Fast to build and cheap. Raises up a full 9 inches.
email me for plans

 

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how high are they from the floor to the top of the ramp ?

 

actually plywood turn up on it's side is stronger than than a 2 by. They are using them in rafters and joists now because of they way they are engineered it makes them strong and they won't bend or warp.

 

I back up onto my metal ramps then raise the front and put 4 jack stand under for safety takes Less that 3 minutes.. I will take a pick next time I do it.
Mine look like this but Yellow

 

My CCD cam was running......It captured it

 

Took my truck over to the local discount building supply house and picked up 2 of the 2X10X10' planks and another 6' plank that I cut in half. Cost so far is $25.62 taxes included.
Did this mock up with my Rhino ramps that I have had for several years.
I put the short plank under the Rhino to make it a bit higher. It looks like if I buy 2 more of the 2X10s (for each side) and lay them on edge along with several 2X4s on end between them that the width of the ramp would be a touch over 10". My tire width is just shy of 10".
I would then place 1/2" plywood over the top of the whole rig to give a height of 10". I would also have to place something on the flat portion of the Rhinos so I would not have to drive over the hump at the end.
Looks like I should also make up a short approach ramp to the Rhinos and find a way to attach them to the wood platform so they would not slip.
A 10' length is plenty to fit the C4 on.
Then I would cut out the middle section between the tires so I could drag them off to the side if I needed more room under the car to move around.
I will attempt it this weekend unless of course my bride decides we are going to Chicago to see a show and shop.
Preliminary mock up:


Fortunately I have enough room in the pole barn to store them when not in use.
Any suggestions are most welcome!

 

I also checked that I could have enough clearance to open the hood with the car on the ramps. I have 18" clearance now with the hood up so if I raise it 10" then I should be OK.
Let the wood butchering begin!

 

Nice start
I think I would consider some that are stationary and just park on them.

I am not using my regular ramps. I will just jack it and use jack stands, or blocks I guess. Too much pita with the body kit, and storage, I already NEVER use the regular ramps.

 

I am not quite sure of your details show me a little more of your idea and i will give you my two cents. I know a little bit about wood structures and wood strength. Retired union carpenter

 

We all spend quite a bit of moola on our cars so spend some on yourself and be safe. I bought a used Kwiklift after my buds camero fell on top of him when his homemade kwiklift collapsed and I thought he had made it very solid, only thing that saved him was the lumber stacking up after the collapsed. Be careful.

 

how high are they from the floor to the top of the ramp ?

there are 7 2X4's stacked then the ,2X12 top, 2X's are 1 5/8", I think but for easy math, 8X1 1/2=12, then 1/8 X8=1, so 13" you could make the stacks higher if you wanted. you'd just have to adjust your ramp accordingly.

Cool part is the middle comes out so each to work underneath. And when not in use, stacks up nicely.

 

Thanks! I plan to use 4 of the 2X10s and will place some 2X4s on end every foot in between the 2X10s to come up with a width of 10". There will be 1/2" plywood on top to bring the height to 10". I would hope that this would be strong enough to hold the car up.
I am not sure if I should nail or screw them together though. Would it be a good idea to use liquid nails along with the screws or nails too?

 

For safety sake you need something behind each front tire so the car can't roll off.

 

These are the ones I made, they work great. I use them for all my cars.

 

Make sure you put a bottom on them still not sure of details. you don't want them to fold under the pressure of the cars wieght. Don't use cheap screws or the gavanized silver ones they break sometimes under pressure. pre drill to avoid cracking, glue will hepl keep it tight, but make sure everything is right before it dryes. Just keep in mind to frame that it wont fold.

 

Fold? THAT got my attention. I think I will go with these as there is no way they will fold. Looks the most "unbreakable".

 

Why would it roll off?

 

I noticed the tire is barely onto the top board. Two inches back and it's off the end. Looks a bit scary to me, especially if you start jacking the back end up.
Had a car go down on a buddy in his driveway once. He got lucky with a few stiches to his face and a broken nose. Me and another guy lifted that 68 Camaro bare handed off his face with pure adrenaline while he was sceamin' like a banshee.

 

Hard to see from the picture, but the centerline is well onto the surface. As long as the car is not on an incline there would be no reason it would want to roll either way.
PS: Common sense would be to block it anyway as I do.

 

I take it that you are blocking the rear wheels ? That I think is the better choice. I still think I would of made everything a little longer.