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won't start, do C4s have DBS?

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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 09:49 PM
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Default won't start, do C4s have DBS?

I tried to start the 86 this morning and nothing happened. No click, no clank, nothing. I think the battery is okay. Do C4s have the dead battery syndrome? The battery is about 6 months old and I drove her last about a week and a half ago. Something similar happened a couple of months ago. I took her out to Starbucks. When I returned, she would not start, same silence. Fooled with the fog switch and then coincidentally she started. Tried the same thing this morning but with no results. I am thinking it is the starter or alternator.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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What kind of battery? If it's an AC Delco, check to see if the terminals fell off the battery.
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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That happened to me once. I drove the car 300 miles one day, parked it overnight, and the next morning the battery was COMPLETELY dead. Nothing, nada. Replaced the battery, and I've never had any power problems since.

6-month old battery shouldn't be doing that though. Not sure... :/
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 10:25 PM
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Does the "security" light come on when trying to start it?
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Aurora40
Does the "security" light come on when trying to start it?
VATS
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Mojo
What kind of battery? If it's an AC Delco, check to see if the terminals fell off the battery.
Nope, not an AC Delco, but I checked the terminals and they are solid. Tried to jump start her with my 93 Trans Am but no luck.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Aurora40
Does the "security" light come on when trying to start it?
No the security light does not come on, no chimes, dashboard or any other lights on the info screen do not come on either, just dead silence. As I said in the other reply I also tried to jump start it with my 93 Trans Am but was unsuccessful. Checked my battery tender and according to it, the battery is fully charged.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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Definitely gonna need to have the batt checked at a local parts store. I lost a one year old battery when the cells shorted out. Showed as fully charged until the local parts guy threw a load on it. New batt solved the problem.

Don't cha have a voltmeter to check the voltage?
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Definitely gonna need to have the batt checked at a local parts store. I lost a one year old battery when the cells shorted out. Showed as fully charged until the local parts guy threw a load on it. New batt solved the problem.

Don't cha have a voltmeter to check the voltage?
Nope, just a battery tender. Looks like I will buy a voltmeter to check the voltage and or bring the battery to a store and have it checked out on my next day off.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:14 AM
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Sounds to me like you need to find the bad/loose/corroded connection. Either the positive cable at the solenoid or one of the major grounds. Something is not allowing current flow - assuming that the actual cables at the battery are tight, and not themselves faulty.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rons85
Sounds to me like you need to find the bad/loose/corroded connection. Either the positive cable at the solenoid or one of the major grounds. Something is not allowing current flow - assuming that the actual cables at the battery are tight, and not themselves faulty.

Thanks for all the replies so far. my next day off is on Thursday, so I will check the positive cable at the solenoid and the major grounds. This forum is the best.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 10:02 PM
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I am not familiar with the exact battery cable setup your car has. However, for many years GM has used a double cable system on many of their vehicles which has a small red that powers all your accessories and the heavier red cable powers your starter. Both of these cables have a flat spade end which is concealed in the red plastic wrapped around the terminal end which the bolt goes through. On older cars these ends tend to get corrosion built up between the two spade ends and this causes intermittent no volt problems.
To remedy this, take a razor knife and carefully slit the back side of the red covering and remove the ends from the plastic wrap and clean them with a wire brush and fine sandpaper. Slip plastic back over spades and re-attach and hopefully your problem is solved.

I have had the same type problem you have described and fixed it using my method. My problem was with my '97 Buick Lesabre but the cables looked just like the cables on my C5.

Good Luck!
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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I am not familiar with the exact battery cable setup your car has. However, for many years GM has used a double cable system on many of their vehicles which has a small red that powers all your accessories and the heavier red cable powers your starter. Both of these cables have a flat spade end which is concealed in the red plastic wrapped around the terminal end which the bolt goes through. On older cars these ends tend to get corrosion built up between the two spade ends and this causes intermittent no volt problems.
To remedy this, take a razor knife and carefully slit the back side of the red covering and remove the ends from the plastic wrap and clean them with a wire brush and fine sandpaper. Slip plastic back over spades and re-attach and hopefully your problem is solved.

I have had the same type problem you have described and fixed it using my method. My problem was with my '97 Buick Lesabre but the cables looked just like the cables on my C5.

Good Luck!
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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First remove the battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and battery posts and replace the cables (neg last). You can tell the state of charge by measuring the no load battery voltage. 12.0 volts and below, discharged, charge the battery up with a charger. 12.9 volts and above, fully charged and linear in between. If you have a charged battery, turn the headlights on and see if the battery voltage drops, it should be so small you can barely see it. Batteries with internal problems will show a significant voltage drop and should be replaced.
If the headlights will come on, then the fuseable link that supplies 12v to the ignition switch and thus to almost everything inside the car, is ok.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TheAngelOfDeath
VATS
I had an 87 that did the same thing all the time if I waited a couple of days it started, turned out to be VATS.

sux, it happened on a date once.

Last edited by ch@0s; Apr 14, 2009 at 10:55 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 06:46 AM
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My Guess....VATS...
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