1985 lock question
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Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Austin Texas
1985 lock question
I think this is a question common to all C4's but titled it "1985" in case there is something unique.
My question relates to the driver side door on my '85. The power lock moves the lock mechanism further than the key. Thus the key will not unlock the door if locked by the power lock but will if locked by the key. (The passenger side door works just fine,)
Does anyone have any suggestion how to solve this?
Thanks in advance!
John
My question relates to the driver side door on my '85. The power lock moves the lock mechanism further than the key. Thus the key will not unlock the door if locked by the power lock but will if locked by the key. (The passenger side door works just fine,)
Does anyone have any suggestion how to solve this?
Thanks in advance!
John
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Pennsylvania
There is a white plastic retention clip inside the door that holds the door lock linkage rod in place firmly. If the rod has come loose from the clip, the travel distance of the rod may be longer because of the electric motor pushing the rod harder and faster than you would by turning the lock mechanism manually with your key. If you remove the interior door panel, you can see the linkage rod and hold down clip right behind the metal inside door panel. There is an access area there for you to push the rod back into the white plastic clip. It's also possible that the electric lock actuator motor needs adjusted up or down as it may have become loose. It's right inside the door panel also and is very easy to see and get at. Good luck!
Last edited by FOURSPEEDVETTE; Jan 20, 2011 at 09:29 AM. Reason: typo
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From: Philadelphia Burbs
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St. Jude Donor '06
There is a white plastic retention clip inside the door that holds the door lock linkage rod in place firmly. If the rod has come loose from the clip, the travel distance of the rod may be longer because of the electric motor pushing the rod harder and faster than you would by turning the lock mechanism manually with your key. If you remove the interior door panel, you can see the linkage rod and hold down clip right behind the metal inside door panel. There is an access area there for you to push the rod back into the white plastic clip. It's also possible the the electric lock actuator motor needs adjusted up or down as it may have become loose. It's right inside the door panel also and is very easy to see and get at.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 557
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
There is a white plastic retention clip inside the door that holds the door lock linkage rod in place firmly. If the rod has come loose from the clip, the travel distance of the rod may be longer because of the electric motor pushing the rod harder and faster than you would by turning the lock mechanism manually with your key. If you remove the interior door panel, you can see the linkage rod and hold down clip right behind the metal inside door panel. There is an access area there for you to push the rod back into the white plastic clip. It's also possible the the electric lock actuator motor needs adjusted up or down as it may have become loose. It's right inside the door panel also and is very easy to see and get at. Good luck!
John
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 557
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Here's the wrap-up.
I've been using a work-around as I haven't had time to try the suggestion (too many other projects). But yesterday "something" caused me to wonder if I'd have the same problem with the original exterior key that came with the car (I'd been using a duplicate I had made at the local hardware store). To my surprise the original worked perfectly.
I compared the two keys and found the original was stamped "B" but the duplicate was stamped "H". Checked a catalog and found 1985 oval exterior blanks were stamped "B", "D" and "H"! So, having learned my lesson, I headed to a locksmith who had the "B' blank, got a duplicate and it worked perfectly!
There's still a mystery as the original square ignition key is stamped "E" and my catalog shows only "A" for 1985 but here both the original and the duplicate (ILCO P1098E B44) work fine.
Thanks a million for the responses.
John
I've been using a work-around as I haven't had time to try the suggestion (too many other projects). But yesterday "something" caused me to wonder if I'd have the same problem with the original exterior key that came with the car (I'd been using a duplicate I had made at the local hardware store). To my surprise the original worked perfectly.
I compared the two keys and found the original was stamped "B" but the duplicate was stamped "H". Checked a catalog and found 1985 oval exterior blanks were stamped "B", "D" and "H"! So, having learned my lesson, I headed to a locksmith who had the "B' blank, got a duplicate and it worked perfectly!
There's still a mystery as the original square ignition key is stamped "E" and my catalog shows only "A" for 1985 but here both the original and the duplicate (ILCO P1098E B44) work fine.
Thanks a million for the responses.
John
Last edited by AustinJohn; Feb 8, 2011 at 03:46 PM.
