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Battery drain

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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:13 AM
  #21  
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Default Battery drain

Originally Posted by jfb
You have high leakage current discharging your battery. GM says leakage current (battery current drawn with everything off) should not exceed 50 milliamps. My 87 draws 27 ma. and I have no battery problems. First, don't leave your key in the ignition as this keeps the theft alarm circuit on. Next, at night, in the dark, see if your underhood lights are on, vanity mirror lights, center console lights, door map lights, spare tire lights, courtesy lights. Do you have a radar detector, GPS, CB transceiver, aftermarket radio or audio amplifier? Check em.
Next, buy a VOM test meter (voltmeter, ohmeter, milliameter). You can buy one at Harbor Freight for $7 and its a pretty decent meter too!
Pull your courtesy light fuse, then disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect the VOM set up to measure current and connect the test probes from the battery post to the battery cable so you can measure current. It should be less than 50 milliamps. My bet it is much higher, then start removing fuses one at a time and watch the ammeter. If you see a dramatic drop, then that fuse circuit will need to be investigated. Seat motor switches sometimes are the culprit, keeping a seat adjust motor on. Feel seat motors, if warm, then this could be the problem. Also, remove the nut on the bolt behind the battery with 8 red wires connected. Remove the wires one at a time while watching the ammeter. Again, a sudden drop in current indicates the problem and you will have to follow that red wire to see what circuit it is.
Lead acid batteries don't like sitting for long periods (4+ wks). They self discharge even disconnected and while dead, the battery plates become sulfated and they will not take a charge and you have a door stop! If you park your car for a long time and you don't have high leakage current, then buy a battery tender and connect it to the battery. Tenders continually measure the battery voltage and charge the battery if its state of charge falls 10% and then shut off. This keeps your battery up and it will experience a normal life. Battery tenders may not be able to supply high leakage current and some tenders will indicate that you have excess leakage current.
Putting a battery disconnect switch on your battery doesn't solve the root of your problem, it hides it, and also, you will lose your radio station presets and miles driven info. Forget the battery switch and find the problem.
I'm surprised the dealer who told you the seat switch was stuck didn't replace the switch!
Wow! Again, all great advice, thank you so much! When I took it to the dealer for the drain and they said it was the power seat switch, they said they could not find one, I would have to look elsewhere for one, the best they could do was to disconnect it or have me pull the fuse.

But, again, thanks so much, my son is my help with this, so I will pass this help from you onto him for his list of things to try. So far since having the battery charged it is holding it, but we have been driving it a bit every 3 days, I know there is still a problem though.
Paula
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Old May 26, 2009 | 10:49 PM
  #22  
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"the drain turned out to be the underhood lights. I just disconnected the wires from the harness which is located next to the headlights"

Can someone post a pic where the disconnect is?

Thanks!
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #23  
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I just wanted to thank everyone on this thread - I'm going to try all these things on my '90 this weekend!!! Very excited that I found your comments! (fingers crossed) Wish me luck! Teri
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 01:57 AM
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Zeeman

Look into the headlight well(s). There are three connectors per side that lead up to the hood.

The two pin connector is for the underhood lights.
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 02:02 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Zeeman

Look into the headlight well(s). There are three connectors per side that lead up to the hood.

The two pin connector is for the underhood lights.
Damn Coach, do you think he may have done it after three years?
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 02:31 AM
  #26  
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Oh Pullease don't get me in more trouble.......

OTOH He has been on this board for ten years.
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 07:08 AM
  #27  
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with jfb

50mA (0.05A) is the "threshold", and 25mA is more typical.

If the draw (key out, hood lights disconnected) is more than 50 mA, pull the fuses one by one while monitoring the current draw. When the current draw drops below the 50mA level, you'll have the circuit isolated. Then with a FSM you can isolate the individual components until you isolate the culprit.

In my experience, auto repair shops can be a crap shoot, especially on electrical issues. I'm just saying.

P.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #28  
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I had a more or less consistent battery drain on my 87. One day, when it was extremely quite out, no birds chirping, no background car noise. I found the drain on my car. It was the door lock system. Mine was clicking on and off, making a very faint clicking sound. Once I fixed that. mine went away.

There are a lot of things that go go wrong. Usually it isnt the charging system in a C4, it seems to be a bad switch or ground.
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Old Sep 27, 2012 | 05:58 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 87Vetteowner
I had a more or less consistent battery drain on my 87. One day, when it was extremely quite out, no birds chirping, no background car noise. I found the drain on my car. It was the door lock system. Mine was clicking on and off, making a very faint clicking sound. Once I fixed that. mine went away.

There are a lot of things that go go wrong. Usually it isnt the charging system in a C4, it seems to be a bad switch or ground.
went to check mine last night (been having issues with my battery since bying it last July)and it too has a sort of soft clicking sound in the dash area like near the radio. Maybe this is why mine wont hold a charge for more than a few days? where do you look for the door alarm switch on a 1991?
Old Sep 27, 2012 | 07:30 AM
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The thread that wouldn't die!
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