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Anyone have any ideas on how to fix the rubber molding around the back of my hatch on my 91? Looking for ideas on what to do. Should I just buy the entire piece around the back, or is there a way i can patch it?
the original rear hatch on my 90 was excellent except for the corners - the seams let go. not wanting to drop $100 or so on new, i search around and found a black rubberized "super" glue -
i cleaned the mating surfaces with solvent, applied a thin layer to both - held together for a couple minutes, and so far, its holding like a champ. i've used it on other weatherstripping repairs - seems like great stuff...
I just replaced mine with the Wilcox rear last weekend that I bought during their last sale. Fit is excellent and the corners are reineforced. Cant go wrong at $50. Dont forget to buy some 3m weatherstrip adhesive cleaner. Your going to need it to clean and remove all the white goop out of the channel.
I just replaced mine with the Wilcox rear last weekend that I bought during their last sale. Fit is excellent and the corners are reineforced. Cant go wrong at $50. Dont forget to buy some 3m weatherstrip adhesive cleaner. Your going to need it to clean and remove all the white goop out of the channel.
What did you use in place of the white goop(white lithium grease?) And is that the only place you put anything, in the corners?
What did you use in place of the white goop(white lithium grease?) And is that the only place you put anything, in the corners?
Nothing. The Wilcox piece has a grey style sealant deep inside the channel bead. All you need to buy for this repair is the cleaner and a whole bunch of papertowels or cotten rags. Frankly Its a mess to remove all the factory sealant and will take about 30-40 mins to do the cleaning right. The rest of the work is in removing the rear tray package area and the surround piece and lossening the halo etc etc. Its a 2 hour job easy
Last edited by Goldcylon; Nov 7, 2008 at 01:25 PM.
Nothing. The Wilcox piece has a grey style sealant deep inside the channel bead. All you need to buy for this repair is the cleaner and a whole bunch of papertowels or cotten rags. Frankly Its a mess to remove all the factory sealant and will take about 30-40 mins to do the cleaning right. The rest of the work is in removing the rear tray package area and the surround piece and lossening the halo etc etc. Its a 2 hour job easy
Thanks a lot
So you do have to remove the trim around the halo too?
Also, how do you trim at the bottom of the shock off?
Remove the trim (three screws) that surround each of the bottom of the shock mounts. Then insert a small flat jewelers screwdriver into the release clip and remove the bottom of the shock. Pull the tirm and replace the shock to hold it up and the glass back into place. Be careful as one shock WILL not hold the weight of the hatch. Use a piece of wood or a friend to hold the Glass during this process. Yes the Halo can be loosened and the tirm strip surround pulled out of the way. That halo trim is just like door edge guard (no big del)The Halo does not need to be removed but it is easier with it out of the way. Good luck
I just took the clip off at the window and put the shock through the WS on each side and put the clip back on took about 10min max.I also did not remove the OEM sealant. It only takes about 30 min if you do it that way.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Nov 7, 2008 at 10:36 PM.
My car had so much sealant it was running down the side trim pieces. White crap everywhere. Must be an Arizona Heat thing. Also doing that way when you pull out the old strip its tends to stress the plastic pieces. But hey whatever floats you boat. GC