I love my 1987 Corvette, but since I got it it has been unreliable. I would charge it, and drive around. Then, when I came back to the car it would not start. It was absolutely dead. This previous weekend I went out, and started it. The dashboard lights were blinking, and the died. I tried to jump it, and the engine would start and the blinking lights from the dashboard would appear, and the car would die. Now it is in my garage, and I have no clue what is wrong with it. Any input would be greatly apprieciated

 

What part of the country/world do you live in? Maybe someone nearby would be able to come over and look at it.
Good idea to fill out you profile here to include the city you live in.

 

alternator.

 

Not holding a charge. Buy a new alternator and clean battery connectors. Start there.

 

Try using a volt meter, just hook it up to the leads of the battery if the numbers start to fluctuate then the alternator should be charging. Also you can look at your dash volts, it should fluctuate up and down as you rev the engine or turn on lights, radio ect....

Mine battery will drain after sitting for a while, I just charge the battery and off she goes. I have learned to live with it; however it’s not a DD

 

Actually, no. A fully charged battery without the engine running should measure about 12.6 volts. During starting the battery voltage will normally dip down to around 9 to 10 volts. Once the engine is operating, the voltage, measured at the battery should be fairly constant and between 13 and 15 volts. Unless you have a lot of accessories on, e.g. A/C and headlights, the voltage should be pretty constant independent of engine speed. If you turn on you accessories the voltage may drop slightly at idle but will return to the typical system voltage at elevated rpms, say 1000 to 1200. The dash voltmeter will give you the same information but it tends to read about 0.3 volts low.

If the system is not measuring above 12 volts with the engine running the alternator is not charging. Before you replace the alternator, check your belt tensioner (a loose belt will slip reducing the alternator's speed) and the condition of the connections and wiring at the alternator and at the battery. Fortunately, the alternator is a pretty easy R&R. Do not forget to disconnect the battery cable before you remove the alternator.

You should also check that you do not have any loads or shorts that are draining the battery while the car is parked. The easy way (no test instruments) is to disconnect the battery while the car is parked. If the battery is not drained when you reconnect it (make sure the key is not on) then you have a load or short while the vehicle is parked.

Steve

 

Could be a bad cell also in the battery. Lately I'm lucky if I get 3-5 yrs. out of battery. Not the same quality we had before. Alternator sounds like a definite probability also.

 

Recharge the battery fully before putting in the new alternator. Alternators are for maintaining the charge in your battery, not for recharging a dead one. Thats a sure fire way to kill a good alternator.

 

Take the battery and alternator off and have them checked not that hard to do then you will know which one is bad.

 

if they keep blinking n u hear 'DANGER!! DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!'.. i would just run

~ Sheri

 

I had the same problem with mine, leave it for a week and just a click from the starter motor.

I changed the battery and have had no problems since.

Anyway, better to start with battery as is a cheap and easy fix.

Just my opinion.

 

Yeah, probably just a bad battery.

 

jump starting is the best way to kill your digital dash...also high body count on ecm/alternator/etc...charging the battery while both cables are connected from car is also BAD...these are NOT your father's chevy, electronically speaking.

today's battery has a 3 year life expectancy, beyond that you're rolling loaded dice...get a new battery...'peak up' the new battery on a charger for a couple hours, then let it sit for 1/2 hour to 'coast down' from 15 v charger level to normal, before install ('today's alternators' have charge rates that can warp the internal plates of a new battery on the first date)

start the car with the new battery and watch voltage display, should be over 13 volts if alternator is 'putting out'...other sith to check if prob hangs, later.

 

1. disconnect the battery lead from the alternator, and
2. start the car after charging the battery.
3. If the blinking and symptoms continue, it isn't the alternator.
4. If the blinking symptoms stop, and the battery doesn't go dead, you need an alternator.

Normally, the alternator is rectified to pulsating DC power in the rectifier board and if more than one diode has an "open" and one is shorted, you will get wierd symptoms, and a rapidly depleting battery.
In this condition, starting the car will result in a battery discharging faster .

Usually, running the car with a bad battery shortens the alternator service life because the alternator runs near maximum output with the air on, or the rear window heat on.
Adding a discharged battery to the mix usually ends up in popping the diodes in the alternator or melting the solder on the diode bridge where it is soldered to the stator.

 

Check the car at night and make sure there are not any lights on. Mirror lights, hood lights, console, etc.

 

Running a car with the alternator disconnected is not a good practice. The alternator and battery are designed to operate as a pair. There are better ways to isolate the battery or alternator as the problem source.

Steve

 

running with no ALTERNATOR may reduce high rpm hp due to random misfires, no hurt at low engine speed/idle...running with no battery may due big $ damage to alt/ecm/radio/etc

 

well what was it?