Battery dies after checking engine code
Maybe your battery already had problems, you just didn´t know about it.
I would rather like to see 14+ volts when charging.
Charge the battery with the neg. batt. cable disconnected overnight (no express charge or speed charge), then when you disconnect the charger in the morning, you should see about 12,5-12,9 volts, if it´s 12- volts like 11,8-11,9 you can get a new battery (assuming the charger works ok).
How old is the battery?
With the voltmeter on the battery connected in the car and the motor running, raise the RPM´s just a little like 1000-1200, what reading do you get then?
Does the engine run rough or hesitate when the SES light comes on (EGR code 32)?
If not, then there is no fear, many vettes have this condition.
Last edited by vette079; Aug 5, 2010 at 04:48 PM.
Maybe your battery already had problems, you just didn´t know about it.
I would rather like to see 14+ volts when charging.
Charge the battery with the neg. batt. cable disconnected overnight (no express charge or speed charge), then when you disconnect the charger in the morning, you should see about 12,5-12,9 volts, if it´s 12- volts like 11,8-11,9 you can get a new battery (assuming the charger works ok).
How old is the battery?
With the voltmeter on the battery connected in the car and the motor running, raise the RPM´s just a little like 1000-1200, what reading do you get then?
Does the engine run rough or hesitate when the SES light comes on (EGR code 32)?
If not, then there is no fear, many vettes have this condition.
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When you check for stored error codes, it is normal for the engine cooling fan to run. If you remove the neg battery cable and connect an ammeter from the neg cable to the neg battery post and wait for the courtesy lights to time out, the leakage current should not exceed 50 milliamps according to GM. My 87 draws 27 milliamps and I have no trouble with my battery.















