Late C4 door panel fix
07-28-2010, 11:24 AM
#21
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: Washington District of Columbia
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I removed the passenger door so that I could find the root cause of the problem. Once I did that, I found that I could repair the driver door side without removing it at all, as the panel has enough flex, so that you may pull it back and cut the excess foam underneath. Also, you can sight the door tab as well, so that you can drill and install a screw on the side of the door panel itself. Hope this clears things up!
07-28-2010, 01:40 PM
#22
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Fort Knox, KY
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Good write-up. I was thinking about drilling a tiny hole in the top part of my door panel, then inserting a nylon zip tie through it and one of the openings on top of the door assembly.
07-28-2010, 02:34 PM
#23
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I thought of that too, but cosmetically, you will easily see the zip tie with the window down. The screw in the back of the door panel (about halfway down from the top) looks factory. I just don't want you to ruin an expensive door panel! Cut the foam down by 3/4 and then drill the hole at the back of the panel and install the wide, flat head screw. It is easy! The excess weatherstripping foam on either end of the door panel is what puts the upward pressure on the panel. Leave a little for the attachment and you'll be fine.
07-29-2010, 03:29 PM
#24
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Fort Knox, KY
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
I thought of that too, but cosmetically, you will easily see the zip tie with the window down. The screw in the back of the door panel (about halfway down from the top) looks factory. I just don't want you to ruin an expensive door panel! Cut the foam down by 3/4 and then drill the hole at the back of the panel and install the wide, flat head screw. It is easy! The excess weatherstripping foam on either end of the door panel is what puts the upward pressure on the panel. Leave a little for the attachment and you'll be fine.
Mine does have the panel on the side of the door you're describing for the flat head screw.
I'll study your write-up some more this weekend and see if I can adapt the procedure to fit my '92 door panel.
Thanks!
07-29-2010, 03:34 PM
#25
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Fort Knox, KY
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
the last owner put a screw in that tab and its stripped so it doesnt hold...SUCKS!
You can order both the door panel screws and the nylon "nuts" that retain them online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
You can order both the door panel screws and the nylon "nuts" that retain them online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
07-30-2010, 09:45 AM
#26
The PO on mine drilled a hole near the top rear of each door panel into the door itself and put a large screw in there. He also put a large screw with a huge washer on that tab because it was tearing the door panel loose. Unfortunately it seems when that tab tore off the force on the top of the door was too much for the screw he put in and that pulled out. Evidently more than once since there are about 5 holes in the inside door skin ( which is fiberglass ). I bought some plastic bonding adhesive that you mix since this guy broke almost every plastic tab that holds body panels, dash panels etc and have been repairing them one by one, this stuff is REALLY strong.
I was able to bond that tab back together ( broke in 2 places ) and it holds now. I then drilled a new hole for the upper screw until I can get the panel fixed correctly.
I was able to bond that tab back together ( broke in 2 places ) and it holds now. I then drilled a new hole for the upper screw until I can get the panel fixed correctly.
08-23-2010, 02:26 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
Way to go Regis. This is one of those things I never got around to doing but I am glad to see you are taking good care of my old "baby". By the way, I hope you were able to get a replacement hatch weatherstrip from Willcox. I wrote a brief post in the General Discussion area (in the Willcox Sale thread) about how their strip came apart in less than a year. I had sent them an email back when I sold you the car and they should have made good on this.
Doug
Doug
08-23-2010, 03:26 PM
#28
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Heya Doug, thinking about you too and thanks for the tip on the weatherstripping. I applied Vinylex last weekend to every bit of rubber on the 'Red One' and thought about the broken section. I may just take them up on that! The car is still looking great and now that both door panels aren't rattling, it's even better! Gawd do I love my car!
09-23-2010, 10:20 AM
#30
Burning Brakes
I finally fixed my door panels last week. I cut out some pieces of sheet metal, drilled them, and riveted them in place. It works great! Pics to come when I get a chance, although I'm sure it looks similar to fixes done by others...
09-24-2010, 08:22 AM
#31
Pictures would be good, I plan to do fix both of mine this winter after I finish my other project.
09-24-2010, 10:41 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
It's really quite simple. Take a ratchet tie-down strap and use it to pull the ribs back together. Then just take a piece of sheet metal and some tin snips, cut out a rough piece and shape it until it fits. Use it as a template to make three more. You will have to do this three times since there are three ribs that can / will crack per door and I put a piece on both sides. Clamp the two pieces per rib together and drill them with a bit that corresponds to the rivet size you plan on using and make sure the rivet fits well. Drill a corresponding hole in the door rib, and rivet the two pieces in place. That's all there is to it! It's a great Saturday project that isn't hard, just time consuming. I am super happy with the results so far!
09-29-2010, 03:39 PM
#33
It sounds like you may have been a tin banger at some time since you actually call the snips by the right name
From what I gather in your post you make a sandwich out of the door panel with sheet metal on both sides? What gauge sheet metal did you use? Has it held so far without springing back?
From what I gather in your post you make a sandwich out of the door panel with sheet metal on both sides? What gauge sheet metal did you use? Has it held so far without springing back?
09-29-2010, 04:36 PM
#34
Burning Brakes
It's held up great so far...The car is a daily driver so the doors do get used many times a day.
Not sure what gauge steel it is, since I found it in the corner of my buddy's garage. I would say just use your best judgment when selecting the gauge.
I was never a tin banger by trade: I'm an engineer that has always loved to tinker and still does. I learned most of my skills in college when I started modding cars doing general tinkering...You gotta get creative when you don't have any money!
Not sure what gauge steel it is, since I found it in the corner of my buddy's garage. I would say just use your best judgment when selecting the gauge.
I was never a tin banger by trade: I'm an engineer that has always loved to tinker and still does. I learned most of my skills in college when I started modding cars doing general tinkering...You gotta get creative when you don't have any money!
09-29-2010, 04:49 PM
#35
Roadster Madness. 😠
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: Ventura Co Ca
Posts: 5,500
Received 1,510 Likes
on
864 Posts
SoCal Regional Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '13, '20-'21
I did this about two weeks ago. I was getting ready for a car show, so I did not have time to write it up. I have a lot pictures and will try and write it up this weekend. I also did the outer window seals at the same time so I will also add that.
I made patterns for the driver side ribs on a ’95 Vert. If anyone needs them, PM me with a fax number and I will fax them over.
05-16-2014, 08:38 PM
#36
Intermediate
Member Since: Apr 2014
Location: Plano TX
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
am i SOL
The gentleman that owned my 95 before me attempted this repar without trimming the stripping or using the wide flat head screw. Now there is a rip in the door panel where the screw tore straight through (much like pulling a notebook paper out of a 3 ring binder).No idea what to try now. $500 for a new panel just isnt feasible in the near future. Any and all thoughts are welcome. Thanks .. I'll try to post a picture of it soon.
05-19-2014, 02:19 PM
#37
Roadster Madness. 😠
Member Since: Sep 2009
Location: Ventura Co Ca
Posts: 5,500
Received 1,510 Likes
on
864 Posts
SoCal Regional Events Coordinator
St. Jude Donor '13, '20-'21
The gentleman that owned my 95 before me attempted this repar without trimming the stripping or using the wide flat head screw. Now there is a rip in the door panel where the screw tore straight through (much like pulling a notebook paper out of a 3 ring binder).No idea what to try now. $500 for a new panel just isnt feasible in the near future. Any and all thoughts are welcome. Thanks .. I'll try to post a picture of it soon.
08-04-2014, 06:00 PM
#38
Advanced
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Hendersonville tn
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
screws in panel
I removed the passenger door so that I could find the root cause of the problem. Once I did that, I found that I could repair the driver door side without removing it at all, as the panel has enough flex, so that you may pull it back and cut the excess foam underneath. Also, you can sight the door tab as well, so that you can drill and install a screw on the side of the door panel itself. Hope this clears things up!
08-04-2014, 06:12 PM
#39
Advanced
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Hendersonville tn
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
scres
I've seen a lot of threads on this, including repair on the broken ribs. Allow me to add my take on this problem. My 95' had both door panels loose on the top, since I purchased it six months or so ago. I finally decided to fix it last weekend. I didn't have a computer available, so I had to use the 'direct observation' or head scratching way of figuring it out. The ribs weren't broken either, so no problem there.
The biggest problem is the design. The outer edge of the door panel is supposed to hook over the inner edge of the door. It is held in place by a half dozen plastic fasterners.
Those plastic (and pliable) fasteners along the bottom are the only thing holding the door panel in place. But the biggest problem, that I saw was the weather stripping on either end at the top of the door.
This is a huge 3/4 inch thick foam rubber on each end that pushes the door panel upwards against those little fasteners on the bottom! No wonder the door panel can't seat at the top. Now to remove the door panel. The right tool really helps and I used a Lisle Door Upholstery Remover, with the fork shape and wide face. It is thin and doesn't damage the fasteners or the door panels. Well worth the $10-$12 on a $600 door panel. They pop right out.
So I eyeballed the weather stripping right where the door panel sat on both the front end of the door and the back end of the door and marked it. Then I took a sharp, short knife and carved just about all of it, leaving only a 1/4 inch for cushioning the door panel against the top of the door.
Now the door panel sits with a lot less resistance than before, but it would still easily pop out. I figured out, what many others had figured out and eyed the large and unused 'tab' that stuck out the back side of the structure of the inner door itself, about half way down. Why, a screw could go there and hold it down in place, easily. Got a wide head black sheet metal screw and while pushing the door down with one hand and putting the knee to the door panel and pushing it inward, I drilled a small hole through the back of the door panel and through the tab.
Then I put in the screw and by golly, it worked and you couldn't tell it wasn't factory. No more ugly gap, loose panel, nor funny looks when a passenger got in. No rattles either and I did it to the drivers side, without having to remove the door panel at all. Just bend it back real nice like, cut the foam away, leaving just a little for 'cush' and put the screw in. The biggest detractor from my Corvette's appearance is now gone.
The biggest problem is the design. The outer edge of the door panel is supposed to hook over the inner edge of the door. It is held in place by a half dozen plastic fasterners.
Those plastic (and pliable) fasteners along the bottom are the only thing holding the door panel in place. But the biggest problem, that I saw was the weather stripping on either end at the top of the door.
This is a huge 3/4 inch thick foam rubber on each end that pushes the door panel upwards against those little fasteners on the bottom! No wonder the door panel can't seat at the top. Now to remove the door panel. The right tool really helps and I used a Lisle Door Upholstery Remover, with the fork shape and wide face. It is thin and doesn't damage the fasteners or the door panels. Well worth the $10-$12 on a $600 door panel. They pop right out.
So I eyeballed the weather stripping right where the door panel sat on both the front end of the door and the back end of the door and marked it. Then I took a sharp, short knife and carved just about all of it, leaving only a 1/4 inch for cushioning the door panel against the top of the door.
Now the door panel sits with a lot less resistance than before, but it would still easily pop out. I figured out, what many others had figured out and eyed the large and unused 'tab' that stuck out the back side of the structure of the inner door itself, about half way down. Why, a screw could go there and hold it down in place, easily. Got a wide head black sheet metal screw and while pushing the door down with one hand and putting the knee to the door panel and pushing it inward, I drilled a small hole through the back of the door panel and through the tab.
Then I put in the screw and by golly, it worked and you couldn't tell it wasn't factory. No more ugly gap, loose panel, nor funny looks when a passenger got in. No rattles either and I did it to the drivers side, without having to remove the door panel at all. Just bend it back real nice like, cut the foam away, leaving just a little for 'cush' and put the screw in. The biggest detractor from my Corvette's appearance is now gone.
08-05-2014, 02:25 PM
#40
Le Mans Master
Please post pic of finished door, showing screw.
My panel has been detached at top on 95 for years. Tried fixing before, but would not stay seated. I don't recall if ribs are broken or what. Thx
My panel has been detached at top on 95 for years. Tried fixing before, but would not stay seated. I don't recall if ribs are broken or what. Thx