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Well as some of you know Ive done ALOT of work to my car. Its a 92 with 63000 miles. I have had a new water pump and optispark installed. New MAP censor. Complete ignition and all wiring repaired. oil leaks fixed, cooling system flush and cleaning, tranny service, new ac compressor and conversion to new system, new battery and cables, complete tune up with new distributor cap and wires, new fuel injectors,new fuel pump and filter and gas tank removed and cleaned and fuel lines cleaned. Car runs great, alot better than when I first got it but theres 1 thing. When its cold outside it cranks but doesnt want to stay running. I can try it again and it turns over and thats it. I have to put my foot on the gas to keep it running and until it gets warmed up it doesnt want to run. Anyone have any ideas about what could possibly cause this or is it just as the shop says the car is "cold natured"?I know there are tons of censors but I just dont know what else to do other than over look it? It runs great afterward. It was after warming up even at red lights or when stopping it would cut off or not keep idle. the map censor was bad so replaced that. Any ideas? Thanks
The Idle Air Control motor or a connector thereto could be at fault. After it warms up, what is the rpm at ilde? A quick read in the FSM should give you some clues as well. Doesn't sound like anything too drastic. Do you have a scanner? (A scanner is money well spent...Mine paid for itself many times over in the course of my Vettedom!)
BTW, these cars are NOT "cold blooded" if everything is working correctly. A mechanic that would tell me that would immediately fall into my "hack pack" list and be relegated simple oil changes after that...Cold blooded...That is a term thrown back from the days of carburetors with miss-adjusted chokes.
Anywayz, sounds like you're ready to party - soon az ya git dat idle thing wrestled to the ground! But, I would put a bug in Santa's ear about a scanner. Mine is by AutoXray, but there are other (more sophisticated...and $$$) ones too. Well worth the cost!!
Thanks for the info. I dont have a scanner. Where is the idle air control motor? When I start it there is this noise like a whirring. I asked the dealer about it and they said its something to do with the vacuum system for the engine. When you open the hood there is a round thing in the left front of the car. Is that it? If so is it easy to replace?
Thanks
I forgot the Rpms. When the car is warm and Im stopped the Rpms stay in between the first notch on the rpm guage and the number 1. It stays roght on the smaller notch.
It was doing this before I had the map sensor replaced. It didnt matter if it was warm or cold weather or if the car was warm or cold. At times I could start it and no problem and other times I would try starting it and it would crank but not turn on. POnly way to get it to start was hold my foot on gas pedal and rev it while keeping my foot on brake and gas until I got on road and was going faster than 15 mph. Also I could be driving for some time and when stopping for whatever it would just die and I would have to hold my foot on gas pedal till I got going. Map sensor threw codes and replaced that. It sounds like its this idle air control valve. I have no tools or clue on how to replace that or where it is. I know nothing about engines or parts other than opening the hood and saying theres the engine.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Do you still have the old MAP sensor? If so swap it back in and see what happens.
Look at the passenger side of your Throttle body, IIRC its a 2 wire plug that goes into the TPS. The TPS is held onto the TB with 2 screws. Hope that helps you find it.
in any of that did the throttle screw get adjusted? if so it may be too far closed. (note: if the cap over the screw is still in place on the TB it wasn't adjusted and I wouldn't recommend fiddling with it). If it's too far closed the IAC would have a hard time compensating. A scan tool would be nice to see what position the IAC is at as that's a good indication of throttle plate position.
Another option would be to try resetting the IAC. Wouldn't hurt to try. Someone should have the procedure.
Last edited by Swift_Striker; Dec 21, 2009 at 12:55 PM.
I dont have the old map sensor . Im going to order a new idle air control valve and connector and pray this does it. I am not mechanically inclined but have gotten to be friends with the head mechanic at the dealer that Ive been getting the vette worked on at. He meets me and installs things for me after hours away from dealer. Hes saved me a ton of money. He put my fuel injectors in . That all together cost me almost 200 bucks and thru the dealer they wanted almost 1000. RIPOFF!!! Hes a nice guy and I trust him. Wish me luck... I pray this works!