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I am in Miami with a spun bearing in my L83, so... going to build a 383 while I am here.
Question is, is there a specific block I should be looking for? I am told the L83 is not the block of choice for a 383. Is the a casting number I should be looking for?
kinda same topic. What's the difference between blocks. I thought the main difference between all the 5.7 V8's was the heads and intake. In other words, I could take the heads/intake off my L83 and put heads/intake from L98 on instead. (not that I would actually do that -- since the L83 is far superior :hat )
I am in Miami with a spun bearing in my L83, so... going to build a 383 while I am here.
Question is, is there a specific block I should be looking for? I am told the L83 is not the block of choice for a 383. Is the a casting number I should be looking for?
Why not? Your block should be fine. The 87 and later C4 block are machined to fit roller lifter while your block would need retrolifters. The 86 and later blocks have a 1 piece rear main seals (which I guess is better) but you will need to deal with that.
The L83 block is no better or worse than any other, run of the mill (pun intended) 350 block. There are some exotic "special" blocks availible, but aside from the 2 bolt 4 bolt option, the L83 IS just a regular 350 block. Just get a 3.75" stroke, 350 size main, (383) crank for the two piece (stock through '85) seal and pistons, and you've got a 383. The only other itms you will NEED are a 400 damper/balancer and flywheel or flex plate. Obviously, there are dozens of variations availible, but it can be as simple as that.
Your old buddy, Stingray
Justin1984,
I don't even think the heads are any different from the L83 to the early L98's. I think that the long blocks are the same, with the possible excption of the camshaft. I think that the easy way to create an L98 from an L83 is complete induction, fuel pump, and electronics.
I am still driving the car and was lookong to pick up another block to make the install go quicker. Since I am swapping cranks, rods & pistons anyway. I am told a 2 bolt with splayed caps is stronger than a 4 bolt. Whaddya think...?
Well, yes, but let me explain a little better. Splayed bolts are bolts that are basically tapped at an angle to provide better strength - they have more metal to attach to. The way it is done is a machine shop will take a 2-bolt main block and add two more bolts (in the same place where the 2nd pair on a stock 4-bolt would be) at an angle, giving you the splayed 4-bolt main.
The "2 bolt is stronger than the 4 bolt" statement only applies to the 400 block. Depending on how much horsepower you plan on building almost any 350 block should do. In this case a 4 bolt block WOULD be preferable. Steel 4 bolt caps and splayed outer bolts only really have practical application in VERY high output engines. It's never a BAD idea to go overboard. The only thing it can hurt, is your wallet. Again, depending on how far you want to take this, a crank and pistons are all you really need. Rebuilt 350 rods should be just fine. If I were out looking for a core engine to build up for a swap, I would be looking for a 400 core. However, there ARE some additional expenses to going that route. In THAT case, look for a 2 bolt block, but forget about the expensive caps and their expensive installation, unless you think you are really going to need them. If you are leery of a 2 bolt block, the first up grade would be stock Chevy 4 bolt caps added to a 2 bolt block. Have fun!