Oil cooler
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: Valparaiso In
Oil cooler
I recently purchased an 85 that i am trying to bring back to life. It seems like everytime i go to fix somthing i break somthing else in the process. The car had been sitting outside in the elements for at a minimum of 3 yrs. Anyways i am really close to starting the engine for the first time since i have purchased it, and i was gonna change the oil in it before i start it up.
The oil filter had a different idea about being changed. I had a hell of a time getting it loose, Anyways in the process i damaged the oil cooler. My question is will that engine perform without the oil cooler installed? I am considering removing it all together. The hardware to install the filter without the cooler in place is already installed on the engine. I think all i will have to do is block the coolant lines that go to the cooler. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks....David
The oil filter had a different idea about being changed. I had a hell of a time getting it loose, Anyways in the process i damaged the oil cooler. My question is will that engine perform without the oil cooler installed? I am considering removing it all together. The hardware to install the filter without the cooler in place is already installed on the engine. I think all i will have to do is block the coolant lines that go to the cooler. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks....David
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
The cooler is there for a reason. The C4 cooling system is barely adequate making the oil cooler a kind of insurance. As I see it you have several options:
Block off the cooler, run it with a close eye on the oil temp gage.
Same as above but run Mobil 1. This is what GM did.
Fix your cooler.
Find a servicable cooler. May be difficult. Discontinued for a long time.
Add an external cooler.
I am sure there are others. Were I in your position I would do the above in the order listed.
Block off the cooler, run it with a close eye on the oil temp gage.
Same as above but run Mobil 1. This is what GM did.
Fix your cooler.
Find a servicable cooler. May be difficult. Discontinued for a long time.
Add an external cooler.
I am sure there are others. Were I in your position I would do the above in the order listed.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
IF you use a full synthetic oil, you shouldn't need the "oil cooler". You can remove the lines and install a threaded plug where the line entered the block. The cooling system won't miss the extra quart of coolant that usually is in the lines.
Typical oil temps are only 20-30 degree above coolant temp at normal operating temps so unless you plan to do something like track days, it won't hurt to not have the cooler.
GM didn't use a cooler with the LT1 because Mobil-1 handles high oil temps much better than dino oil. Also, they save money by not having al of the extra plumbing.
For an initial start-up, you can use dino oil with no problem. Once you start driving the car, you can switch to synthetic. But you may find that leaks will appear; synthetic oils do a better job of cleaning deposits so if there were previous leaks that stopped because of deposit buildups, synthetic oils will clean those deposits and leaks can re-appear.
Ifr the car sat for that long, it won't hurt to drain as much gas as you can and replace the fuel filter. Check the front of the A/C condenser and the radiator for dirt and debris. Having the fins clean will help with cooling. You can use a vacuum or take a garden hose to the back (fan) side of the radiator and use water pressure to clear out debris.
Typical oil temps are only 20-30 degree above coolant temp at normal operating temps so unless you plan to do something like track days, it won't hurt to not have the cooler.
GM didn't use a cooler with the LT1 because Mobil-1 handles high oil temps much better than dino oil. Also, they save money by not having al of the extra plumbing.
For an initial start-up, you can use dino oil with no problem. Once you start driving the car, you can switch to synthetic. But you may find that leaks will appear; synthetic oils do a better job of cleaning deposits so if there were previous leaks that stopped because of deposit buildups, synthetic oils will clean those deposits and leaks can re-appear.
Ifr the car sat for that long, it won't hurt to drain as much gas as you can and replace the fuel filter. Check the front of the A/C condenser and the radiator for dirt and debris. Having the fins clean will help with cooling. You can use a vacuum or take a garden hose to the back (fan) side of the radiator and use water pressure to clear out debris.
