Getting New Paint!!!!!





However, Their is a tremendous amount of labor involved in painting one right. The standard is so high now that 300+ hours can go into a single paint job and still not come out perfect. Not to mention the cost of materials.
For just the materials alone for a $6000 paint job
PPG Deltron price list (deltron is the GM recommended refinish material)
Basecoat is $400 per gallon
Clearcoat is $300 per gallon
Primer is $200 per gallon.
basecoat reducer is $66 per gallon
Clear coat catalyst is $80 per quart.
Primer catalyst is $60 per quart.
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total $1106
Then you got prep and buffing products.
I spend close to $250 per car on tape, masking materials, sand paper, body filler/fiberglass, and gun cleaner.
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total $250
The 3m perfect it paint polishing system is
6 trizat P2000 & P2500 dics = $50
1 quart fast cut compound = $65
1 quart finishing compound = $70
1 quart swirl removal compound = $90
1 quart ultra fine finish compound = $90 (dark colors only)
4 foam polishing bonnets (course, med, fine and ultra fine) $100
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Total: $465
Grand total: $1821 in just paint materials. Don't forget about door pins, panel clips, weather stripping, trim adhesive, molding tape, window guides, nuts and bolts etc...
Now thats retail price and don't include what I can reuse. I get about a 30% discount compared to retail prices, and the buffing compounds and bonnets will last for more then one car.
By the time a shop pays for the overhead they make less then $1000 per car in pure profit.
That's why I say it's better to find someone like me
I have no overhead. And only my hands touch the car from start to finish. (except polishing. I contract it to a friend) I'm slower then a large body shop, but the quality and price will beat them every time
You get what you pay for. We charged $10,000 + materials once for a '70 C3, black inside & out. We used the PPG Global system on the car.
The owner had taken a big wheel with 42 grit paper to remove the paint off of the whole car before we worked on it. He ground do much fibreglass off we had to patch paper thin areas all throughout the car. We applied a skim coat of filler, then leveled the panels, then went over than with FeatherFill and blocked that down with a guide coat until it was perfectly smooth.
All of this prepping process was done by hand with a set of blocks, including a strip of pine & some shortened paint sticks. We earned every penny of the hourly minimum wage we earned on that car.

Took us 8-10 months of weekends and holidays before it was finally presentable to the spray gun.
You get what you pay for. We charged $10,000 + materials once for a '70 C3, black inside & out. We used the PPG Global system on the car.
The owner had taken a big wheel with 42 grit paper to remove the paint off of the whole car before we worked on it. He ground do much fibreglass off we had to patch paper thin areas all throughout the car. We applied a skim coat of filler, then leveled the panels, then went over than with FeatherFill and blocked that down with a guide coat until it was perfectly smooth.
All of this prepping process was done by hand with a set of blocks, including a strip of pine & some shortened paint sticks. We earned every penny of the hourly minimum wage we earned on that car.

Took us 8-10 months of weekends and holidays before it was finally presentable to the spray gun.
I had one like that once except it was a 68 and the owner used a combo of scrape razors, drill powered wire brush, steel wool and paint stripper. Nothing but a nightmare. It had huge chunks of fiberglass removed from the scrap razor, Deep scratches from the wire brush and little pieces of steel wool stuck in the fiberglass everywhere. I ended up buying a special gun to spray a thick polyester fiberglass resin over the whole car to sand level before spraying a gel coat.
It took me 4 months to finish and cost about $1500 of my own money where I under bid the job.
People do dumb things to save a buck. Ive seen everything from kerosene used as paint stripper to nail guns used to install side skirts.
Now, I turn down all customers that want to do their own body work.
rethane basecoat bc/cc (1K & 2K) :Waterborne basecoat bc/cc (1K only)
:Acrylic Urethane single stage (2K only)
:Acrylic enamel Single stage (1k & 2K)
:Synthetic enamel Single stage (1K & 2K )
:Acrylic lacquer single stage (1K)
And only a types of clear coat
rethane.:Polyurethane.
:Acrylic Enamel
:Synthetic Enamel (rare)
:Acrylic Lacquer
They are just "U"'s.
When the paint has its final cut/polish sands it gets its mirror shine. But if the paint continues to cure, the base shrinks which pulls the surface tension back, expanding it. This causes a minor fog like look in the paint if viewed at the right angle.
If this is the case, you just need some more buffing/cutting in the area. My guy asked I come back after a few weeks just for this reason. He rebuffed the whole car twice (2 different grits), even though only a few spots of die back were detectable (I didn't see them until he pointed them out to me and then I could only make out one of them).
When the paint has its final cut/polish sands it gets its mirror shine. But if the paint continues to cure, the base shrinks which pulls the surface tension back, expanding it. This causes a minor fog like look in the paint if viewed at the right angle.
If this is the case, you just need some more buffing/cutting in the area. My guy asked I come back after a few weeks just for this reason. He rebuffed the whole car twice (2 different grits), even though only a few spots of die back were detectable (I didn't see them until he pointed them out to me and then I could only make out one of them).
I'm actually RELIEVED when my car gets its first ding or scratch so I can put to rest my parking lot paranoia.
I almost envy the good citizens of KY, only a few of whom drive cars with color-matching body panels.









