seems like once it is running all of the cyls. are firing except the # 1 cyl. With help from you guys, and a lot of thanks to FRIZLEFRAK it sounds like I have an injector problem. Anyway, that's what I'm going to work on next. Tahnks a lot and I'll let you know if this solves my problem....

 

Red Baron....try a noid light on your injectors and see if #1 is firing (actually, check all of them). Also, if it starts with the pedal to the floor, the ECM is seeing a flooded condition (to the floor is interpreted at "clear flood mode").

When you say #1 isn't firing when running, do you mean the injector or the spark plug isn't firing? Which test confirmed this?

Quick question....did it hold fuel pressure for several minutes, or did it bleed down quickly after shutting the key off?

A leaking injector(s) would cause a rapid bleed down, and would also create a flooded condition that could cause difficult restarts. Holding the pedal to the floor would clear that condition. If it's bleeding down quickly, we need to run some tests and find out where the fuel is going.

The problem shall rear it's ugly head and be conquered!

 

Had a similar prob with my 88. I changed everything from the fuel pump forward. It was a bad ECM and 2 MAF burn off relays,Check it out.