Starter Removal
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Lewis Center OH
Starter Removal
I have an 89 Vert automatic. I'm trying to replace the starter and it appears I have to drop the exhaust. Just looking for a little direction and advice. Don't want to pay a garage to replace. I have been able to get one cable removed and trying to get wrench on the second one, which is tight due to gas lines. Any advice would be great. Thanks.
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Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Merritt Ils Fl
Wonder why there are no responses. Maybe all the C4 guys are sleeping in this AM.
The gas lines you are referring to are really the transmission cooler lines.
Fuel lines are attached to the frame rail. The cooler lines can be flexed enough to get a socket on the starter bolts. The electrical cables can be unbolted with the starter in place or after it is free from the block. If necessary mark/tag every wire. They must go back to their original location. Getting the heavy starter out and back is a tiresome and tricky job but it can be done. You might consider a mini starter as a replacement, makes the job much easier.
The gas lines you are referring to are really the transmission cooler lines.
Fuel lines are attached to the frame rail. The cooler lines can be flexed enough to get a socket on the starter bolts. The electrical cables can be unbolted with the starter in place or after it is free from the block. If necessary mark/tag every wire. They must go back to their original location. Getting the heavy starter out and back is a tiresome and tricky job but it can be done. You might consider a mini starter as a replacement, makes the job much easier.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 169
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From: Lewis Center OH
So it'll come out without dropping the exhaust? Wow, doesn't seem possible. I'll give it a try. I'm guessing I'll need a long handle socket to get the starter loose as well. I beleive one bolt is on the bottom, I'll have to look for the other one. Thankls for the all the info. I'll keep you updated.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 169
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From: Lewis Center OH
Well I have an update. I got the old starter out with some prying and pulling. Bought a remanufactured at NAPA with a 3 year warranty for $115.00. Put it back in again with some prying and pulling. She fired right up!! Back on the road!! Thanks for the tips guys!!
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Le Mans Master
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the old rule on shims is that if it didnt have any, you probably wont need any. the other rule is, ' if if you need more than one thin shim, you need a different starter cause any thicker and the torque of the starter will cause it to flex to much'. back in the day they had a tool that would tell you if you needed a shim or not. havent heard much about it lately.
Last edited by oldalaskaman; Apr 17, 2011 at 05:51 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Lewis Center OH
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
the old rule on shims is that if it didnt have any, you probably wont need any. the other rule is, ' if if you need more than one thin shim, you need a different starter cause any thicker and the torque of the starter will cause it to flex to much'. back in the day they had a tool that would tell you if you needed a shim or not. havent heard much about it lately.
