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Chassis Lube

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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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Default Chassis Lube

I'd bet that the Chassis Lube always rates nearly at the bottom of taking care of our Corvettes. I was inspired to do my very clean 95', because the hood release under the dash was starting to get particularly difficult. You had to use four fingers and it was letting go with a sharp bang after much pressure.

Also, I noticed how many power antenna problems there are with these cars. Just how often does that antenna go up and down, year after year? When was the last time your antenna got lubed?

I had the suspension just recently lubricated at the Chevy dealership, but they didn't do the rest, so I took that on, with the help from my service manual. What really helps here, is to have a hypodermic or syringe with a decent needle gauge, as many of the lube points, use regular motor oil.

I did the hood pivots, door hinges, antenna, hood release, hatchback, throttle body pivots, and any thing else, the SFM called out. I used the hypodermic to put motor oil, directly into the hood latch cable and guess what? It works easily now. I wiped the old lube off the antenna and applied a thin coat to it too. The doors close easier as well. Well worth an hour or so.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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If I recall correctly, my owner's manual says to not use any lube on the antennae. It says to use a rag with solvent to wipe it down and clean it but not to apply any oil to it.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by corvetteronw
If I recall correctly, my owner's manual says to not use any lube on the antennae. It says to use a rag with solvent to wipe it down and clean it but not to apply any oil to it.

Could be the Owners Manual and SFM have a conflict. I didn't look at the Owners Manual, but used the factory 1987 Service Manual and that's what was specified. I'll take a look at the 95's service manual tonight and see if there's any diff between the two. Who knows, they might've changed their minds!
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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Oil picks up contaminants and actually hurts the movement. a clean, dry rag is best. If they fail to retract all the way (as mine does) it means the ribbon is toast.
Mike
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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Allow me to chime in here since I have questioned the recommendations in the owners manual a couple of times but first before I get to that, regarding antenna lube, the owner's manual for my 94 says that the mast should not require any lubrication but if you want to lube it then use linseed oil only. Since I couldn't find linseed oil in a small quantity I just wipe it very throughly with a clean rag or with the cotton t shirt I've used to buff wax with when I'm done waxing. BTW, I find it does require this care as it will fail to raise and lower properly if not maintained as it tends to get clogged with dirt.

Regarding questionable recommendations: For oil changes the owner's manual states that if you do mostly stop n go city driving then you should change the oil & filter every 3000 mis but if you do mostly highway driving you can let it go up to 7500 mis and skip the filter change every other oil change. I'm highly skeptical of this recommendation to skip the filter change. Anyone care to offer an opinion? Sorry if this has been discussed previously.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ragni
Allow me to chime in here since I have questioned the recommendations in the owners manual a couple of times but first before I get to that, regarding antenna lube, the owner's manual for my 94 says that the mast should not require any lubrication but if you want to lube it then use linseed oil only. Since I couldn't find linseed oil in a small quantity I just wipe it very throughly with a clean rag or with the cotton t shirt I've used to buff wax with when I'm done waxing. BTW, I find it does require this care as it will fail to raise and lower properly if not maintained as it tends to get clogged with dirt.

Regarding questionable recommendations: For oil changes the owner's manual states that if you do mostly stop n go city driving then you should change the oil & filter every 3000 mis but if you do mostly highway driving you can let it go up to 7500 mis and skip the filter change every other oil change. I'm highly skeptical of this recommendation to skip the filter change. Anyone care to offer an opinion? Sorry if this has been discussed previously.
a oil filter is less then 5 bucks. why not change it when you do a oil change.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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While we're on the subject of chassis lube, what's the best one for lubing ball joints? I had to grease some new upper and lower front ball joints, steering tie rods as well as the end links on the toe link in back.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
a oil filter is less then 5 bucks. why not change it when you do a oil change.
Actually the premium ones cost about twice that but regardless, my thoughts were the same as yours. I was just wondering if other owners use this recommendation in practice.

BTW, I just checked the FSM and it lists the same recommendation regarding oil & filter changes.
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