Electrical woes.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
Electrical woes.
Ok here is a couple questions for the electrical guys on here. I have looked around and I haven't seen the exact answer I'm looking for. First off I was told the LT1 fans are negatively triggered. So does that mean I wire up a relay as usual then wire in the PCM trigger in the ground position of the relay? And 2ndly I am having the problem of the interior lights staying on. They will go off if the key is put in the run position but will come right back on after the car is turned in the off position. All the door switches move in and out fine and are not stuck. It was working fine before and all the sudden the lights won't go off. Also I was sitting in the car tinkering around for maybe 5 mins and all the sudden the interior lights shut off and it popped the fuse. (3rd fuse so far) Anyone know why the car would keep blowing fuses? On the 84'.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
Also another question for you guys, what is the item in the picture i attached. It's on the side coming into the fuel rail, not the return. I've also noticed in pictures it seems to only be on the 92-93 LT1 corvettes.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Fuses blow because of excess current. You need to measure the current that fuse is carrying.
Interior lights are controlled by the courtesy light timer which could be defective and not timing out. Another reason why it doesn't time out is due to one or more of the door switches not being open circuit with the doors shut. Check the door switches. That they move in and out doesn't mean squat!!!!!!!!!!!
Interior lights are controlled by the courtesy light timer which could be defective and not timing out. Another reason why it doesn't time out is due to one or more of the door switches not being open circuit with the doors shut. Check the door switches. That they move in and out doesn't mean squat!!!!!!!!!!!
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
Also when I put my fuse back in today I noticed when the fuse gets plugged in the horn tries to honk for a split second then when the fuse blows it does the same thing. So I unhooked my horns and the fuse doesn't blow, but when I turn the ignition off now the security on the telltale stays lit and the interior lights flash rapidly. What is going on with the lights?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
When I open the doors the lights stay on, when I turn the car to run the lights go out, when I turn the key off the interior lights flash like crazy/ non-stop. Is this the security module doing this to bring attention to the car like with the horn honking? (idk if the horns are honking as they are not plugged in right now, I haven't had a moment to see if the wires to the horns are getting 12v)
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 7
From: Chewelah Wa
The security does honk the horns...not sure about the lights (sounds like it, though) I would start there, or with the wires on your door lock cylinders, which run your security module. I think I could be more of a help with more info.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
Ok so the interior lights go off now, it was the timer under the dash on the passenger side. My security light stays on and my horns are getting constant 12v+. I believe the relay is probably stuck. Anyhow I was checking out the wiring to the horn and I saw this setup after I took the electrical tape off.... what do you guys think? There are 2 wires coming from the connector that comes from the main harness, one wire runs to the horn connector and the other to that resister looking thing... Anyone know what that is? Or if it's supposed to be there? If it is whats the purpose? My horns are terrible so i think they are shot.....
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 7
From: Chewelah Wa
That is the transient noise suppression capacitor for the horn circuit, shields the ECM from electrical "noise" when the horns are energized. A must have, I am sure. Clean that ground! (and all grounds, they are very important, especially on a plastic car).
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
So apparently now when the doors are closed the relay for the horn is energized and they get the 12v, when the doors are opened and the interior lights come on the relay stops being energized and I can use the horn like I usually would. I pulled the 10amp fuse for the theft system and that stopped the relay from being energized 24/7.... any ideas? I'm temped to just cut out the trigger wire for the relay from the theft module...
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
I'm hoping the anti-Theft won't give me any trouble while trying to start her for the first time. I see on here many pll have problems with their car starting and it hasn't been altered at all. I have been changing a lot of stuff in the car. Anyone have any idea? I would like the Alarm to still work but I don't want it to interfere with the cars operation as this will be a DD when I'm done.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 81
From: Finger Lakes Region, New York
Ok well I didn't get any responses from anyone so I just decided to just hack the horn trigger wire coming from the Anti-Theft. Horn works normal and doesn't come on when the door closes now. So far so good.