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Battery dies after checking engine code

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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Default Battery dies after checking engine code

I just returned from a trip when my service engine soon light started coming on. after arriving I checked for a code by jumping the diagnostics link as prescibed. while checking for a code the radiator fan began running. i recieved a code 32 ( egr ) or sensor. Now the battery will not hold a charge. the alternater is putting out 13.4 to 13.9 steady when the car is running.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:18 PM
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What year is your car?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 03:30 PM
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Default Check battery

Originally Posted by midnightrdr
I just returned from a trip when my service engine soon light started coming on. after arriving I checked for a code by jumping the diagnostics link as prescibed. while checking for a code the radiator fan began running. i recieved a code 32 ( egr ) or sensor. Now the battery will not hold a charge. the alternater is putting out 13.4 to 13.9 steady when the car is running.
When the battery is iffy the ECM can pull all kinds of strangeness. Make sure you have a good battery.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by midnightrdr
I just returned from a trip when my service engine soon light started coming on. after arriving I checked for a code by jumping the diagnostics link as prescibed. while checking for a code the radiator fan began running. i recieved a code 32 ( egr ) or sensor. Now the battery will not hold a charge. the alternater is putting out 13.4 to 13.9 steady when the car is running.
And it´s normal for the fan to come on, it´s supposed to do that.

Maybe your battery already had problems, you just didn´t know about it.
I would rather like to see 14+ volts when charging.

Charge the battery with the neg. batt. cable disconnected overnight (no express charge or speed charge), then when you disconnect the charger in the morning, you should see about 12,5-12,9 volts, if it´s 12- volts like 11,8-11,9 you can get a new battery (assuming the charger works ok).
How old is the battery?
With the voltmeter on the battery connected in the car and the motor running, raise the RPM´s just a little like 1000-1200, what reading do you get then?

Does the engine run rough or hesitate when the SES light comes on (EGR code 32)?
If not, then there is no fear, many vettes have this condition.

Last edited by vette079; Aug 5, 2010 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorsteve
What year is your car?
1989. had battery tested and charged. started this morning and this afternoon after sitting but only showed 11.9 on gauge before start. Some told me the security system can pull the battery down. any thoughts. Thanks for all info given.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by vette079
And it´s normal for the fan to come on, it´s supposed to do that.

Maybe your battery already had problems, you just didn´t know about it.
I would rather like to see 14+ volts when charging.

Charge the battery with the neg. batt. cable disconnected overnight (no express charge or speed charge), then when you disconnect the charger in the morning, you should see about 12,5-12,9 volts, if it´s 12- volts like 11,8-11,9 you can get a new battery (assuming the charger works ok).
How old is the battery?
With the voltmeter on the battery connected in the car and the motor running, raise the RPM´s just a little like 1000-1200, what reading do you get then?

Does the engine run rough or hesitate when the SES light comes on (EGR code 32)?
If not, then there is no fear, many vettes have this condition.
Thanks, 11.9 on gauge after sitting over night and today. started ok this time. 14+ when rpms are up. No engine issues with code. 85 mph strong and steady when on trip, 24-25 mpg and all instrmentation good. Will try new battery.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by midnightrdr
1989. had battery tested and charged. started this morning and this afternoon after sitting but only showed 11.9 on gauge before start. Some told me the security system can pull the battery down. any thoughts. Thanks for all info given.
To see if the battery is truly ok, after charging you need to put a load test on it. Just checking with a dvm is not enough.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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Was load tested at Parts House. Reading is from dash gauge when I turn key on
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Normal output from the alternator is 14.7 volts across the battery terminals and due to the normal 0.3 volts drop across the ignition switch contacts, the dash voltmeter will read about 14.4 volts. The alternator output voltage drops to 13.7 volts when the alternator is at its operating temperature and the dash voltmeter will read 13.4 volts. Below 13 volts you should question the alternator and/or battery. Also, the dash voltmeter reads low when the alternator is not charging the battery and it cannot be trusted. Batteries are considered discharged at 12.0 volts and below and should be charged up with a battery charger at least overnight. Batteries are fully charged at 12.9 volts or higher and linear in between (example, 12.55 volts, 50% charged).
When you check for stored error codes, it is normal for the engine cooling fan to run. If you remove the neg battery cable and connect an ammeter from the neg cable to the neg battery post and wait for the courtesy lights to time out, the leakage current should not exceed 50 milliamps according to GM. My 87 draws 27 milliamps and I have no trouble with my battery.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rharker
When the battery is iffy the ECM can pull all kinds of strangeness. Make sure you have a good battery.
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