Three years ago I had the VATS No Start Issue with my 90. I called Gordon Killebrew and he told me how to bypass the Starter Enable Relay. I did that and no problem for 2 years. Now it has started doing it again. After sweating by a$$ off for 2 hours Friday evening waiting for my car to decide that I wasn't trying to steal it, I am ready to purchase a VATS Bypass Kit. I have had it with this VATS (Variable Automobile Tantrum Starter). I have read all of the "don't do it because you are opening yourself up for theft", well, that is a chance I will take. I live in a small, rural community and I don't think that C4's are very high on the "most often stolen" list. What is the best VATS Bypass kit and how difficult is the installation?

 

I don't know if there is a kit but you can get everything you need at Radio Shack for less than $5. You will need a digital ohmmeter. Use the ohmmeter to read the resistance of the pellet in the key, put a meter probe on each side of the key on the tiny metal strip that is in the black pellet. Read the resistance then go to Radio Shack and get whatever resistors you need to equal the reading from the key. You may need three or four different resistors to equal the resistance of the key. When you get the resistors line them up end to end and solder the wires together, you can clip the wires shorter to make as neat of an install as you can. Once you have the resistors needed all soldered together look up under the dash below the column, find what looks like an orange wire but is really a covering with two little white wires inside. there should be a little plastic connector you can disconnect. Separate the connector then on the end that goes up into your column cut both white wires about 2-3 inches from the connector. Solder a white wire to each end of the resistors, tape it all up, plug it in and no more Vats.

 

I posted this on the other thread as well

There's a chip replacement at PCM For Less that will disable the vats and you can also have them re-program your fan temps etc. I'm really thinking of doing my "90 with this. It's will run you about $150.00 I'm told though.

Jim

 

See the attached PDF from the old Tech Tips section.

 

I don't know how to fix it with a bypass but my 91 use to leave me stuck 1 time a week for about an hr at a time. in the summer it becomes a hot casket. I fixed mine with a preformance chip. I contacted the guy at tbichips.com and told him what the car was doing he burnt me a chip with preformance add on's for $120 well worth it, no noticble HP gains but better throttle responce and never had any more issues with the vats

 

I did this sevral years back but used a trim pot instead of a traditional resistor. This allows you to dial in to a specific resistance.

p/n 271-343 for $2.69

 

Does my 96 have the same issue? I noticed on my key the small pellet. Is the procedure the same to disable it?

 

I had the by-pass installed and after while had the same problem cause GM had proper fix was to replace the ignition cylinder. I had it done 9 years ago and never had problem and removed the by-pass when the new cylinder was installed.
If you purchase it, make sure you buy the proper one that matches your key number. They are coded......

 

I don't know what year it started, but later C4's you cannot just connect a fixed resistor in place of the key pellet because the computer must see the key removed and reinserted to start the car. For probably about the same price that a VATS bypass kit costs, you can do the correct repair and have a new ign lock installed which will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet. I would first determine if the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw at base of shift lever if auto) is the cause of a no start. Unplug the clutch safety sw and jump the socket. There should be 12v on the jumper when the ign sw is in crank position if the VATS decoder detects the correct pellet resistance. If no 12v, remove the kick panel over the drivers feet and locate the two wires from above the steering column going to a 2 pin socket and unplug. Insert the key and measure the resistance across the two wires from the steering column. It must measure within 4% of the pellet resistance or the VATS module will not close the start enable relay (another cause of a no crank). You can connect a fixed resistor the same value as the pellet (or a variable resistor set to your pellet resistance) across the two wires coming out of the wiring harness (goes to the VATS module).
For the life of me I cannot understand why owners get angry because VATS won't let them start their car when they don't bother to determine why this happens and fix it, they just keep repeating getting stuck not being able to start their engine. Instead of fixing it, they want to bypass it. Keep your car in good repair. If your left headlight burns out would you epoxy a flashlight onto your hood?

 

found this when I was having problems with mine, worth a look.

http://www.vatssucks.com/

 

You will note the link above
www.vatssucks.com
90'+ you can only bypass the starter enble relay.
To bypass VATS completely requires the aftermarket chip mod .

 

I DID replace the ignition cylinder and I DID replace the Starter & Fuel Relays and I did check the neutral safety switch. It is plain & simple - VATS SUCKS! And for some reason mine has a Gremlin in it and I am tired of chasing the problem. And if you can't understand it, I hope that it happens to you and then maybe the light of understanding will shine unto you.

I DO KEEP MY CAR IN EXCELLENT REPAIR THANK YOU!

 

just shows how ignorant some people are tex. dont mind him. Its your car bypass it if you want. Im gonna program it out of mine. I have a hidden fuel cutoff switch installed so **** vats.

 

The kit was about $15. It came with complete instructions. Took about 10 minutes and have not had an ounce of trouble since it's installation.

 

You are right Tex. Vats does indeed suck. Do the sensible thing and by pass it. Those that don't agree can keep their opinions to themselves.

 

So what makes you think your opinion is better than anyone elses? Next you will be bypassing ABS because it stops working properly too. Then you'll bypass the ECM and install a carburetor because the MAF failed. And last, you will epoxy a flashlight onto the hood when one of your headlights burn out.
With no VATS, your vette is an easy steal. 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition. VATS prevents this.

 

You are comparing Apples to Oranges!!!!!!! For 3 years I have tried every Fix known to Man to remedy this VATS Issue! New Ignition Cylinder, New Keys, New Relays, Check & Double Check Neutral Safety Switch...... As well as a call to Gordon Killebrew at $$$/Minute for help in the repair. Along with several tow-truck bills until the problem was indentified. I am sick & tired of being stranded!!!!! I think that your analogy of the Headlight/Flashlight Epoxy fix as well as your Inference that I don't keep my car in the utmost state of repair and mainenance is Rediculous as well as Arrogant. If the ABS slams on brakes for no reason while I am driving down the road - I will Bypass it! If the Airbags deploy for no reason while driving down the road, I will by pass it too! I am more concerned with my car not starting while I am on a trip than I am with it being stolen.

And my question was about how other members had bypassed VATS, not why I shouldn't.

 

Well, I've always skipped over these threads because it did't concern me until today. I know I should do a search, but since this thread is already here. What actually goes wrong? Would getting a new key help, or is there more to it. I clean my key, after I waited 1 hour and it started. Of course this was after I convinced my wife she could drive the trailer, and she was 25 mi into a 50 mile drive. Boy was she not happy. Was this just dumb luck, or is it my key causing the problem. I've owned it for a year now, and no problems. ARGH Guess I shouldn't have talked about trading it last night. OOPS

 

My Opinion is that the 1 Hour Wait was more beneficial than cleaning the key. You may have a weak relay (there are 2 of them - Starter Enable Relay & Fuel Enable Relay). I am leaning towards having VATS deprogrammed out of my car entirely. I did it all - new keys, new relays, new key cylinder, even grounded the Starter Enable Relay (which worked for about 2 years) and I am still here with the problem. I think that you would be best to erradicate VATS and install a hidden kill swith. Just my Educated Opinion.

C41987, I am assuming by your screen name that you car is a 1987. Is that correct?

 

I have a 1987. I wanted the fan to come on sooner than 238* so I bought a PCMforless chip. $150. As an added bonus, you can specify to them when you get the chip that you want VATS disabled.

My 87 runs very cool, and I have no concern about VATS. And if someone steals my car, the insurance will give me more than I could get by selling it outright.