Dash Cluster WHY ARE THINGS SO DIFFICULT?
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Joined: Jun 2010
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Dash Cluster WHY ARE THINGS SO DIFFICULT?
I just put in my newly rebuilt dash cluster, it was growing dim and after sitting for many years it stopped illuminating completely. Its back and still dark! No I didn't bother to check the fuses 'cause I was going to do this anyway but now that I have to which fuse/ fuses need to be replaced? Cluster fuse, Gauge Fuse, LCD Fuse or all 3? If anyone could illuminate this situation for me -after they stop laughing at me - I would appreciate it. Oh before I forget Agent 86, thanks for all that info on your last response concerning the air pipe and sensors I needed. I don't know why Agent 99 talks so badly about you,?
Last edited by TheKid!!; Oct 16, 2010 at 09:26 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,624
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From: Canandaigua New York
You're got to be a little more specific than just 'dark'.
Do the gauges work?
If not, then you have a voltage supply issue and you need to check the 'LCD' fuse.
Also check the 'CLSTR' fuse.
If the gauges work and the bulbs aren't, then you need to check the 'INST' fuse or the bulbs.
If the fuses and bulbs check out, then you need to check the harness that plugs into the display for the voltages that supply it. Also check for a bad or missing 'ground' to the cluster.
Do the gauges work?
If not, then you have a voltage supply issue and you need to check the 'LCD' fuse.
Also check the 'CLSTR' fuse.
If the gauges work and the bulbs aren't, then you need to check the 'INST' fuse or the bulbs.
If the fuses and bulbs check out, then you need to check the harness that plugs into the display for the voltages that supply it. Also check for a bad or missing 'ground' to the cluster.
Last edited by Keystring; Oct 17, 2010 at 11:30 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
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From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
What he means is that if you take the overlay panel off the cluster, there are 4 stainless steel flat covers that are on the cluster. These are bulb covers. if you take the covers off, the bulbs are in holes that are really bulbsockets that are installed from the back.
The good news is that if you have some really small needle nose pliers, you can wrap the jaws with masking tape, and grab onto the bulbs gently, and pull them out from the front through those holes.
If you make a total mess of the bulbs, and can't get the rest of the bulb out the front, you can always remove the cluster again, and take the metal back off of it and unscrew the socket containing the rest of the stuck bulb. The new bulbs at NAPA are bulb number 882, and they come with new sockets. Just replace.
Oh, the bad news is they are about $8 each and there are 4 of them. They are smaller than the third brake light bulb and about as expensive.
The good news is that if you have some really small needle nose pliers, you can wrap the jaws with masking tape, and grab onto the bulbs gently, and pull them out from the front through those holes.
If you make a total mess of the bulbs, and can't get the rest of the bulb out the front, you can always remove the cluster again, and take the metal back off of it and unscrew the socket containing the rest of the stuck bulb. The new bulbs at NAPA are bulb number 882, and they come with new sockets. Just replace.
Oh, the bad news is they are about $8 each and there are 4 of them. They are smaller than the third brake light bulb and about as expensive.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Wrap masking tape around the lamps with some overlap and use a needlenose pliers on the overlap and pull the lamp straight out. DO NOT rotate the lamp or you will have to take the cluster apart to replace the sockets because they twist lock from the front (away from the driver) of the rear circuit board. Use a piece of tubing to hold the lamps to install them. These lamps are quartz iodine and the lamps should not have your fingerprints on them after installing them. Use a Q tip and alcohol to wipe them off after installation.
I would be surprised to find out you have dead lamps in an overhauled cluster. The lamps get power through two fuses, the INST fuse and the TAIL fuse. Check both fuses with an ohmeter.
Also, from now on, state what year vette you are asking help for, no one here is clairvoyant, and all C4 years are NOT made exactly alike.
I would be surprised to find out you have dead lamps in an overhauled cluster. The lamps get power through two fuses, the INST fuse and the TAIL fuse. Check both fuses with an ohmeter.
Also, from now on, state what year vette you are asking help for, no one here is clairvoyant, and all C4 years are NOT made exactly alike.
Last edited by jfb; Oct 17, 2010 at 12:30 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Supreme Soviet Peace-Loving Pipple's Kollektive of Seattle Wa
We're glad to try to help, but help us first...
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,624
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From: Canandaigua New York
I think some here missed the fact that he already had the cluster rebuilt and it's still dark.
Unless the rebuilder did a really lousy job, I'm thinking he has an electrical issue.
I only suggested testing the bulbs to make sure that they are good and the rebuilder didn't just skip replacing them.
Unless the rebuilder did a really lousy job, I'm thinking he has an electrical issue.
I only suggested testing the bulbs to make sure that they are good and the rebuilder didn't just skip replacing them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
I don't get it either - there shouldn't be any need to replace bulbs on a replacement and digging into it may muck up any warranty. Assuming this an early C4, check Cluster Grounds D1 & D3. Up until '89 (when GM got tired of replacing good clusters with simple wiring problems and changed the routing of the grounds), they run through the bottom of Big Connector behind the battery which is prone to water intrusion which can eat up the connectors. Under the theory that one may still be good, splice them together or jumper to a good ground to see if that lights it up.
