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I am getting ready to sand my rims, any suggestions. But my main question is this, should I have to jack up the rear of the car first and when I'm finished jack up the front of the car. Or can you jack them up safely by doing the driver side wheels and then the passenger side rims or is that extremely dangerous. I only have two jack stands so I guess it would be best to do the rear first and finish those rims and then the do the front on the same side. Give me advice on the safest way to do it, and has anyone used the polishing kits from Eastwood Co. or any other products. I think wet sanding and elbow grease my be my best bet. One last question when wet sanding do I use soap or just water. Thanks I'm all .
1- stick a long, low-profile jack under the front of the car and hit the fram extension that goes under the radiator. Jack this up in the center to raise the entire front end, then put jack stands sort of inside the lower control arms. There's a solid piece of metal there that's the perfect shape to safely set on jack stands.
2-On each side in the rear, stick a jack in the "box" of frame behind the jacking point. It's just rearward of where the brake lines go inboard. You can get the jack on 2 'rails' of the frame here, and be careful not to pinch the lines. Jack up one side, and put a jack stand on the rear jacking point, as shown by the arrows on the car and in the manual. Repeat this for the other side of the rear, and you're set!
I've lifted my car A LOT, and I've weeded this out to be the fastest and safest method.
Dont forget to open or at least un latch the hood,hatch and doors to prevent cracking !
Seriously? I will need to have the hood, the doors and the rear hatch open just to jack the vehicle up? Sorry if this is a stupid question but I am getting my first vette and did not know this. I have always had trucks that I never needed to open anything before jacking.
your trucks werent fiberglass,I thought it was bull too but i took an 89 i had to a corvette shop to have new brakes put on and the mechanic opened up everthing and told me that it prevented the fiberglass from cracking or shifting and cracking the paint.So...since he did it and he had worked at the corvette plant in bowling green and now has a shop in nashille tn, I listened to him.And I've had or have a 77,78,89,92 and an 03 and have always done it,and never a crack.
Dont forget to open or at least un latch the hood,hatch and doors to prevent cracking !
Is this a fact? It seems if these were all shut it would brace the body of the car better. It's a unit then. Opening up doors and such would cause the car to flex even more IMHO.
I'm not contradicting this, I just have never heard of it before. I've been jacking my '96 up many, many times over the past year and nothing has cracked. Always with everything closed up. Perhaps it is something from the older fiberglass era.
Is this a fact? It seems if these were all shut it would brace the body of the car better. It's a unit then. Opening up doors and such would cause the car to flex even more IMHO.
I'm not contradicting this, I just have never heard of it before. I've been jacking my '96 up many, many times over the past year and nothing has cracked. Always with everything closed up. Perhaps it is something from the older fiberglass era.
I've heard of this, but nobody has provided solid evidence that anything will or will not happen.
Based on my own experience, I've always left the doors and hatch closed and the roof in place.
As for jacking, drive up on some 2 x 8's and you'll have enough clearance to place a jack underneath.
I use the location of the swaybar brackets to place the jackstands up front.
To jack the rear, I use a "Jack-a-vette" to raise the rear and place jackstands in an appropriate place.
Dont forget to open or at least un latch the hood,hatch and doors to prevent cracking !
Sorry, have to raise the flag. Post is merely perpetuating a myth. This is like stating the flexing while driving through a driveway slope on an angle will cause cracking because of flexing. Whatcha going to do, open the hood, doors, hatch and remove the top to drive it through?
However, if anyone has some actual proof of such damage being caused as a result of proper jacking procedures, I'm all interested.
I've heard of this, but nobody has provided solid evidence that anything will or will not happen.
Based on my own experience, I've always left the doors and hatch closed and the roof in place.
As for jacking, drive up on some 2 x 8's and you'll have enough clearance to place a jack underneath.
I use the location of the swaybar brackets to place the jackstands up front.
To jack the rear, I use a "Jack-a-vette" to raise the rear and place jackstands in an appropriate place.
Thanks,
I'll have to keep using the jack points I guess. Cramped for room in the front so no room for the jack. I have to drive up on 2X anythings anyway. Car is lowered so the jack doesn't fit anywhere.
Thanks,
I'll have to keep using the jack points I guess. Cramped for room in the front so no room for the jack. I have to drive up on 2X anythings anyway. Car is lowered so the jack doesn't fit anywhere.
Originally Posted by Relic
I'm no expert, but I've jacked mine with doors and hatch closed, roof on, no ill effects.
I think it's something that comes from the C3. I'm told the C3's would crack when jacked, sometimes even with the doors open.
I think the C4 will handle it fine. At least mine has.
Originally Posted by MyOtherCar
Sorry, have to raise the flag. Post is merely perpetuating a myth. This is like stating the flexing while driving through a driveway slope on an angle will cause cracking because of flexing. Whatcha going to do, open the hood, doors, hatch and remove the top to drive it through?
However, if anyone has some actual proof of such damage being caused as a result of proper jacking procedures, I'm all interested.
+1. I've jacked it up many, many times with the doors and hood ('vert) closed with no ill effects. I'm all though for pictures or testimonial if any of it holds true.
Agreed on leaving the doors/top closed/on. Actually, I've put holes in my cieling from accidentally lowering it with the hood up, and punching the corners through the drywall . I need some touchup paint...
As for jacks, Northern Tool sells a nice aluminum "Racing Jack" that is very low profile and reasonably long. I'm lowered between 1 - 1.5 inches, and the jack fits on all the factory jack points, and also fits under the front bumper to jack up the radiator support.