On my '90 I've changed this before about a couple years ago, but forgot which one it was. To the left of the dash under the column, there seems to be two black box plugs that look like starter enable relays? I know one is. Are there two? I seem to remember it being just one. If so, which is it? Is it the one furthest to the left or closer to the column(right)? And what's the other one?

Just fyi, if someone has any other idea what this could be....the prob Im having is the vette does start, but almost drags to start after it keeps cranking to turn the engine. It starts when I almost hold the gas pedal down to the floor, but I dont think its the IAC as 1.) I changed it less than a year ago and 2.) even without the IAC motor repaired it never took that long to start up when I had my foot down on the pedal(just wouldnt start by turn-key alone). The engine after it turns and foot is held down almost struggles to start and if let down on the pedal immediately afterwards will stall, but held down for a few seconds after it does start it stays at normal idle when released like nothing ever happened and runs well/normal.(IAC gone bad would usually stall the car if the gas wasnt held down atleast some almost all the time). The relay seems to be the simplest place to start and solved my prob the last time when I think I had this same prob after I got a new starter installed about a year and a half ago. Considered may be solenoid if not starter itself....Any other ideas are appreciated. TiA.

 

I had a starter go bad that included symptoms as you have described.

Cept I only got a few starts like this and then the starter froze up.

Brushes were ground down to the holders.........

 

How long does a starter typically last before something like this? I remember someone posting starter enable relay install directions in a 1990 that told where the relay was and/or why theres two boxes that look like relays to the left of the column under the dash. Id rather replace a 6 dollar part than a 200 before I just replace the starter. Unless anyone else has any ideas.

 

Mine was original. 1986. 140K plus.

 

The Starter Enable relay is the 2nd relay closest to the drivers door. The relay closest to the drivers door is the AC Clutch relay. You can swap them around because they are the same.

As for your cranking problem you may have a leaking injector. After the engine is shut down, gas may be leaking into one of the cylinders almost causing a hydro lock condition. Install a fuel pressure gage and see how fast you lose pressure after you shut the engine off. The pressure should slowly drop after 15 minutes or more. Or pull each plug and you may smell gasoline from the cylinder with the bad injector if there is one.

If you have the original Multec gray body colored injectors, ohm the injector coils when they are cold and hot. Should be around 16 ohms.

 

Thanks for the pic. I replaced the relay, still the same prob. My starter was replaced like a year and a half ago which is why I asked how long they typically go before they crap out. The fuel injector leak deal is interesting, I did notice a pretty strong gasoline smell right when the engine starts and stops lately aswell as a short whistle-like whine or something for a couple seconds after it does start that then goes away and whats odd is it does take a while to start up at first but then sometimes Id drive around, shut it off and start it and sometimes it starts right up. This is the first time I've heard of this hydro lock deal. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge so Im probably gonna have to take it down to have them check for leaks in the injectors. Any recommendations or ideas on how much this would run at a mechanic costwise...atleast the check?

 

The only thing a defective start enable relay can cause is the starter motor not cranking. You have a serious fuel problem and likely injectors that are leaking. You should never have to touch the accelerator to start your engine and if you do, you need to look for the cause. Fuel pressure gauges aren't expensive (about $12) and you can find out if you have the correct fuel pressure and if it holds for a long time after the ignition is turned off. One symptom of leaky injectors is a rapid drop in fuel pressure when the ignition is off.

 

if your having to press the gas pedal on cold starts change the CTS

 

Shopping for injectors I noticed the part numbers have to be identical for the injector being replaced in the chilton's manual, but I dont see numbers for ordering corresponding injectors from auto websites. IE: Injector 1, 2, 3 4 just a general part number. Are they talking about every injector being changed to have the same specific part number in the vehicle or each individual injector being changed with the same part number as the old in which case Id have to first check the part numbers of each old one and order by that dependant on which is causing the problem? Id assume it was a part number by each individual injector thinking they're calibrated individually for flow rate in a sequence...but I never changed em before so I wouldn't know...

 

cts?

 

The fact that it will only start with your foot on the accel shows you have a very rich cond as the computer cuts of the injector flow if you have more than 25% throttle while cranking.

Effectively ;you are starting on only the fuel flooded in the engine , not from new fuel sprayed in.

 

You could also have a bad diaphram in your fuel pressure regulator and that is allowing raw gas to bleed off into the intake manuifold. A quick check for this would be to run the engine for a minute. shut the engine off and immediatly pull the vacuum hose off of the regulator. If there is raw gas presant, the diaphram is bad.

Jim

 

My 86' Vette is doing the exact same thing. I'm on my way to pick up a new starter then to tackle the the hard cold start problem. Oh and one more thing...can't keep a good charge on the battery. Hopefully it's related to the starter problem...hopefully.

 

Got a fuel pressure gauge and has a relief valve but it says I need to relieve fuel pressure before even connecting it to the test port. How?

 

Wait until the pressure drops, or push on the shrader valve and let the gasoline spray out of it which relieves the pressure. Put a rag over the shrader so you don't spray gas on the engine or paint.

 

Never replace the starter before you replace the battery. Batteries only are "good" for 3-5 years and then start to go downhill. Check the alternator with a Voltage meter and also the battery. If everything measures correct then check battery output when cranking to see the true power and "life" of the battery. Replace the cheap part before the expensive one if at all possible.

 

What should the typical fuel pressure be reading on the gauge btw? Also, to check whether the diaphram is leaking from the regulator is the vacuum hose connected to it under any pressure?

 

36psi at idle for the gauge
Also the car should be turned off after running for a min just like Martely said, so no pressure.

 

Already have a "newish" battery and I just replaced the alternator last month. This thing has a few little gremlins I'm trying to get rid of. It sat for a few years so I'm glad it only has less than 60k on it, but i think there has just been too many "back yard mechanics" under the hood.

 

by pulling fuel pump fuse, removing fuel cap, then start motor and it will loose all pressure and fuel in the rails.