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Oil Leak

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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Default Oil Leak

So I was changing the oil on my 1986 Vette for the first time and I tried to fix a very small oil leak that it had by tightening some bolts on the undercarrage around where the leak seemed to be coming from. Now the leak has gotten worse. In about 3-4 hours it leaked oil about the size of my palm. I'm not sure the name of the part that the leak originated from but it is located about 6-8 Inches from the oil drain plug towards the rear of the car. Any ideas on what it is and how I made it worse? I'm pretty new to working on cars (GM especially) so I probably screwed somthing up
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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The only I could think is a cork gasket. You over-tight it.

You have to do "surgery" my friend. You need a new oil pan gasket and all the other extras that come with it. I could be wrong .
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by PLRX
The only I could think is a cork gasket. You over-tight it.

You have to do "surgery" my friend. You need a new oil pan gasket and all the other extras that come with it. I could be wrong .
I agree with PLRX. The gasket probably was deteriated and has to be replaced. Tightening only split it open more.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by lgolson
about 6-8 Inches from the oil drain plug towards the rear of the car.
I'm wondering if he's talking 6 to 8 inches horizontally (towards the rear of the car). Maybe he tightened up a transmission pan bolt and split that gasket?????

Hey Iglo, what size socket were you using on this bolt? This might give a us clue what you were tightening.

Last edited by 65747785; Oct 28, 2009 at 05:28 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 65747785
I'm wondering if he's talking 6 to 8 inches horizontally (towards the rear of the car). Maybe he tightened up a transmission pan bolt and split that gasket?????

Hey Iglo, what size socket were you using on this bolt? This might give a us clue what you were tightening.

After further review I definitely tightened the Transmission pan. I'm 99% positive that oil is leaking and not tranny fluid. There is an aluminum plate between the oil pan and the transmission pan and that is where the oil accumulates. I checked the valve cover gaskets and one side is leaking but it doesn't appear to be nearly enough to be the leak I'm looking for. I called a local vette mechanic today and he is going to put it on a lift monday and try to figure out whats leaking. He said that he'd look at it for free so I figure thats a good deal

Also I asked what he would charge to change the rear seal if that was the problem and he said about $300. Does that sound about right price wise? I really don't think I could handle that myself and it seems pretty reasonable considering the amount of work involved.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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Yep, sounds like the rear seal. Chevy engines are notorious for that. It's not a hard job, but time consuming. He can do this job with the engine in the car, he probably told you that.

I guess $300 is good, I don't know because I do these things myself. Maybe call some other shops just to get a price. This will let ya know if his $300 is a good deal. Don't call the Chevorlet dealer as they're very high priced on repairs.

It all depends on how bad the leak is. If it's not that big, leave it alone for a while. But don't park on someone's nice new driveway.
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Old Oct 29, 2009 | 11:44 AM
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Oh, I wanted to say, you can change your trans pan gasket and filter inside, it's a pretty easy job. Just have a big catch bucket underneath the pan when loosening the bolts, then seperating the pan from the transmission. Once you get past the dirty work (trans fluid dripping) then it's clear sailing the rest of the way. Make sure the mating surface (gasket area) of the trans case is free of fluid.

A couple tips. Once you clean the pan, eyeball for flatness around the pan where the bolt holes are. If you see some that are raised, smack em with a hammer on a flat surface (work bench or...) to make em level. You might want to paint the outside of the pan too.

Use Permatex #2 on both sides of the new gasket and a dab on all the bolts. It'll never leak again.

Last edited by 65747785; Oct 29, 2009 at 11:47 AM.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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Lou dog, $300. is not bad to replace rear main, if I did it, I'd charge you $500. (just kidding)

Now this is just the beginng, your first of several projects you will endure over the years because it becomes additive to perfect this one and in time you will be making more money and be able to have more exspensive ones. Most are money pits but it's fun and rewarding in the long run.

Need any help, give a call.

love ya,
grandpa
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 06:40 PM
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300 for the rear main,Pay it,it's a lot of work
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 65747785
Oh, I wanted to say, you can change your trans pan gasket and filter inside, it's a pretty easy job. Just have a big catch bucket underneath the pan when loosening the bolts, then seperating the pan from the transmission. Once you get past the dirty work (trans fluid dripping) then it's clear sailing the rest of the way. Make sure the mating surface (gasket area) of the trans case is free of fluid.

A couple tips. Once you clean the pan, eyeball for flatness around the pan where the bolt holes are. If you see some that are raised, smack em with a hammer on a flat surface (work bench or...) to make em level. You might want to paint the outside of the pan too.

Use Permatex #2 on both sides of the new gasket and a dab on all the bolts. It'll never leak again.
Go the Chevy dealer and get the gasket for the trans. About $9.00..DO NOT use any sealer on the pan or gasket... There is a small passage that you do not want any goop in
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Old Nov 3, 2009 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nutz4c4
Go the Chevy dealer and get the gasket for the trans. About $9.00..DO NOT use any sealer on the pan or gasket... There is a small passage that you do not want any goop in
Yup. Goop is bad. Block the servo dump hole, and it will turn into another "I changed my fluid and my trans blew up magically" thread.
Bolts go into blind holes, so goop on them will prevent the bolts from sealing, as you cannot get an accurate torque reading.
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