Dragstrip Newb
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 72
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From: Chesterfield VA
Dragstrip Newb
I will be taking my 86 coupe to a drag event next Friday (Nov 13) in Virginia.
The last time I was on a drag strip was 20 yrs ago, and that was an 1/8 mile with no tree and no timer. Just basically a bunch of guys lining up, and seeing who got to the end first.
So I have a helmet and a car, and still have to get shoe polish(?) to mark the window somehow. That is about all I know.
The Vette has the L98 that has the cam and heads upgraded. I have no clue as to what upgrades. We are planning on pulling the TPI and intake off this weekend to open it up some. With the way it is now it supposedly dynoed at 400rwhp, but feels like it runs out at about 5k rpm.
So what should I do to prep the car to run, while driving it to the event. And what should I be prepared for (think way back to the first time you went).
Thanks,
Jim
The last time I was on a drag strip was 20 yrs ago, and that was an 1/8 mile with no tree and no timer. Just basically a bunch of guys lining up, and seeing who got to the end first.
So I have a helmet and a car, and still have to get shoe polish(?) to mark the window somehow. That is about all I know.
The Vette has the L98 that has the cam and heads upgraded. I have no clue as to what upgrades. We are planning on pulling the TPI and intake off this weekend to open it up some. With the way it is now it supposedly dynoed at 400rwhp, but feels like it runs out at about 5k rpm.
So what should I do to prep the car to run, while driving it to the event. And what should I be prepared for (think way back to the first time you went).
Thanks,
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Delta B.C. Canada
2023 C7 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Make sure you drain any antifreeze out of the system. Run with water only. If you blow a hose, and wet down the track with antifreeze, its a real problem to clean the track surface.
If you are running street tires, you'll want to experiment with air pressure for the rears. It seems counter-intuitive, but increasing the pressure may give you a better contact patch. Find a place where you won't get folks PO'd, and do some short burnouts so you can check. Darker edges on the patch mean that you should boost the PSI, and darker center means lower the PSI.
Most importantly....have fun!!
If you are running street tires, you'll want to experiment with air pressure for the rears. It seems counter-intuitive, but increasing the pressure may give you a better contact patch. Find a place where you won't get folks PO'd, and do some short burnouts so you can check. Darker edges on the patch mean that you should boost the PSI, and darker center means lower the PSI.
Most importantly....have fun!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Woodstock Georgia
Prep should include weight reduction. Leave things like the spare tire, jack, etc at home. Go with about 1/2 tank of gas. Take a tire pressure gauge with you as you will likely want to adjust your rear tire pressures. Otherwise check the car over very closely for any issues. Make some practice launches to see what works best.
What kind of 'tree' is at your track?
What kind of 'tree' is at your track?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Consider moving timing to 8-10 degrees and move TPS to .60 instead of .54. Cut out top on air cleaner box if it has not been done yet.
Agree with weight reduction. Automatic or stick? If an automatic, leave it in D, not the over drive D...one down.
Hit it when the last yellow light comes on.....don't wait for the green. Your reaction time by trying to leave on the last yellow will match up with the green light turning on.
BEST OF ALL....HAVE FUN and enjoy the car.
Agree with weight reduction. Automatic or stick? If an automatic, leave it in D, not the over drive D...one down.
Hit it when the last yellow light comes on.....don't wait for the green. Your reaction time by trying to leave on the last yellow will match up with the green light turning on.
BEST OF ALL....HAVE FUN and enjoy the car.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 72
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From: Chesterfield VA
Make sure you drain any antifreeze out of the system. Run with water only.
Car is an auto, but I usually shift it manually. It tries to shift a little over 4500 rpms if left in D. Who ever built the engine did a great job, but I can feel it hit a wall at 5k. Going to try opening up the plenum today and see what that does.
Thanks for all the input!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,616
Likes: 111
Ok,,,,that is rough this time of year, it got below freezing last night.
Car is an auto, but I usually shift it manually. It tries to shift a little over 4500 rpms if left in D. Who ever built the engine did a great job, but I can feel it hit a wall at 5k. Going to try opening up the plenum today and see what that does.
Thanks for all the input!!!
Car is an auto, but I usually shift it manually. It tries to shift a little over 4500 rpms if left in D. Who ever built the engine did a great job, but I can feel it hit a wall at 5k. Going to try opening up the plenum today and see what that does.
Thanks for all the input!!!
the above poster is correct; leave on that last yellow! You'll have fun no matter what and you will learn alot about the performance of the car...the 1/4 IMHO is the best test of straight line performance unless you are just into top end speed...
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Chesterfield VA
Nope, all original TPI. The heads were ported as much as possible. No idea what the cam is, but it is quite a bit over stock. When we pulled the plenum today and looked at the gaskets for the runners, it didn't look like any room to open them up, so I left the runners. (iron head early 86)
We also couldn't find any bits today, so my helper is taking it to work to do the porting (he is a machinist).
I am now wondering if my tach isn't off, it pulls hard past 4500 rpm, and hits the wall at 5k. Almost like it revs quickly to 5k and then just stops revving.
Did a few burnouts in the drive way and measured the contact patch. It was much heavier on the inside of the tire and progressively lighter out towards the outside.
We also couldn't find any bits today, so my helper is taking it to work to do the porting (he is a machinist).
I am now wondering if my tach isn't off, it pulls hard past 4500 rpm, and hits the wall at 5k. Almost like it revs quickly to 5k and then just stops revving.
Did a few burnouts in the drive way and measured the contact patch. It was much heavier on the inside of the tire and progressively lighter out towards the outside.
