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I have an 86 coupe and the passenger window leaks pretty good at the top, rear end of it. It barely touches the weatherstripping. It needs to come back toward the rear of the car and in towards the seat. I have the door panel off and I can see the anti rattle cushions on top and the 2 holes in the aluminum center panel where it looks like you can loosen bolts to make adjustments. Just looking for some tips to try and save time, aggravation , and possible damage. Thanks
Either way it is an exercise of frustration. I used masking tape both on the top edge of the door and bottom edge of the window (window all the way up). I then made some hash marks about 1" apart along the length of the door on the tape. Snap a picture and then loosen the bolts (I believe 3 bolts) and start working to move it slowly. The tape and marks you made should be guides on your progress and direction.
I would recommend you make sure your weatherstipping is OEM (after-market just does not seal well with these cars) and that your door is aligned properly before messing with the window.
Good luck..I still have a leak...have to pony up the $ for OEM on the A-Pillar W/S.
My passanger window won't roll all the way up if I try with the door closed. Leaves a little tiny crack where I get wind when driving and a small leak.
If I have the door open, then roll it up, it seals perfect. Wonder if I just need to align it also.
My passanger window won't roll all the way up if I try with the door closed. Leaves a little tiny crack where I get wind when driving and a small leak.
If I have the door open, then roll it up, it seals perfect.
You have the telltale signs of a broken window guide. Ask me how I know....
Yeah, I have the same problem in my 96, but the damn RH window guides is out of stock at several places....ugh...door all apart but can't seem to get the part!
Had the same problem on my 87 after I installed the new B pillar weatherstrip. The rear top edge of the pass side window just barely touched the w/s. I didn't want to screw with readjusting the window, so I took a piece of the old w/s and shimmed between the w/s channel and the new w/s. This ballooned the w/s out far enough so that the w/s makes good contact with the window to prevent a leak but still allows the window to move up all the way. The shim was the old black rubber, can't tell it's there without really looking for it.