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Looks like I need to replace the door ajar switch (driver side). I've had all the familar problems, i.e. warning light on dash, radio not turning off when opening door, etc. I did use some WD40 and tried to pry the plunger out a bit. Right now all is well and the car is locked, PKE is working and no lights are on.
While researching for the switch, I saw one parts provider who offered a 'boot' of some sort. It looked like a rubber sleeve that fit on the end of the switch..?. Anyone familar with this and how does it work, purpose?
I've seen these from the factory, presumably it's to keep the connections dry in an obviously moisture-prone environment, and may also provide some protection from chafing on the edge of the window/regulator when lowered?
I've seen these from the factory, presumably it's to keep the connections dry in an obviously moisture-prone environment, and may also provide some protection from chafing on the edge of the window/regulator when lowered?
...thanks
I would hope it comes with some good instructions. Knowing the little area you have to work with, I can't imagine dealing with this.
Whats involved with replacing the switch? Im going to do mine next week because with the top off, the doors unlock on every bump I hit!
Where did you get your switch?
Whats involved with replacing the switch? Im going to do mine next week because with the top off, the doors unlock on every bump I hit!
Where did you get your switch?
....the actual replacment took me maybe 30 mintues, following the instructions in the FSM. I'm not a mechanic but it was pretty straight forward. Didn't have to remove the door panel. Take you time, no distractions and you should be fine. Save the beer for later.
You can find the switch at several auto parts on-line. AutoZone was ready to order it. Ended up getting it from the local Chevy dealer. Cost about $25.00
In my case, my driver door was also in need of new pins and bushings. This slight sag or droop was making the switch catch just under the strike pad on the door frame. (ouch) I didn't realize this would ruin any new switch unless I replaced the pins and bushings. You get the idea. Morro of the story....check for any sag in your door before you replace the switch.
....the actual replacment took me maybe 30 mintues, following the instructions in the FSM. I'm not a mechanic but it was pretty straight forward. Didn't have to remove the door panel. Take you time, no distractions and you should be fine. Save the beer for later.
You can find the switch at several auto parts on-line. AutoZone was ready to order it. Ended up getting it from the local Chevy dealer. Cost about $25.00
In my case, my driver door was also in need of new pins and bushings. This slight sag or droop was making the switch catch just under the strike pad on the door frame. (ouch) I didn't realize this would ruin any new switch unless I replaced the pins and bushings. You get the idea. Morro of the story....check for any sag in your door before you replace the switch.
Thanks!!! I saw them on ebay for $15 with shipping so maybe I will replace them both just so I dont have any problems... I tried pulling the striker pin out a bit but it didnt want to budge and I snapped the damn pin off... I glued it back on for now just so I can drive the car...
I pulled the pins out like you guys suggested and now everything works great with the top down!!! Just be careful not to pull too hard or it will break!
I'm pulling this thread out of the trash to add my experience for this problem...
I replaced both switches. Same thing, flashing lights, door ajar, clicking locks. Took the door panel off 4 times to unplug, try new, old etc. Well guess what was causing the glitch( I was dreading shops anf PKE brain)
The door striker was loose. It lets the door wiggle and come away from the frame just enough to close the switch. I spent 2 days on this, and the fix was 1 minute and free. Thank goodness. That about ruined the car for a few days. It's Miller time.