Is a gear wrench just the kind with the regular wrench on one side and the round wrench on the other?

 

Is there a brand that's better than others? One with the most grips?

 

gear wrench is a brand name , most parts places sell a version of them, they are an open end wrench on one end and a ratcheting closed end on the other, they are good cause you dont have to pick the wrench up off the nut to get a new grip, very good for tight areas. They're a little spendy, but its money well spent. if you have rust under your seat, you may want to consider new weatherstripping also.

 

Harbor Freight has cheap sets. They have been good enough for anything I've used them for, and they aren't needed very often.

 

excellent

 

I'll find 'em and give 'em a try. I really hope I can find something that will work. These last few screws seem really rounded and stripped. Hopefully, there's enough left to get them off.

 

you're saying 'screw' but do you mean the nut thats on the stud comming out of the floor? if thats what your talking about and if they are rusted and rounded off bad, get a dremel and gently cut the side of the nut vertically, put a flat headed screw driver in the slot and work it back and forth. Make sure you've already soaked the nut with PB Blaster for 15-20 minutes.

 

Sorry, yes. I've actually been talking about the nut. Although, the stud seems pretty rusty as well. I think, at this point, my biggest fear is a stud breaking, which would mean a whole other headache. I guess that's why I didn't think about attempting to cut it yet. Do you think using a dremel would put the stud in danger?

I've never actually used a dremel. Do I need to buy a heavy duty one or will a basic one work? And which bit would I need?

 

those nuts should be stainless, get a small wire brush and clean them, use the PB Blaster, then use the right size wrench.

 

It doesn't seem like any wrench is the right size. My 14mm is slightly big, and my 12mm is too small. I was thinking of buying a 13mm tomorrow, but they seem so rounded at this point, I'm afraid of doing more harm than good. I still have to try the PB Blaster, though. I only had WD40 today, so if I do make another attempt, I'll do it with some PB Blaster

 

If Oldalaskaman's suggestion of cutting a slot in the bolt head doesn't work you may have no choice but to drill it out. This requires a straight shot into the bolt, so I don't know if it's practical for you...but to do this you drill a small guide hole IN THE VERY CENTER of the bolt head straight down through the bolt, then gradually increase the size of drill bits as you hollow out the bolt shaft. At some point when the walls of the bolt are thin enough it will release. Since the walls will be quite thin, it is essential that the pilot hole be carefully centered so as not to ruin the bolt hole threads.

I've done this a couple of times with success, but it's a nervous business and you have to have straight-on access to the bolt.

 

Unfortunately, the track is covering the top of the bolt, so I won't have straight-on access. I'm going to get some PB Blaster today and maybe a new, better gear wrench. If that doesn't work, I may give the dremel a try, or I may just have it taken in to have a professional do the work. Kinda sucks, though, to get so close and not be able to finish the job.

 

I do think that they are 13mm if you are trying to remove with a 14mm then you're going to end up doing more harm than good.

 

Yeah, I just hope I didn't do so much harm that the 13mm won't even work now. I'm a little worried. Between the 14mm, an adjustable, pliers, and vise grips, I did some damage. Fingers crossed, though...

 

Well I now know for sure that the nuts are DEFINITELY 13mm. I've got the brush, the PB Blaster, and the wrench. Here's hoping I didn't mess them up beyond all repair. Pray for me!!!!!

 

Gentlemen,

I have created fire!!!

Well, maybe not exactly, but the seat track replacement is complete! I was really worried at first b/c the "guaranteed" 13mm heavy duty 12 point wrench I bought didn't budge the nut. I was hesitant to even buy the thing b/c I'd read on here that a 12 point wrench can actually make a rounded nut even worse, but I really liked it in the store.

So what worked? The regular 13mm 6 point wrench that I went to the store to buy in the first place. I'm sure as hell glad I bought both. Tomorrow, I'm returning the one that failed.

The rounded nuts were certainly tough to turn, but I eventually got them. And luckily, with the manual track, I was able to use the socket wrench b/c a metal track was no longer in the way.

Oh, and PB Blaster...awesome!

Whew, I'm definitely gonna sleep well tonight. Victory!

Thanks for all your help everyone.

-Jason

 

You always know more five minutes after you do something than you do for twenty years before.

Here's some tips on your seat track removeal.

First those 'platic things' on the front ends of the seat rails. To remove them there is a plastic 'push pin' that is removed by gently pulling with a pair of pliers.

All the bolts that hold the seat are 13 mm. Use a socket with a long extension to loosen and remove them. After you loosen the front bolts, move the seat as far ahead as it will go to get at the back bolts.

Putting stuff back together. Don't tighten the bolts down right away. tighten them in sequence going around the four contact points. When you go to mount the seat itself, just start a bolt in one location then move the seat around to get number two lined up, then three and finally four.

Once all four are just started then tighten them in sequence.

The lower seat cushion can be a real buggar to get in. The secret is the front of the seat goes in first. Logic would dictate the back goes down first then push the front down...that don't work!!

The is a wire bail on the front of the seat bottom that must hook onto the seat rack in order to lock the cushion in place. This thing loves nothing better than to bend your fingernails back. The best way to avoid this put a piece of heavy string around the bail wire before you start to install the cushion.

Feed the string down through the seat frame, under the front of the seat and then once the cushion is in place you sit in the seat, reach down and pull on the string and that will help you snap the bail wire into place.

Hope that helps.

 

SUCCESS!