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PKE issue

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Old May 9, 2010 | 12:04 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Wathen1955
After I read a boat load of threads on PKE, that was one of the potential issues was the door switch or the chime not operating. I'm planning on disconnecting the battery one more time and try re-programming mine, but I'm going to take a closer look at the door switches.

Let us know how it turns out.
Just an update. I'm not sure what I did but my PKE is working again at least for the time being. I replaced the passenger door light(ajar) switch and nothing changed. The AC Delco switches are pretty fragile and I ended up putting my old one back in and still no change. The other day it started working again. My problem was it would lock when walking away but not unlock when approaching the car, now it works fine.
Joe

Last edited by cal55; May 9, 2010 at 12:18 PM.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #22  
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Mine was a sticky door switch (driver's side of course). You can easily diagnose the PKE system by opening and closing the passenger side door to see if it turns on reliably. It's when the bad door switch isn't working, the system doesn't know if you are in or out of the car and does nothing.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 12:20 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mike100
Mine was a sticky door switch (driver's side of course). You can easily diagnose the PKE system by opening and closing the passenger side door to see if it turns on reliably. It's when the bad door switch isn't working, the system doesn't know if you are in or out of the car and does nothing.

Mine seemed to stop working after sitting all winter from lack of use I guess.
Joe
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Old May 9, 2010 | 12:22 PM
  #24  
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Did you get a new switch? On mine, I just shot some cleaner into it and worked the switch back and forth until it seemed to be fine again...also adjusted it out some to get a full stroke against the contact.

it seems that you need to remove the door panel to get a new one in there.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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Here is an update to my issue: I drove it to work on Thursday morning, and I noticed the PKE warning light was off. Hum...30 miles later when I get to work, I have to roll down the window to use my badge to get in the parking lot. When I rolled down the window, the PKE light came on and stayed on. Leaving for work, it was on and stayed on as soon as I started the car.
The next day Friday, I also drove it to work and noticed once again the light was off, but as soon as I roll the window down, the light comes back on. So on Saturday, I was going to try and attempt a reprogram, but now the light is on as soon as I turn the key to the on position.

I still have on question on all this programming: can it be done with the driver side door open, or do you have to sit in the car with the doors closed and have someone bring the remote to you?
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Old May 9, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Wathen1955
Here is an update to my issue: I drove it to work on Thursday morning, and I noticed the PKE warning light was off. Hum...30 miles later when I get to work, I have to roll down the window to use my badge to get in the parking lot. When I rolled down the window, the PKE light came on and stayed on. Leaving for work, it was on and stayed on as soon as I started the car.
The next day Friday, I also drove it to work and noticed once again the light was off, but as soon as I roll the window down, the light comes back on. So on Saturday, I was going to try and attempt a reprogram, but now the light is on as soon as I turn the key to the on position.

I still have on question on all this programming: can it be done with the driver side door open, or do you have to sit in the car with the doors closed and have someone bring the remote to you?

Charlie, just to be sure, take the panel off and ensure the antenna is plugged in. If the light comes on when you lower your window, it is trying to tell you something.

There are three antennas, one on each door and below the rear hatch mechanism.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 04:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Wathen1955
Here is an update to my issue: I drove it to work on Thursday morning, and I noticed the PKE warning light was off. Hum...30 miles later when I get to work, I have to roll down the window to use my badge to get in the parking lot. When I rolled down the window, the PKE light came on and stayed on. Leaving for work, it was on and stayed on as soon as I started the car.
The next day Friday, I also drove it to work and noticed once again the light was off, but as soon as I roll the window down, the light comes back on. So on Saturday, I was going to try and attempt a reprogram, but now the light is on as soon as I turn the key to the on position.

I still have on question on all this programming: can it be done with the driver side door open, or do you have to sit in the car with the doors closed and have someone bring the remote to you?
I don't believe the door has to be closed when reprogramming. I would do it with the doors closed anyway until the step where you bring the remote within range. Try it with the door open if you like and see if it works, I think it will. I agree with PLRX that it sounds like something behind the door panel is acting up if the PKE light comes on when the window is opened or closed.
Joe

Last edited by cal55; May 9, 2010 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2010 | 09:34 PM
  #28  
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UPDATE:
Got mine fixed finally. I took the vette in back on July 7 to the local chevy dealer. PLRX (Pete) was right - they have to do it the GM way. What I mean is they started from scratch to diagnose the problem, even though I already told them the error code 12 from the display from using Pete's FSM. After almost a week, they call me to say its the receiver that is bad.

It was the receiver module inside the dash. I was able to get another one from a salvage place for $125. Another $500 at the chevy dealer. $175 of that was for a new replacement PKE which they said was defective.

Its tempting to turn the damn thing off so it won't fail again LOL.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 03:31 AM
  #29  
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My advice...do what I did. Get the biggest hammer you have, smash the PKE clicker to smithereens, and deposit the remains into the nearest trash can. Next, find your nearest reputable car audio store and purchase an aftermarket keyless system. Mine was $140 installed. Took about 2 hours. It controls doors, and the hatch, with a lights/horn panic function. It came with 2 remotes, and I couldn't be happier!

Last edited by CMYC4GO; Jul 23, 2010 at 03:34 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2010 | 06:35 AM
  #30  
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I agree with you on the aftermarket system. My car chews thru 2 batteries per season. Thats over $10 per year in batteries. If the PKE goes belly up, I'll readily buy a damn good aftermarket alarm with the door unlock feature for less than the cost of a new receiver. The factory PKE was a great idea but.........
Mike
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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what brand of aftermarket system, also when I replaced the stereo there was the wierd aftereffect that I had to install two resistors in line so I did not get an error code, is there anything like this I need to worry about?
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 02:23 PM
  #32  
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Default power lock Problems

I have a 1993 coupe and if I leave the power lock fuss #42 in it will drain my battery down. Do anyone have a idea what could be the problem. The power lock works when the fuss in in. I don't have a FOB for the PKE.
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Old Jan 31, 2012 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by vette'sunlimited
I have a 1993 coupe and if I leave the power lock fuss #42 in it will drain my battery down. Do anyone have a idea what could be the problem. The power lock works when the fuss in in. I don't have a FOB for the PKE.
...just a guess....sounds like you have a short some where. I hopw you find the problem. A dead battery is no fun.
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