Battery dies after checking engine code
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Battery dies after checking engine code
I just returned from a trip when my service engine soon light started coming on. after arriving I checked for a code by jumping the diagnostics link as prescibed. while checking for a code the radiator fan began running. i recieved a code 32 ( egr ) or sensor. Now the battery will not hold a charge. the alternater is putting out 13.4 to 13.9 steady when the car is running.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,830
Likes: 147
From: Gainesville FL
Check battery
I just returned from a trip when my service engine soon light started coming on. after arriving I checked for a code by jumping the diagnostics link as prescibed. while checking for a code the radiator fan began running. i recieved a code 32 ( egr ) or sensor. Now the battery will not hold a charge. the alternater is putting out 13.4 to 13.9 steady when the car is running.
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 637
Likes: 0
I just returned from a trip when my service engine soon light started coming on. after arriving I checked for a code by jumping the diagnostics link as prescibed. while checking for a code the radiator fan began running. i recieved a code 32 ( egr ) or sensor. Now the battery will not hold a charge. the alternater is putting out 13.4 to 13.9 steady when the car is running.
Maybe your battery already had problems, you just didn´t know about it.
I would rather like to see 14+ volts when charging.
Charge the battery with the neg. batt. cable disconnected overnight (no express charge or speed charge), then when you disconnect the charger in the morning, you should see about 12,5-12,9 volts, if it´s 12- volts like 11,8-11,9 you can get a new battery (assuming the charger works ok).
How old is the battery?
With the voltmeter on the battery connected in the car and the motor running, raise the RPM´s just a little like 1000-1200, what reading do you get then?
Does the engine run rough or hesitate when the SES light comes on (EGR code 32)?
If not, then there is no fear, many vettes have this condition.
Last edited by vette079; Aug 5, 2010 at 04:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
And it´s normal for the fan to come on, it´s supposed to do that.
Maybe your battery already had problems, you just didn´t know about it.
I would rather like to see 14+ volts when charging.
Charge the battery with the neg. batt. cable disconnected overnight (no express charge or speed charge), then when you disconnect the charger in the morning, you should see about 12,5-12,9 volts, if it´s 12- volts like 11,8-11,9 you can get a new battery (assuming the charger works ok).
How old is the battery?
With the voltmeter on the battery connected in the car and the motor running, raise the RPM´s just a little like 1000-1200, what reading do you get then?
Does the engine run rough or hesitate when the SES light comes on (EGR code 32)?
If not, then there is no fear, many vettes have this condition.
Maybe your battery already had problems, you just didn´t know about it.
I would rather like to see 14+ volts when charging.
Charge the battery with the neg. batt. cable disconnected overnight (no express charge or speed charge), then when you disconnect the charger in the morning, you should see about 12,5-12,9 volts, if it´s 12- volts like 11,8-11,9 you can get a new battery (assuming the charger works ok).
How old is the battery?
With the voltmeter on the battery connected in the car and the motor running, raise the RPM´s just a little like 1000-1200, what reading do you get then?
Does the engine run rough or hesitate when the SES light comes on (EGR code 32)?
If not, then there is no fear, many vettes have this condition.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 8
From: Westerly RI
To see if the battery is truly ok, after charging you need to put a load test on it. Just checking with a dvm is not enough.
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Normal output from the alternator is 14.7 volts across the battery terminals and due to the normal 0.3 volts drop across the ignition switch contacts, the dash voltmeter will read about 14.4 volts. The alternator output voltage drops to 13.7 volts when the alternator is at its operating temperature and the dash voltmeter will read 13.4 volts. Below 13 volts you should question the alternator and/or battery. Also, the dash voltmeter reads low when the alternator is not charging the battery and it cannot be trusted. Batteries are considered discharged at 12.0 volts and below and should be charged up with a battery charger at least overnight. Batteries are fully charged at 12.9 volts or higher and linear in between (example, 12.55 volts, 50% charged).
When you check for stored error codes, it is normal for the engine cooling fan to run. If you remove the neg battery cable and connect an ammeter from the neg cable to the neg battery post and wait for the courtesy lights to time out, the leakage current should not exceed 50 milliamps according to GM. My 87 draws 27 milliamps and I have no trouble with my battery.
When you check for stored error codes, it is normal for the engine cooling fan to run. If you remove the neg battery cable and connect an ammeter from the neg cable to the neg battery post and wait for the courtesy lights to time out, the leakage current should not exceed 50 milliamps according to GM. My 87 draws 27 milliamps and I have no trouble with my battery.
