I was having trouble with it yesterday, the button on the drivers door wouldnt work the window but the pass door would. Today it doesnt work, any ideas of what to check first bfore I tear the doors apart?

 

Sounds like the double switch on the drivers door is bad (real common, real $$). Just pull the two screws, and the assembly slides out without having to remove the door panel.

 

Cool but is there anyway i will know for sure that is the problem...thank you

 

if both windows work with any switch that eliminates the motor. not much else but the switch.

 

The passenger window on my 93 coupe sometimes won't operate from the closed position - door closed with either switch. It then works as soon as the door is opened. Seems that the Non-OEM (Wilcox) upper WS applies enough force on the window to stall window motor.

Good thing the GM WS I ordered showed up last week. Now waiting for a nice warm day to install it.

The lower cost WS kits out there (non GM) have a much better price but have their share of other problems as well......

 

So I guess its the switch...geeez another 208.00! Ecklers suck!

I wonder if I could rebuild it, has anyone ever torn one apart to find the problem?

 

SOMETIMES THE LACK OF USE CAN CAUSE THE MOTOR ARMATURE TO BECOME SLIGHTLY TARNISHED,TRY SLAMING THE PASS DOOR WHILE OPERATING THE PASS WINDOW SWITCH TO GET THE MOTOR STARTED THEN WHEN IT STARTS WORKING RUN IT UP & DOWN MANY TIMES,IT WORKED FOR ME!!! HOPE THIS HELPS

 

ebay

 

I live in Florida so it gets use daily so Im sure thats not an issue. Just dont want to buy the wrong switch if I on't need it,I already have too many c4 parts laying around that I never needed. And a few C5 parts as well.

 

Don't be to quick to buy a switch or two. Grab a yardstick and slide it down between the window sills to where the window motor plug is and use the yardstick to check that the plag is on tight. Wiggle it around if you can. That might just do the trick. Copper

 

Thanks copper i'll go try that in a few mins

 

Don't waste your cash at Ecklers....


Try my buddy Mike the parts guy at

Valley Auto
13 West Main Street
Fort Kent, Maine 04743
(207) 834-3191


Their prices on OEM GM parts will beat the others bigtime.....and his service is excellent !

 

I found one on ebay for 79.00 but I hate to go and buy it and that not be th problem

 

I decided to look for bare wires and anything may be causing this because i am not oaying 208 for a plastic switch.

So anyway I pulled on the wires that come out of door in car itself while holding the switch in the down position and it went down so I traced it to the plug...cleaned it with some electronics cleaner and put it back together and taped it up wit some elec tape and it works fine now...Thanks for the help.

Glad I didn't buy a new switch !

 

I had the same problem, passenger side worked fine but the drivers door window not. Here's the quickest way to find out if it's the motor or not. My problem was corroded connector tabs on the motor relay assembly.
1) remove the interior door panel with all the electrical switches and etc.
2) remove the plastic water shield barrier.
3) remove the three 1/4" headed screws that hold the inner door assembly plate tight against the inner door panel. The three screws you want to remove are the bottom three. After you remove these three screws you'll be able to gently push in the bright silver colored assembly panel and see the 2-wire harness connector that attaches to the relay motor assembly.
4) remove the 2-wire connector from the motor relay assembly.
5) using a volt meter test the voltage from one side of the connector to the other side while you push the window button up and then down. Gotta temporarily re-attach the window switch assembly to the harness to do this. If the window switch is working okay you'll read 12 +/- volts between the 2 wires on this connector. The voltage polarity changes from positive to negative depending on if the switch is in the up or down position. NOW if you have good voltage at this 2-wire connector, which I did, this is the next step.
6) Very carefully run a 12 gage wire from the negative termial post of your battery to one of the electrical tabs on the motor relay. Then run another wire from the positive post of your battery to the other metal tab on the motor relay. If the motor and relay are okay the motor will run. Depending on the polarity the window will either go up or down if the motor and relay are good.
Mine worked fine and the problem was corrosion between the metal motor relay male tabs and the 2-wire connector that attaches there. I used some electra-clean spray and a tiny stiff wire brush to clean the tabs. I then sprayed the female connectors ends and ran a very fine small file in and out of them. I re-attached the 2-wire connector and tried the window switch -- all worked great!! PHEW!!!!
Hope this all helps.. I've also read that sometimes the rocker switch itself gets corroded too, so if you don't have the 12 volts at the 2-wire connector try using electra-spray on the left switch assembly. It comes apart fairly easy.
NOTE: remember you have to have the key on to be checking the voltages in the wire harness...

Good luck!! Marv

 

Thanks Mav but if you would have read my last post you would see I did find the problem and fixed it. It was a loose connection in the pass door. But thanks for the advise i am printing it out for the next time I have a prob with it but hope that I dont...

 

hahahahaha we must have psoted almost at the same time.... Anyway glad to read you did find the problem... I sure didn't want to tackle removing the motor relay assembly and all that it took to replace it... Take care...

 

Our 94 has the same problem. Door slamming also worked on our Alero, but eventually the motor got to tired and had to be replaced. Havent been brave enought to try it on the Vette. If you get it to move lube the window edges with silicon spray in the channels. The motor will need to be replace eventually though.