I have towed a car two years ago with my Silverado but not a C4. My question is this, does anyone have any experience putting a C4 on a Uhaul double axle tow behind trailer? Does the front of the car clear the ramps and front area where the car goes against the front of the trailer? I want to get this car home but its in Chicago and hate to wait until March to do so. The weather is just too unpredictable to get on a plane and drive back home east...I appreciate any feedback from anyone that has done this. Thanks John

 

Yep! Used that very hauler last month. Worked and towed just great loading and hauling a ZR-1 (wrecked).

P.

 

I trailered my C4 using the U-Haul trailer with no problems. I liked the straps that went over the front tires, held her down nicely. I would use it again if need be.

 

I like the front trailer straps that go over the front tires as well, I also borrowed a trailer strap to secure the back of the car as well. My friend has a strap that went over the back axle. Any problems with that black front plastic piece under the nose hitting the front of the trailer rail? Thanks again...John

 

I'm considering the same thing. I told the person buying my car I would take it to him, and after looking at prices for a one way rental to get home, i found out that wasn't the brightest thing I've ever done.

So I'm considering just putting it on a trailor and pulling it with my Dodge Ram. I have hauled different cars before like that and had no problems.

 

I used one this last weekend to tow my V8 fiero 200 miles to it's new owner. It sits as low as a C4 and I had no issues. I pulled it behind my 1989 F250 (460 EFI) and didn't even know it was back there. They tow great. I wouldn't hesitate to load my C4 on it.

 

 

There are (at least) 2 different types of 2 axle U-Haul trailers. The nose of a C4 will hit the front of the newer style but they fit just fine on the older style. The part of the trailer that will hit are the raised wheel stops. The good news is that you can actually take the stops off with just 2 bolts per side.

My guess is that people were driving cars off of the front of trailers and blaming U-Haul so they made the stops on the newer models higher.

 

I have not done this so can't help you out. There was some posts this summer about being concerned with protecting the car from road debris and crud. Some cautioned about using a car cover as they can flap and cause paint damage. Seems like someone advised using wide painter's tape across the front end and the mirrors.
I drove mine home to Michigan from North Carolina in December of 2009 and came through W Virginia, the PA Turnpike and the Ohio Turnpike with no problems. If you check the weather forecast you should be able to find a couple of good days to drive it. I know that we here in Michigan experience a "January thaw" each year for about a week or so.
Good luck and enjoy the adventure!
Several years ago I had to give my winter beater to a relative who was in dire straits and drove an 86 coupe all winter. My rear tires had a lot of tread on them and I had a heavy speaker box mounted under the hatch. I really had no problems that I can remember.

 

I've pulled my 89 Vette with the same trailer.
No problems. Trailer was light too...

 

It is easier to load the car if the trailer is the "dovetail" design where the rear of the trailer is tilted downward.

 

200 miles with an F250 w/460, hope you had your credit card with you for the gas bill.

Betcha passed everything but a gas station.

 

As far as checking weather forecasts, go to
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/ and over on the left side
you can enter any city and state and get a forecast.
I've found this very handy before long trip. Check
several spots along the way. Be sure to check any
passes along the way, which can take a little creativity
to figure out a town name at the high point.


Chuck

 

To avoid a steep angle of a trailer I have in the past placed ramps in front of the rear tires of my truck (trailer attached) then drive up them to elevate it, then drive car on to trailer.

Works well for low clearance vehicles.

 

Suggest taking some 2x6 or 2x8 planks, 2x4 &/or 4x4 blocks & a floor jack if you have one & some ratchet straps.

If there is interference when loading (incorrect ramp angle) jack up the front of the trailer @ the hitch, use the screw jack @ the front of the trailer or drive the rear wheels of the tow vehicle up on wood blocks.

The planks can be used on the loading ramps to change the approach angle if necessary. If you need to use this method strap the planks to the trailer ramps so they do not spit out.

The planks can also be used on the trailer to raise the vehicle in the event there is a clearance issue with something under the vehicle.

Luck with your venture.

 

I used one of those when my tranny went out. Pulled it with my GMC Envoy with a class 3 hitch from Tampa to Orlando. Not really a big enough truck, got the job done but did not exceed 55 MPH and stayed in the slow lane. No problems with the trailer itself.

 

You're getting into the weight range where a 3/4 ton truck or larger SUV is advisable. Most half-tons will pull it, but not comfortably, especially if you live in a mountainous area. It isn't just engine....the larger trucks are more robust all around.....braking, charging, cooling, frame, suspension, steering....you name it.

The trailer itself weighs 2200 lbs. Add on 3400 lbs of car, and you're now at 5600 lbs. I've towed one with both of my trucks....the F150 is working hard, the F250 isn't even breaking a sweat. I wouldn't try it with anything rated under 7000 lbs of towing. There are loooong steep hills out here.

GCWR - weight of loaded tow vehicle = what you can tow. Deduct 10% off the top if you live in a mountainous area.

 

One thing about U-Haul trailers is their condition. I have seen some with bald tires, the tie-down straps are worn and dirty and there is no way to tell what condition the brakes are in. Always try to get the best looking trailer with the best tires. Ask for new or undamaged tie-down straps. Doesn't hurt to bring your own.

If you go to a U-Haul franchise store, you may be told that your tow rig is unacceptable for their car trailers. That's usually based on the weight of the car you want to haul. Go to a self-storage place that has U-Haul trailers, and they may not say a word about what you are towing with.

The local U-Haul store here won't rent their car trailers if you say you want to haul a Corvette. That's the manager's opinion and is not the case at other stores or the self-storage places.

I tried to rent a car trailer from them a couple years ago and was told point-blank that a C4 wouldn't fit on the trailer and my 99 Silverado (Z71 ext cab and 5.3 motor) couldn't haul that weight even though I just wanted it for in-town hauling. The truck GCWR was 7900 lbs. The car and their new-design trailer would have been 5200 lbs. The guy went on to say that even if he felt the C4 would load on the trailer, I would have had to rent one of their 3/4 ton trucks or a box van.

So I bought my own trailer....

 

OK...so if the gross combined of the truck is 7900 lbs, and the loaded trailer is 5200, your truck would need to weigh less than 2700 lbs with occupants, luggage, and fuel or you will be overloaded. And even if it did, you'd be marginal in this example. Bigger truck or smaller trailer would be advisable.

 

The GCWR of my 1500 Dodge Ram is 12,500. The Ram's GVWR is 6400. So I have a weight of 6100 I can pull.

My 90 weighs in at 3,223, that leaves 2,877. for the trailer. (minus additional passengers and cargo)

This of course also depends on the Hitch class.

I have a 19 ft camper I pull with my Ram all the time, but I don't recall what it's weight is. My Ram has the 5.2 engine and at one time I had an 01 Durango with the 5.9.

Thing is the 5.2 and the 5.9 are rated the same in PU form, for pulling. But I will say this, the 5.9 pulled the thing like it wasn't back there and the 5.2 in my Ram, you know it's back there and on big hills it pulls hard.