Anyone else sometimes HATE C4 designers!!! Replaced Brake Booster
#22
Burning Brakes
#23
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2010
Location: apartment 5A and Monk's Cafe
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 0
Received 53 Likes
on
21 Posts
I wanted to hurt the designer who thought it was a good idea to remove numerous screws and a body panel just to remove the battery. Come to think of it, I still want to hurt him.
#24
Melting Slicks
A short time after I got mine the wp/opti mess came up with a few other little thingys, but at that time I had no idea what to look for/do so off to the dealership it went. Now that I'm learning more about my car from both here and the FSM's...although I still think sometimes you have to be ASA certified to read and understand parts of it...I won't be so hesitant to tackle some repairs...unless of course it's the heater core...somebody else is doing that.
astepup said that
astepup said that
#25
Team Owner
Replaced the power brake booster on my '89 last week again.
I'll be very happy if it lasts for a while. Bought the car three years ago with 22K on the odometer. Pristen condition, but it sat in storage for about eight years. Replaced the OEM original brake booster about 10K miles later. That one lasted about six weeks and 5K miles. The next one lasted about fifteen months and 8K miles. I now am of the opinion that the replacement boosters were inferior knock-offs most likely made in China, or maybe Bangladesh or North Korea (who knows). The car has been sitting in the garage most of the time for the past three months.
The booster that went into my car last week is an OEM new replacement part. I'm hoping for some success and reliability.
I'll be very happy if it lasts for a while. Bought the car three years ago with 22K on the odometer. Pristen condition, but it sat in storage for about eight years. Replaced the OEM original brake booster about 10K miles later. That one lasted about six weeks and 5K miles. The next one lasted about fifteen months and 8K miles. I now am of the opinion that the replacement boosters were inferior knock-offs most likely made in China, or maybe Bangladesh or North Korea (who knows). The car has been sitting in the garage most of the time for the past three months.
The booster that went into my car last week is an OEM new replacement part. I'm hoping for some success and reliability.
#26
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Suwanee,Ga
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why, WHY, WHY!!!! are there so many size screws holding the fender wells together!!
Two different size Torx heads, two different sized six points,at least three misc screws??
Somebody VP at GM HAD to have had an idiot Son In Law in the fastener business?
TJM
#27
Melting Slicks
The mix of english and metric drives me up a wall.
Removing the Harmonic Balancer on an 85...engine in carThat's actually one the few I've noticed worked in my favor. I'm sure it wasn't on purpose, but that little bend in PS line is great.
Removing the Harmonic Balancer on an 85...engine in carThat's actually one the few I've noticed worked in my favor. I'm sure it wasn't on purpose, but that little bend in PS line is great.
#28
Drifting
Same in my '84. After measuring the clearances, that little loop in the tubing was a Godsend!!! Have to figure they had one designer who actually worked with his hands as well as his head!!
#29
Racer
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle / Tacoma area Washington
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
27 + years ago, I had to replace the fuel pump on my 73 350 Vette. Talk about slow going. I could only get about a 1/8 turn on the wrench at a time. Took me nearly 3 hours just to unbolt the damned thing. Almost as long to replace it.
#31
Drifting
Member Since: May 2010
Location: Gaithersburg MD A member since 2007 but then the computer crashed and then the car crash loss of memory X 2
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A short time after I got mine the wp/opti mess came up with a few other little thingys, but at that time I had no idea what to look for/do so off to the dealership it went. Now that I'm learning more about my car from both here and the FSM's...although I still think sometimes you have to be ASA certified to read and understand parts of it...I won't be so hesitant to tackle some repairs...unless of course it's the heater core...somebody else is doing that.
astepup said that
astepup said that
The heater core isn't bad just because the car is built around it. It's just a matter of time allocation and attention to detail. Marking all the 6different types of screws and taking good pics of before, during and after removing everything in the way. If you tackled the heater core your confidence level will go to the top.
I thought you guys from Iowa could do anything, at least that's the impression I got from hanging out with my EX GF from Carroll. Whenever she had any problems at any of her farms, Matt and Jim came running and didn't leave until the problem was fixed or corrected and they got paid of course.
"Larry" said that.
#35
Burning Brakes
The brake booster was definitely not a fun job, particularly the connection with the brake pedal. No argument there. What's worse is that the reason that had to replace the brake booster in the first place was because the studs holding the master cylinder were stripped when I replaced the MC. Rather than use lock-tite or nylon lined nuts, some bean counter decided that compressed nuts would be just fine for the MC, unless you ever needed to take one off without wrecking the threads.
#37
Burning Brakes
I thought I was going to have to call 911 and have them bring the jaws of life and cut my arm off, because there was no way I would let them cut up the vette. LOL
#38
Drifting
#39
Le Mans Master
I went through this when I had limited tools. I cussed and cursed trying to get the booster nuts under the dash.
An extension and wobble joint is an absolute must for getting to the firewall booster nuts under the dash. With this there is no problem getting them.
Also lay a towel over the opening of the carpet so you don't drop the nuts down behind it. If that happens the nut only goes down further as you try to pull the carpet to reach it.
It's also wise to remove the driver seat so you can lay flat instead of contorting yourself. Four fasteners and unplugging the harness and it's out.
So for anyone else who has yet to replace a booster the bottom line is this.
Remove the driver seat so you can lay flat.
Don't even attempt to unbolt the booster bolts under the dash unless you have some 3/8 drive extensions and a wobble (u-joint).
Do those two things and you won't struggle.
An extension and wobble joint is an absolute must for getting to the firewall booster nuts under the dash. With this there is no problem getting them.
Also lay a towel over the opening of the carpet so you don't drop the nuts down behind it. If that happens the nut only goes down further as you try to pull the carpet to reach it.
It's also wise to remove the driver seat so you can lay flat instead of contorting yourself. Four fasteners and unplugging the harness and it's out.
So for anyone else who has yet to replace a booster the bottom line is this.
Remove the driver seat so you can lay flat.
Don't even attempt to unbolt the booster bolts under the dash unless you have some 3/8 drive extensions and a wobble (u-joint).
Do those two things and you won't struggle.
#40
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Philadelphia Burbs
Posts: 8,174
Received 235 Likes
on
77 Posts
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06
They were pushing technology so hard ... the last true redesign had been 21 years past. They almost certainly tried to change too much at the same time ...
... that said, I still have't gotten up the courage to get McLellan to explain the battery location and access to me.
... that said, I still have't gotten up the courage to get McLellan to explain the battery location and access to me.
Last edited by j3studio; 01-19-2011 at 11:45 PM.