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go back and read my post again, it troubleshoots the VATS system which is likely why your vette won't crank.
Originally Posted by jfb
This is usually what causes VATS to prevent the starter from cranking the engine. That is, the contacts in the ign lock wear and fail to make connection to the pellet in the ign key.
OP states in post #12 above " i hot wired the starter and the car started normally "
VATS takes out the fuel injectors as well as the starter so if it was a VATS problem engine would not start when starter hotwired
Problem is with starter circuit
If the VATS module will not close the start enable relay. THAT is a VATS problem!
Correct.
But you are telling him to check the key pellet resistance and wiring which is not relevant in this case.
VATS module is seeing correct resistance and operating; otherwise engine would not fire and run when hot wired.
What he should be doing is bypassing the enable relay with a jumper after confirming he has 12V to relay with key in start position
If your 91 is a manual transmission, the clutch safety switch has a two pin connector. This switch is at the top of the clutch pedal bracket. If automatic, the gear selector switch is at the base of the gear shift and it too has a two pin connector. Now go back and read my post again, it troubleshoots the VATS system which is likely why your vette won't crank.
i did read it many times and i really thank u guys all for the help, but when i hot wired the starter the car started normally and i drove it around my house, which means that the vats is ok because when its not it shuts the injectors too, my car is auto and the p/n sw has six wires two big ones the yellow and purple , as rodj says they r the starter wires , as i understood so far the yellow comes from the relay and the purple goes to the starter
Correct.
But you are telling him to check the key pellet resistance and wiring which is not relevant in this case.
VATS module is seeing correct resistance and operating; otherwise engine would not fire and run when hot wired.
What he should be doing is bypassing the enable relay with a jumper after confirming he has 12V to relay with key in start position
and i will do that first thing in the morning, i will replace it with the one i bought from auto zone
Last edited by Ricky 91 vette; Oct 9, 2010 at 05:48 AM.
and i will do that first thing in the morning, i will replace it with the one i bought from auto zone
Before you do , check there is 12V on the heavy yellow wire of relay plug when key in start or jumper the two yellows and see if engine will start. If it doesn't, you have no power coming from Ign switch and a new relay won't change anything
Originally Posted by Ricky 91 vette
i drove it around my house, which means that the vats is ok
But as JFB notes; the VATS module could be faulty on only the starter enable circuit .
If it turns out that is the case; you can permanently bypass the starter relay and VATS will still take out the injectors to prevent someone stealing your car
Before you do , check there is 12V on the heavy yellow wire of relay plug when key in start or jumper the two yellows and see if engine will start. If it doesn't, you have no power coming from Ign switch and a new relay won't change anything
But as JFB notes; the VATS module could be faulty on only the starter enable circuit .
If it turns out that is the case; you can permanently bypass the starter relay and VATS will still take out the injectors to prevent someone stealing your car
it end up to be a defective relay I checked the yellow wire as u told me and it had power I changed the relay and it started normally , just in case I had bad conection I put back the old one and it didn't start so I know for sure it was only the relay the whole time!! Thanks to u guys all for the help and support my car is running normaly again and now I can continue tuning it
So now you know how to trouble shoot electrics
Hotwire a item to make sure it is working correctly, then just follow power through the circuit until it disappears
That is why I recommend getting the FSM; it shows the exact path power takes
So now you know how to trouble shoot electrics
Hotwire a item to make sure it is working correctly, then just follow power through the circuit until it disappears
That is why I recommend getting the FSM; it shows the exact path power takes
yah, thanks alot, now i have better idea about that, thanks to u guys all,, i would buy the fsm but i'm kind of on budget right now.